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Shongweni, Wave Cave
Eros (33) Paul Brouard. This is an extention to 'Sip and Fly' with another 12 power endurance moves through the roof, feet cutting stuff! 03/07/2001

Restaurant, The Other Side
Uriel's Machine (13) Trad (no bolts, feel free to add)
The pillar and the main wall form a WIDE chimney (between SPOOKS IN THE CLOSET & YUDUVUDU). Two thirds up the chimney is a large chockstone.
Directly beneath the chockstone (on the left-hand wall of the chimney) is a zig-zag crack. Layback up this crack to the chockstone, passing it on the right-hand side. Above the chockstone continue straight up or veer left and exit onto a ledge.
Variation: Climb the route as a chimney - somewhat easier.
First Ascent: E van der Poel & H Steinmann,  July 2001
Toilet Brush (11) Opened on trad gear (no bolts, feel free to add)
Two meters to the right of and on the same face of the chimney as URIEL'S MACHINE. Starts directly beneath a small overhang five meters up. Climb the
chimney and aim for the clump of grass visible against the skyline directly above. Excellent chimney climbing - could be challenging for tall people.
First Ascent: E van der Poel & H Steinmann,  July 2001
Note: A toilet brush was used to clean both UM and TB and its name is no reflection on how one climbs the route.

Leliehoek, LadyBrand
This is a new crag in the Leliehoek campsite in Ladybrand just outside Maseru. A very bnice setting with easy access to several boulders and crags.
I'll tell you, but you won't believe me (21) Tim, 01/07/2001. 6D,A, this is on the left most side of the first obvious boulder on the left, 100m right of the toilets.
The stiff 21 (24) Joffrey Hyman, 01/07/2001 6D,A. This one is just right of the above route, shares its anchors.
New route (19/20) Paul, 01/07/2001 6D,A. This one is on the spear shaped boulder right of the big fireplace, still waiting for a name.
Project (22/23) Project, 6D,A. A Thin route still in progress.

A Will to Cower (30) Paul Brouard. This is the old project to the left of 'The Glass Menagerie' and has 9 bolts including chains. 16/06/2001
Mirror Mirror (26) This route has been retrobolted by Joffrey Hyman and Paul Brouard, 9 bolts incl chains. FA: Kevin Smith 1986 on trad.

Waterval Boven, Last Crag of the  Century
Caffeine Jitters  (13) Gustav Janse van Rensburg and Chris Jansen, June 2001
Pitch 1: 13   18m Scramble up the bushy slab just right of 'As the world Dissapears' and head for the two protruding trees.
Pitch 2: 13   15m Climb the awesome fist sized crack to the top.
To crack or not to crack (20) N. Gustav Janse van Rensburg and Chris Jansen, June 2001
Pitch 1: 20 20m Start on the corner below the obvious layback crack left of 'Who's Your Daddy'. Climb out underneath the undercut flake using RP's and up to the obvious ledge.
Pitch 2: 14 12m Climb cracks straight to the top on good pro.

One for the Road (19) Victor Rundle and Dylan Morgan. This is on the Kite Boulder at 'The boot Up' area. 

Watersports (20) Alard Hufner, Voitec Modrzewski and Marianne Pretorius
A well protected 5 star 20 which goes just right of 'South West Wall Route' . Descend off abb bolts at the top of pitch three.
Fig Arch (17) , A cup of tea and 2 chimneys (18) Both Opened solo by Alard Hufner.
These two routes / chimneys are located on the Klipdachswand between 'Rhino Horn' and 'Open Ocean' and are both 2 or 3 pitches long.
5,4,3 (16) Mark Seuring, Alard Hufner, Voitec Modrzewski.
The First pitch has 5 bolts in 50 metres the second pitch 4 and the third pitch 3 bolts! The route is the first on the 'Hippo' which is located left of the huge South West wall.

Waterval Boven
New routes in The Wonderland Area, all included in our online guide.
Strata (32) Just left of 'Tripolactic Fairytales'. Paul Brouard Apr 2001
Frazzle (31) The old project just left of 'Snapdragon'. Paul Brouard Jan 2000
Rat Pallace (21) D Margetts, G Frost, H Pringle on the 20/05/2001
Comfort Zone (20) D Margetts, G Frost, H Pringle, N McKenzie and A Grant on the 20/05/2001
5 Lives Left (19) Alard Hufner
Drop Kicked  by Alard Hufner
I just cant Bolt It (20) Alard Hufner & Mark van Wyk
Merci My Brother (26) Gustav van Rensburg, this is at The Coven.
Bolrog (24) Tessa Little
Transmogrifier (26) Mark Seuring

