The soft parade (15)
The meeting place at the upper end of Cedarberg is an alcove formed by two rock walls meeting at a right-angle.
1. The first pitch (10m, 10) starts on the extreme left (downstream) corner of the left hand wall, & follows the easy scramble usually ascended to place top-ropes on other routes, stancing on the half-height ledge at the top of Riders on the Storm.
2. The second pitch (10m, 15) moves right onto the on-angle face left of the second pitch of Strange Days, and follows the polished, right-leaning water-grove to the top. The second pitch requires contortion and supplety unusal for the grade.
7 January 2001, M. Pienaar, D. Morgan.
Jam and Toast (15m, 14)
Near the upper meeting place, left of ???? the descent gully is formed by the main side of the kloof, and a broken butress. Start on the stream-ward (down-hill) face of the butress, and take the left-most hand crack (i.e. just left of Gorillas in the Mist); on the ledge at half height, move right, and ascend the narrowing offf-width.
2000, M. Pienaar, D. Morgan.
The overhanging jam-crack, just to the left of "Kulu", at the upper meeting spot in Cedarberg. Grade and name unknown, except that it is "very hard". This may be the same as the inadequately described route "The Crack" (this crack appears rather harsh for a grade of 20)
Steve Newman, Geofery Cummins.
I believe in Father Christmas (a.k.a. Away in a Danger) (25m, 15)
Mooning Miss V (V9/7c)
This boulder problem can be found on the Animal House Boulder at the Barnyard Boulders.
Line Dancer (13) Dylan Morgan, Route on the Amorph Boulder near the Spearhead Boulder.
Drie Hoek Kerrie Koolie Koek (12) Dylan Morgan, Route on the Amorph Boulder near the Spearhead Boulder.
Hip 2 B Square (15) Graeme King, Route on the Amorph Boulder near the Spearhead Boulder.
Fish Food (14) Access route up the Shark Tank Boulder near the Whale Rock Boulders.
Skiff (15) A pockety route by Clara Hoyberg on the Dolphin Boulder.
Squid (13) Another route by Clara on the Dolphin Boulder.
Konrad the Killer Kipper (13) by Marianne Pretorius on the Maxi Minnow Boulder.
Gilbert the Gay Guppie (11) by Marianne Pretorius on the Maxi Minnow Boulder.
Kite Rescue (A1) An aid route by Dylan Morgan on The Kite Boulder.
The Blown Fuse (19,19,10, 18, 12) An access route up the main face of the mountain. Well lead out in places!
The Last Crag of the
Century (Railway Lines)
These lines are mostly 35-40m long!
Electric Avenue (17) Glenn Harisson
Extention to Above (23) Glenn Harisson
Superfly (23) Glenn Harisson
Fudge Beats Burfee (25) Gustav van Rensburg
Trippin' on Life Project
Acra Wall (The
Urisk the Rustic Brownie (22/23) Gustav van Rensburg
The line closest to the waterfall, awesome position!
Hey Pappa (22) Albert Smit
Captain Hook (18) Tim Wilmot, Greg Devine & Darryl Margetts on Natural gear. Retrobolted by Tim Wilmot, Darryl Margetts, G.Frost and D. Chesney
Butterfly Snowstorm (15) On Trad : Dave Chesney, Darryl Margetts, Greg Devine & Tim Wilmot. Retrobolted by G Frost & Darryl Margetts
North Ridge of Slanghoek
1. 25m F2. Good climbing on excellent vertical rock to the platform above.
2. 20m F3. Directly up with a small traverse right, on the crest.
3-7 150m D/E. Interesting climbing all on good rock with excellent situations.
8 45m F1. Climb the clean wall on the right.
9 25m F2. Head directly up to the top.
From the summit of the needle head south to a position above the prominent high nek which joins the needle to the main massif. Scramble and rappel into the nek and from there head directly down to rejoin the saddle below.
David Davies and Hilton Davies, 29 March 1998.
Chapman's Left Edge
The crag is the spectacular one above the road that leads from Hout Bay to Noordhoek. Park at the appropriate siding on Chapman's Peak Pass. Walk and scramble up a steep gorge which leads to the base of the lefthand edge of the crag. This route heads up the good white rock on the left of the face and then to the centre of the headwall in a dramatic situation.
1-6. 250m D/E. Climb the
wall which leads continually rightwards.
7. 50m F2. Stance in the centre of the main amphitheatre and head directly up the centre of the headwall. At the roof head out to the right, then up to the top.
From the top head left to the top of the mountain. Descend the north-east side facing Hout Bay, on a good path. At a big junction take a left turn to walk back down to the road.
David Davies and Hilton Davies, Christmas 1996.
Park at the top of the exceedingly steep Blue Valley Avenue which leads up through the Bokkemanskloof housing estate. Find the path to the left of the end of the road. Head up to the prominent buttress up on the left.
F2. Good climbing on excellent vertical rock to the platform above.
2. 20m F2. Directly up.
3. 100m D/E. scramble directly up on good rock.
