CLIMBING NEWS ARCHIVE 2000
a Naughty Boy down under Posted 29/12/2000
The route 'Whos a Naughty
Boy' was a long standing project of Gordan Putlney in Australia. Garth
Miller opened the route in 1998 and graded it 32/33(Aus) or 34/35(SA).
Gordon was apparantly upset and smashed the bolts, broke off holds and
put sun tan cream on the route! In 1999 the bolts were replaced and now
Nathan Hoette has given the 'modified' route a second ascent now at 33(Aus)
line up El Cap Posted 29/12/2000
Alex & Thomas Huber
have opened a new free route on El Cap in Yosemite, California, USA. The
German brothers opened 'Golden Gate' at grade 5.13b (30) with 18 pitches!
Several lines have now been freed on El Cap to date and it seems to be
the latest challenge in the valley.
Canadian 12 year
old doing 33 Posted 29/12/2000
A Canadian kid, Sean McColl
recently redpointed 'The Pulse' a 5.14a (33) His size of 5'3" makes must
also be noted.
gets its first 32 Posted 29/12/2000
The old project left of
'Acromax' has now been opened by Paul Brouard. The short bouldery route
goes at grade 32 and is called 'Aqualung', this is the hardest line at
Fernkloof. The sport routes at this crag now has 15 bolted routes from
24-32 at almost every grade excluding 30. There are plans to bolt 4-6 more
lines in this area from 18-31.
Petit & Stephanie Bodet in SA
Arnaud Petit & Stephanie
Bodet on a recent visit to South Africa visited Outshoorn and Rocklands
in the Cederberg. At Outshoorn Arnaud managed to onsight 'Short Circuit'
and said it was only 8a+ (31). Arnaud however has excellent endurance and
this is known to be an endurance route, so he was probibly well suited
to the route. He also onsighted 'El Nino' a 30. Stephanie repeated both
'Short Circuit' and 'El Nino', both on her second try.
At Rocklands, Cederberg Arnaud
repeated 'Pendragon' V11/8a, 'Baboon Master' V10/7c+, 'Sunset Arete' V9/7c
& 'Caroline' V9/7c. Stephanie also repeated 'Sunset Arete' and 'Caroline'.
You can find more information
on Outshoorn in our Route Guide Database.
Arnaud Petit on
Chris Sharma on a recent
trip to Ceuse in France again tried the extention to 'Biographie', Biographie
is 8c+ (35) without the extention! He reached a new highpoint since his
last attempt on the extention and was doing laps on 'Biographie' itself
but could not yet get the route. The extention could well make it
the hardest route in the world.
Canadian Sonnie Trotter repeated
'The Crew' 5.14b (34) and 'The 7pm TV Show' 5.14a (33) in Colorado.
New Routes at
The Restaurant Posted 17/10/2000
See the New Routes page
for more information. Alard Hufner, Mark Seuring, Tessa Little & Gustav
van Rensburg have been bolting a few new routes. Alard & Mark repeated
Gustav's 'Merci my Brother' 26 at The Coven and Gustav & Alard repeated
Mark's new 'Transmogrifier' also 26. Alard also flashed 'Tripolactic Fairytales'
27 while Gustav flashed 'Chunky Monkey' 27.
from Abroad Posted 14/10/2000
Dave Graham repeated Chris
Sharma's problem, 'The Mandala' V13 at The Buttermilks, California. Jared
Roth nabbed the third ascent. Paul Westwood from Australia repeated 'AmmaGamma'
in The Grampins, this is Klem Loskot's V13.
Activity in Natal
Franscis Vergunst has been
busy repeating a whole string of routes. At Delville Wood he repeated 'Siamang
Blues' a 30, in Kloof 'Phantom of the Opera' 28 at the Eroica Wall, 'Static
Patterns' 29 at the Lab. Back at Shongweni he fired 'Guarana' 29, 'Love
& Demons' 29 and 'Headology' 28 at The Magnetic Wall. He also opened
his project, the extention to 'Paragon' which he has named 'Cave Rave'
and graded 31. Steve Bradshaw in his visit to Natal repeated 'Barricade'
32 on his fourth go, onsighted 'Invertigo' 27/28 and repeated 'Phantom
of The Opera' 28 and 'Headology' also a 28.
Pushing 9a (36)
Francois Legrand gave 'Ghetto
Booty' at Mount Charlston, USA its first ascent grading it 8c+/9a (35/36).