For new route info check our online guide.
Aqualung (32) Paul Brouard, the route directly left of Acromax.
The Looking Glass (24) has been retrobolted with permission, kind of stiff at 24 though more likely a 25!
Desperate Measures (22)
Trad route about 40m down stream from the top of the upper area. The route starts just left of massive overhangs (piton can be seen in small rail just below the overhangs)
1. 21 23m Start on a jammed block in the river, gain access to a big jug just to the left of a crack with a layback/dyno move, once you gain the crack, climb it to the overhangs above and move left out to recess with two cracks, climb the left crack to a ledge with a tree on it.
2. 15 15m Climb the finger crack on the right hand side of the ledge, follow the crack to an awkward move involving a handjam, this takes you into a chimney with a big triangular block above it, climb out of this to a larger sloping ledg3. 22 40m Above the triangular block is a jam crack that break through the slightly overhanging wall almost to the top, climb this till the crack disappears following as straight line to the top as possible.
The protection is great all the way through this route, many nuts are very handy for the last pitch.
First Ascent: December 2000 - Robert Powell and Deon Grobelaar

Magaliesberg, Boulder Kloof
An Alternative Start to Slipstream
Starting off the top of the block 3 metres right of the original, corner start to 'Slipstream', below the blunt arete.
1.    18 8m Using the lay-away crack to the right of the arete, get established on the arete.  Then proceed on the left-hand side of the arete, to join the original line on the blocky ledge.  Good gear in rails. Fun. The overall grade of the route remains unchanged when using this start.
First Ascent : Russ Dodding and Heather Murch, 1 April 2001

Magaliesberg, Cedarberg
The soft parade (15)
The meeting place at the upper end of Cedarberg is an alcove formed by two rock walls meeting at a right-angle.
1.   The first pitch (10m, 10) starts on the extreme left (downstream) corner of the left hand wall, & follows the easy scramble usually ascended to place top-ropes on other routes, stancing on the half-height ledge at the top of Riders on the Storm.
2.   The second pitch (10m, 15) moves right onto the on-angle face left of the second pitch of Strange Days, and follows the polished, right-leaning water-grove to the top. The second pitch requires contortion and supplety unusal for the grade.
First Ascent:
7 January 2001, M. Pienaar, D. Morgan.
Jam and Toast (15m, 14)
Near the upper meeting place, left of ???? the descent gully is formed by the main side of the kloof, and a broken butress. Start on the stream-ward (down-hill) face of the butress, and take the left-most hand crack (i.e. just left of Gorillas in the Mist); on the ledge at half height, move right, and ascend the narrowing offf-width.
First Ascent:
2000, M. Pienaar, D. Morgan.
Unknown (20)
The overhanging jam-crack, just to the left of "Kulu", at the upper meeting spot in Cedarberg. Grade and name unknown, except that it is "very hard". This may be the same as the inadequately described route "The Crack" (this crack appears rather harsh for a grade of 20)
First Ascent:
Steve Newman, Geofery Cummins.

Magaliesberg, Hammerkop Kloof
I believe in Father Christmas (a.k.a. Away in a Danger) (25m, 15)

On the true left, at the tweflth pipe above the pipe ramp, there is a square buttress, with a 3m free-standing pinnacle at its foot. "Jungle Rock" takes the upstream side of this buttress. Start 3m downstream of the downstream side of the butress, in the middle of an intimidating slab. Move up and right to attain the prominent crack, which is loosely followed onto a sloping, vegetated ledge. Move left until you are in line with the start, and climb easily up for 15m to a larger ledge.

Descent: Scramble to last few metres, and walk 150m down-stream to the cairn, which indicates the descent ramp. The climbing is pleasant, but run-out in places.
First Ascent:
25 December 2000, D. Morgan, M. Pienaar, J.Levesley (aged 7&1/2) , H.Levesley.

See the online guide for more information on the routes listed.

Mooning Miss V (V9/7c) Paul Brouard
This boulder problem can be found on the Animal House Boulder at the Barnyard Boulders.
Line Dancer (13) Dylan Morgan, Route on the Amorph Boulder near the Spearhead Boulder.
Drie Hoek Kerrie Koolie Koek (12) Dylan Morgan, Route on the Amorph Boulder near the Spearhead Boulder.
Hip 2 B Square (15) Graeme King, Route on the Amorph Boulder near the Spearhead Boulder.
Fish Food (14) Access route up the Shark Tank Boulder near the Whale Rock Boulders.
Skiff (15) A pockety route by Clara Hoyberg on the Dolphin Boulder.
Squid (13) Another route by Clara on the Dolphin Boulder.
Konrad the Killer Kipper (13) by Marianne Pretorius on the Maxi Minnow Boulder.
Gilbert the Gay Guppie (11) by Marianne Pretorius on the Maxi Minnow Boulder.
Kite Rescue (A1) An aid route by Dylan Morgan on The Kite Boulder.
The Blown Fuse (19,19,10, 18, 12) An access route up the main face of the mountain.  Well lead out in places!