4. 40m F2. Climb up the middle of the headwall .
From the top walk down the valley on either side of the ridge.
Eric Maguire, David Davies and Hilton Davies, 5 July 1997.
BUSHMANSKLOOF NATURE RESERVE, CEDERBERG
The crag is on the south side of the valley approximately 2 kilometres upstream from the Bushmanskloof Lodge where the track crosses the stream. A short walk up the gully to the right of the crag leads one to a set of ladders that ascend the wall. To the left of the ladders is a steep, clean wall. The route heads up the prominent crack system up the middle of this wall.
20m. Starting in a chimney
climb up and left to the first bolt. Follow the obvious crack system to
the top using lay-aways, hand-jams and the occasional hold.
The rock is very clean and solid.
GINGER is a really attractive route for its grade.
"Ginger" is named in memory of Townley "Ginger" Johnson, with whom David first visited Boontjieskloof (now part of Bushmanskloof) in 1974. Ginger was instrumental in developing David's love for Bushman rock art, which later lead him into hiking, then rock climbing, and then a 20 year career of world-class expeditionary mountaineering around the world.
David Davies, Hilton Davies and Mark van Niekerk, 21 November 1998.
The crag is the imposing one on the south side of the valley. Park at the appropriate siding on Bainskloof Pass and descend to the river. A long walk up to the base of the crag leads one into a nice cave.
This route heads up the prominent stepped white pillar to the left of the crag.
1. 20m E. Excellent
climbing on vertical rock to the platform above.
2. 20m E. Directly up.
3. 20m F. Climb directly up on good rock.
4. 25m F. Climb the attractive white headwall .
From the top of the pillar scramble down the back to a platform. Rappel to the gorge below, and head straight down it.
Alan Ross, David Davies and Hilton Davies, 22 February 1997.
This route heads up the arête 30m to the right of the cave.
1. 30m F3. Climb
the wall that faces onto the ledge at cave level. Head slightly right and
up to a stance.
2. 25m F3. Up and right.
3. 30m F3. Climb up to the roof and head out right in an airy situation. On the crest head up over the bulge above angling left. A really fine pitch in a spectacular position.
4. 100m Scramble D/E. Directly up to the summit.
From the top head left over the top of the mountain. Descend the east side to gain a descent gorge. Continue down, and keep taking the options leftwards (facing down). Make one rappel. At the base of the cliffs turn left to regain the cave or head down to the river.
Alan Ross, David Davies and Hilton Davies, 23 February 1997.
From the parking areas walk to the top of the amphitheatre up on the left. Before reaching the end of the fence, scramble down angling right and then walk around the corner to the left. Continue around on a narrow ledge to an abseil point (2 pitons). Do a 40 m abseil straight down to a small ledge, out of sight and just above the big overhang at the base of the crag.
Rudd's Route (Grade
22, 40 metres)
From the ledge climb up and right and then back left above the small roof to a piton. With some delicate face moves continue directly up, eventually joining the edge of the arete. Climb the arete to finish 5m left of the abseil pitons.
FA: David and Hilton Davies, 19/07/1998
Crystal Arete (Grade
22, 40 metres)
Same access as for Rudd's Route except do a 40m abseil angling off towards the main amphitheatre to gain a ledge below a series of steps and just above the big overhang at the base of the crag.
1 17, 20m. Climb
directly up to gain a small ledge at the start of the prominent arete.
2 19, 30m. Head up to the piton then right and up the arete. The arete is made up of millions of little crystal formations. Continue directly up the arete to a ledge. From the ledge descend easy ground to the left to regain the abseil piont.
FA: David and Hilton Davies, 19/07/1998
The Gem (Grade 22,
Same access as for Crytal Arete. The abseil point is on the same ledge as Crystal Arete. This ledge is on the same level as the main pillar seen from the car park. The waterfall is just to the right looking down. Use a nut and a Friend for the abseil point. Remember to tie a knot at the end of the rope as one stops at the top of the overhang - 45 m.
Abseil down to a small ledge above the big base overhang. You have to place a few nuts to keep yourself in. Climb up to a small roof to a piton. Move left and up the corner (crux). Climb the arete for 10m. Well protected - a real gem!
FA: David and Hilton Davies,
Start at diagonal rightward
crack below a jammed block, 3m left of the cave/ corner.
1. (14) 40m Climb diagonal right crack and then up for 30m, move left and up to a stance above and left of a sloppy ledge just left of a tree.
2. (20) 18m Move up recess and pull through overhangs and then diagonally left to a hanging stance at a vertical slot under a roof.
3. (21) 20m Balance rightwards then up, round corner and up a finger crack. Move up an overhanging groove and then a rightward tending lay away crack to a stance on the right.
4. (19) 50m Move right and up to an orange rock aiming for a small groove. Pull through groove and move up rightward onto face. Continue till able to pull through to a stance.
5. (14) 30m Groove up the groove to a stance. Scramble to the top.
Head right ( approx. south ) to a saddle and then down slope to a rocky ravine, head down ravine and then traverse back to start of climb.