Yuji Hirayama opened a new route in Italy called 'Underground' , at Pueblo
di Massone, Arco it is graded 8c+/9a (35/36), he also redpointed 'Noia'
another 8c+ (35).
Skiing down Everest
Davo Karnica from Slovenia
has managed to ski down Everest, non-stop. It took him about 6hrs to get
from the summit to basecamp.
Paul Brouard our top climber
who has just recently won the Praxis National Comp redpointed 'Bully for
Brontasaurus' a 29 at The Chosspile, Magaliesberg on his second try. He
also onsighted 'Glisade' at 27, this route was previously known as 'Slanted
Storm of Repeats Overseas
|USA - Dave Graham
||He completed his boulder
problem at Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. He named it 'Nothin
but Sunshine' and graded it V13/V14. He also put a grade of V13 to his
problem 'Chunk of Blitz' in New Hampshire and finally put a grade to his
route 'The Fly' at Rumney which he says is 5.14d (36). Dave also onsights
'Superpowers' a 5.14a (33) at The Fortress, Rifle, Colorado. This makes
him one of the few on a small but growing list of 5.14a (33) onsighters.
Yuji still holds the onsight record at 34.
|USA - David Marquess
||At only 13 David did the
second ascent of the sitstart to 'The Bloody Arete' a V11 at Ute Pass in
|USA - Francios le Grand
||Frenchman Francois repeated
'Ghetto Booty' a 5.14c (35) at Mnt Charlston.
|USA - Liv Sansoz
||Liv sends 'Hasta la Vista'
a 5.14b/c (34/35) also at Mnt Charlston. Liv and Francois both entered
into the Wasatch front bouldering comp, Liv winning and Francois coming
third in Men's with Sharma and Dave Graham beating him.
|USA - Big Wall
||Steve Schneider a few years
ago tried to free 'Lurking Fear' on El Capitan and suceeded but for a few
sections. Tommy Caldwell, Beth Rodden and Dean Potter managed to free the
route. There are two 5.13c (31) pitches.
||Sonnie Trotter redpoints
'The Titan' at Lion's Head, Eastern Canada at 5.14a (33). This is the first
route of its grade in Canada, she has also opened two other unrespeated
5.13d (32) routes.
||Michi Tresch repeated Fred
Nicole's problem 'Comme un Lointain Heuco' a V13 at Steingletcher on his
||Luca Zardini has climbed
what could be Italy's hardest route to date. He called it 'The Big Mother'
and is in Erto. The route goes at about F8c+/9a (35/36). Luca also repeated
'Mission Impossible' at Orpiere, France graded 8c (34) in only 1 day.
Greg Child Millenium Lecture
& Climbing Tour of SA
8 000-meter peaks, A5 big-walls
and 5.13 sport climbs are ALL part of Greg Child's climbing repertoire!
It's no wonder that many consider him to be the most accomplished all-round
climber in the world. (More information about Greg Child on http://mcsa.org.za/gregchild.html)
Great news is that Greg Child
- under the auspices of the MCSA - will present a nation-wide lecture tour
from end-October to November 2000. The different lectures will cover Himalayan
ascents as well as big wall and rock climbing. There will also be ample
time for members to meet and climb with Greg: a unique opportunity! The
tour is co-ordinated by Philip van der Spuy and the Cape Town Section (email@example.com)
Please see our Calendar
for dates or contact Philip directly.
TOP AMERICAN CLIMBERS
HELD HOSTAGE Posted 27/08/2000
Tommy Caldwell (22) &
Beth Rodden (20) and two others were recently held hostage by Islamic militants
in Krygyzstan. They were on a trip exploring new routes on the walls of
the Kara-su Valley. Rebels starting shooting at them while they were on
the face and forced them down.
In a bold move they managed
to push one of the armed guards off a cliff and hike 29 kilometres to freedom.
They are both back on home soil and unharmed.
YEAR OLD REDPOINTS 29, RESTAURANT FLASHES Posted
Arjan de Kock of de Doorns
recently redpointed 'Factor 15' a 29 in the Cederberg, this is possibly
the hardest redpoint for a 14 year old in SA.
Alard Hufner flashed 'Tripolactic
Fairytales' the classic 27 at The Restaurant while Paul Brouard onsighted
the tough 'Unlimited Power' 27 on the Acra wall.