Cave Rave (31)  Francis Vergunst
This is an extention to 'Paragon'

Much new bolting has been done here, all included in our online guide.

The Last Crag of the Century (Railway Lines)
These lines are mostly 35-40m long!
Electric Avenue (17)  Glenn Harisson
Extention to Above (23)  Glenn Harisson
Superfly (23)  Glenn Harisson
Fudge Beats Burfee (25)  Gustav van Rensburg
Trippin' on Life  Project

Acra Wall (The Gorge Area)
Urisk the Rustic Brownie (22/23)  Gustav van Rensburg
The line closest to the waterfall, awesome position!

Hallucinogenic Wall (Wonderland Area)
Hey Pappa (22) Albert Smit
Captain Hook (18)  Tim Wilmot, Greg Devine & Darryl Margetts on Natural gear. Retrobolted by Tim Wilmot, Darryl Margetts, G.Frost and D. Chesney
Butterfly Snowstorm (15) On Trad : Dave Chesney, Darryl Margetts, Greg Devine & Tim Wilmot. Retrobolted by G Frost & Darryl Margetts

The crag is at the top of Winterbach Peak which is to the south of the Kromriver campsite. The walk up takes about one and a half hours.
Namby Pamby
This route is on the buttress which is one level below the headwall crag. It starts from a large fallen block and follows a prominent arête.
1.    50m Grade 17. Ascend the arête starting off from the large block. Climb the crack about 2m to the left of the corner. The last part of the climb follows a recess on the left.
Walk around the tower and down the back.
First Ascent:
David Davies and Hilton Davies, 15 June 1998.
Thin Blue Line
This route takes the plum line up the centre of the steep main face and ends close to the summit. Although only two pitches it has a big wall feel about it as the mountain is steep and the climbing is bold on natural gear.
1.   35m Grade 20. Climb the crack for 25m to a small roof. Traverse right for 5m then up and through another small roof to stance on a small ledge (hanging belay on wire nuts).
2.   20m Grade 22. Climb up the crack to the roof and head out left onto the overhanging wall. Climb the headwall to the top angling leftwards.
A series of narrow gorges marked by cairns leads one down without abseils.
First Ascent:
David Davies and Hilton Davies, 15 June 1998.

Telephone the farmer Mortimer Lee ahead of time. Park at the farm Bre?land at the head of the Slanghoek valley. From the farmhouse walk up the jeep track for a kilometre to the intersection with the riverbed coming down from the mountains on the left. Head up this watercourse for about two hours to a junction with a gorge coming down from the left. Head up this gorge for about an hour, to a fine saddle with two pinnacles on the valley-side. From this saddle traverse left, angling slightly upwards, to gain the impressive ridge that leads to the summit of the needle towering above.

North Ridge of Slanghoek Needle
1.   25m F2. Good climbing on excellent vertical rock to the platform above.
2.   20m F3. Directly up with a small traverse right, on the crest.
3-7 150m D/E. Interesting climbing all on good rock with excellent        situations.
8    45m F1. Climb the clean wall on the right.
9    25m F2. Head directly up to the top.

From the summit of the needle head south to a position above the prominent high nek which joins the needle to the main massif. Scramble and rappel into the nek and from there head directly down to rejoin the saddle below.

First Ascent:
David Davies and Hilton Davies, 29 March 1998.


Chapman's Left Edge
The crag is the spectacular one above the road that leads from Hout Bay to Noordhoek. Park at the appropriate siding on Chapman's Peak Pass. Walk and scramble up a steep gorge which leads to the base of the lefthand edge of the crag. This route heads up the good white rock on the left of the face and then to the centre of the headwall in a dramatic situation.

1-6. 250m D/E. Climb the wall which leads continually rightwards.
7.    50m F2. Stance in the centre of the main amphitheatre and head directly up the centre of the headwall. At the roof head out to the right, then up to the top.

From the top head left to the top of the mountain. Descend the north-east side facing Hout Bay, on a good path. At a big junction take a left turn to walk back down to the road.

First Ascent:
David Davies and Hilton Davies, Christmas 1996.


Park at the top of the exceedingly steep Blue Valley Avenue which leads up through the Bokkemanskloof housing estate. Find the path to the left of the end of the road. Head up to the prominent buttress up on the left.

1.    25m F2. Good climbing on excellent vertical rock to the platform above.
2.    20m F2. Directly up.
3.    100m D/E. scramble directly up on good rock.
4.    40m F2. Climb up the middle of the headwall .