Gustav van Rensburg flashed
'Chunky Monkey', 27 at The Theatre at The Restaurant, this crag also has
a few new routes presently being developed.
& BOVEN CRIME Posted 14/08/2000
Unfortunately there has
been another incident at the Wave Cave and one at Waterval Boven at the
Acra Wall where climbers have been mugged. Please take care in these areas.
For now if you want to climb at the Wave/Rasta Caves, Shongweni Dam you
must do so in the presence of a ranger. This ranger has to be booked at
least 24 hours before your intended visit (48 hours for Sundays). He will
be present at the venue from 8am to 5pm at the cost of R30. ie. If you
dont book a ranger, the crags are closed!! The booking party will pay the
ranger fee, and has the right to make
a pro-rata claim on other
Bookings can be cancelled
with 24 hours notice. (Sundays 48)
In order to make a booking
call the Duty Officer, Shongweni Resources Reserve on (031) 769-1283/6/7
Be prepared to supply your
name and postal address.
MOZAMBIQUE BIG WALLS
There will be a slide show
held on 23 August at 20h00 at the MCSA clubhouse in Waverly JHB on big
wall climbing. Alard Hufner & Mark Seuring spent some time in Mozambique
in July, they pioneered 2 routes up the 700m high east face of Mlema 3
and the 650m high "Dos Amigos Face" on the Rebawe Mountain. They spent
four days opening "African Light" 22 A1 mostly going free with 14 pitches,
2 tention traverses & a pendulum. 2.5 days were spent on "Delayed Gratification"
22 A1+ with 18 pitches.
CLIMBING ABROAD Posted
Jason Campbell opened 'Gut
Buster', a 5.14c (35) in the US.
DUNCAN ELLIOT Posted
Duncan Elliott was killed
in an avalanche while attempting the north face of Mount Huascaran (22,205
feet) in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru. Exact details of the accident are
not known at this time.
FUEL Posted 08/07/2000
Ralph Brucher has opened
'Fossil Fuel' at The Chosspile. It was an old project of Peter Lazarus.
Ralph did the route without the drilled pocket and thinks it a full grade
harder than 'Stormwatch' a 31 at Fernkloof putting Fossil Fuel at a solid
POSSIBLE 37 OPENED IN
THE UK ? Posted 24/07/2000
Steve McClure has opened
up an old abandoned project of Ben Moon at Kilnsey Crag in the UK. The
route is though by Moon and Malcom Smith to be 9a+ (37).
SPIDERS CLIMBING GYM
A while back the Spiders
gym in Arcadia, Pretoria closed down but we hear that it has now been reopened.
HARDEST ROUTE BY A WOMAN
Josune Bereciartu does it
again! She has become the first woman to climb 8c+ (35), this after having
repeated two 8c (34) routes already. She joined 'Magic Eye' and 'Honky
Tonky', both 8c to do the route called 'Honky Mix' in Spain.
DUNNE OPENS UP NEW E10, 7a ROUTE Posted
John Dunne has put up a
line on the Tophet Wall in the Lake District, its graded E10, 7a (+/- 34).
I SCREAM GETS A REPEAT
The long standing testpiece
of Boone Speed at American Foek has been repeated by Jared Roth an 18 year
old American. The route goes at 5.14c (35) and is said to have a V12 crux
ROUTES BEING FREED &
SOLOED IN YOSEMITE Posted 20/06/2000
Tommy Caldwell and Beth
Rodden teamed up to free 'Lurking Fear', a 22 pitch route up El Cap. Twp
pitches went at 5.13c (31). Hans Florine rope soloed both 'Lurking Fear'
and 'The West Face' of El Cap in 21 hours!
HARDEST LINE IN AUSTRALIA
Garth Miller from Australia
has opened a new route called "GREY AREA" at grade 33 Australian (SA 35).
The line is at Diamond Falls in the Blue Mountains and will be the hardest
line in Australia.
YOUNG TALENT AND V14 IN
THE UK Posted 13/06/2000
Tori Allen, a small twelve
year old girl has onsighted "Harvest" at Red River Gorge, this is a 5.13a
(29). She also came second in the ASCF Difficulty Nationals in the States
being beaten only by Tiffany Campbell.
Thomas Willenberg added a
sit start to "Brad Pit" in Stanage. This makes the boulder problem a V14
and probibly the hardest in the UK. While there he opened a new problem,
"Mercy" at V12.
WORLD'S HARDEST ROUTES
"Action Direct", the first
9a (36) was opened in 1991 and has just been repeated by Iker Pou a spaniard.
This is its third repeat after Alexander Adler did the second ascent in
1995. The route was opened by Wolfgang Gulich. Three other 36s have been
done this year so far, "Kryptonite" a 5.14d (36) in the States by Tommy
Caldwell and "Elfe" 9a (36) was repeated by Klem Loskot and Im "Reich des
Shogun" a 9a by Eric Talmadge. Below is a list of all known 36s,
some could be harder than 9a.
- Action Direct 9a (36) in
Germany - Wolfgang Gulich 1991
- Bain de Sang 9a (36) -
Fred Nicole 1993
- Big Bang 9a (36) - Neil
- Elfe 9a (36) in Switzerland
- Fred Nicole 1997
- Hantillo 9a (36) - Klem
- Im Reich des Shogun 9a
(36) - Eric Talmadge 2000
- Intermezzo 9a (36) - Klem
- Kryptonite 5.14d (36)
USA - Tommy Caldwell 1999
- Mutation (36) - Steve
- Open Air 9a (36) - Alexander
- Vakuumgeist 9a (36) -
Klem Loskott 1998
In South Africa our hardest
route is still uncertain but could be the extention to "Barricade" called
"Thantos" opened by Paul Brouard at the Wave Cave in Natal.
V14's and 5.14s Posted
On a recent trip to Australia
Fred Nicole did three V14 boulder problems in his two week holiday. He
repeated 'Cave Rave' and Ammagamma, the latter which he did in only a days
work, possibly the fastest repeat of a V14. Both these problems were opened
by Klem Loskot at the Grampians. Fred then continued to open his own V14
called 'Eve Reve'.
Yuji Hirayama from Japan
was in Italy recently and onsighted another 8b+ (33), the route was called
Thomas Vergunst did a quick
redpoint of 'Glass Menagerie' and 'Lawyers Guns and Money' both 27 at Fernkloof
in the Magaliesberg.
CLIMBING GYMS IN PRETORIA
A while ago Gift Acres climbing
wall closed with the Hikers Paradise shop closing and sadly now Spiders
gym has also closed. Only the Barn now remains in Pretoria and it seems
to be doing well. Spiders may reopen though - give them your support to
keep it open.
OVERSEAS NEWS Posted
Ben Moon, on a visit to
Utah in the States opened up 'Black Lung' a V13 in Joe's Valley. Steven
Jeffery then repeated it after having worked the project hundreds of times
before. Dave Graham opened a new route, 'Fly' a 5.14c/d (35/36) at Rumney
in the States.
SENSITIVE PARKING AT WATERVAL
BOVEN - WONDERLAND CRAG Posted 10/04/2000
The parking at the Wonderland
area is presently for free, thanks to the farmer who allows us to park
there. His dogs tend to follow climbers to the crag and the farmer has
lost two Jack Russels already. It is suspected that when the dogs wander
away someone picks them up.
Please chase the dogs away
when they try follow you, our access is at risk here. As we all know by
now the alternative is to get our cars broken into again!
HOT FLASHES FROM ABROAD
Chris Sharma puts up 'The
Mandla' a possible V13 at the Buttermilks, USA.
Tommy Caldwell flashes 'Hydrophobia'
a 33 at Mount Sant in Spain, the grade is apparantly a bit soft.
Chris Lindner opens up 'The
Annihilator' at grade 35 (5.14c) in Mt. Potasi, US.
In England at Burbage South
Neil Bentley has opened what could be the hardest trad route. He called
it 'Equilibrium' and graded it 34! (E10 7a).
LOCAL HOT FLASH NEWS
Clinton Martinengo from
Cape Town has aopen 'Be Quick or be Dead' a 31 on trad! He also opened
'Wings of Glory' a 29. Also in Cape Town Jonathan Wamsteker picked up an
ascent of 'The Scenic Route' a 28 at The Mine.
Mark Seuring and Craig Reed
both redpointed 'Faberge' the classic 28 at Fernkloof.
News archives for 2002
News archives for 2001
News archives for 2000
News archives for 1998/1999
Back to Top * Back to Home Page
Copyright 2004 SACIN
Send news, corrections, new routes, adverts etc. to firstname.lastname@example.org
Please read our Disclaimer