From the top walk down the valley on either side of the ridge.

First Ascent:
Eric Maguire, David Davies and Hilton Davies, 5 July 1997.


Ginger   17, 9B
The crag is on the south side of the valley approximately 2 kilometres upstream from the Bushmanskloof Lodge where the track crosses the stream. A short walk up the gully to the right of the crag leads one to a set of ladders that ascend the wall. To the left of the ladders is a steep, clean wall. The route heads up the prominent crack system up the middle of this wall.

20m. Starting in a chimney climb up and left to the first bolt. Follow the obvious crack system to the top using lay-aways, hand-jams and the occasional hold.
The rock is very clean and solid.
GINGER is a really attractive route for its grade.

"Ginger" is named in memory of Townley "Ginger" Johnson, with whom David first visited Boontjieskloof (now part of Bushmanskloof) in 1974. Ginger was instrumental in developing David's love for Bushman rock art, which later lead him into hiking, then rock climbing, and then a 20 year career of world-class expeditionary mountaineering around the world.

First Ascent:
David Davies, Hilton Davies and Mark van Niekerk, 21 November 1998.


The crag is the imposing one on the south side of the valley. Park at the appropriate siding on Bainskloof Pass and descend to the river. A long walk up to the base of the crag leads one into a nice cave.

Bains Steps
This route heads up the prominent stepped white pillar to the left of the crag.

1.   20m E. Excellent climbing on vertical rock to the platform above.
2.   20m E. Directly up.
3.   20m F. Climb directly up on good rock.
4.   25m F. Climb the attractive white headwall .

From the top of the pillar scramble down the back to a platform. Rappel to the gorge below, and head straight down it.

First Ascent:
Alan Ross, David Davies and Hilton Davies, 22 February 1997.

Bains Arête
This route heads up the arête 30m to the right of the cave.

1.   30m F3. Climb the wall that faces onto the ledge at cave level. Head slightly right and up to a stance.
2.   25m F3. Up and right.
3.   30m F3. Climb up to the roof and head out right in an airy situation. On the crest head up over the bulge above angling left. A really fine pitch in a spectacular position.
4.   100m Scramble D/E. Directly up to the summit.

From the top head left over the top of the mountain. Descend the east side to gain a descent gorge. Continue down, and keep taking the options leftwards (facing down). Make one rappel. At the base of the cliffs turn left to regain the cave or head down to the river.

First Ascent:
Alan Ross, David Davies and Hilton Davies, 23 February 1997.

Two new routes went up at The Restaurant, both 18 at the Wonderland area. See the online guides for more  information.

Swinburne also sees 2 new routes, a 20 and a 17 at the Whale Rock Boulders opened by Martin Bruning and Russ Dodding respectively. See the online guides for more information.

Swinburne is seeing some more development. On the Spearhead boulder Eric Rieman opened 'Speary' a 20 & Joffrey Hyman opened 'Bullseye' a 22. At the Whale Rock Boulders Joffrey also opened his project, a bouldery route called 'Swordfish' and it goes at about 29. Sean Cremen gave the line a quick repeat. Dylan Morgan opened 'Continental Margins' at 23 on the Pacific Ocean boulder and 'Tonga' a 21 on the same boulder. Some more bolting is on the go in this area. See the online guide for more details.


From the parking areas walk to the top of the amphitheatre up on the left. Before reaching the end of the fence, scramble down angling right and then walk around the corner to the left. Continue around on a narrow ledge to an abseil point (2 pitons). Do a 40 m abseil straight down to a small ledge, out of sight and just above the big overhang at the base of the crag.

Rudd's Route (Grade 22, 40 metres)
From the ledge climb up and right and then back left above the small roof to a piton. With some delicate face moves continue directly up, eventually joining the edge of the arete. Climb the arete to finish 5m left of the abseil pitons.

FA: David and Hilton Davies, 19/07/1998

Crystal Arete (Grade 22, 40 metres)
Same access as for Rudd's Route except do a 40m abseil angling off towards the main amphitheatre to gain a ledge below a series of steps and just above the big overhang at the base of the crag.

1   17, 20m. Climb directly up to gain a small ledge at the start of the prominent arete.
2   19, 30m.  Head up to the piton then right and up the arete. The arete is made up of millions of little crystal formations. Continue directly up the arete to a ledge. From the ledge descend easy ground to the left to regain the abseil piont.

FA: David and Hilton Davies, 19/07/1998

The Gem (Grade 22, 45 metres)
Same access as for Crytal Arete. The abseil point is on the same ledge as Crystal Arete. This ledge is on the same level as the main pillar seen from the car park. The waterfall is just to the right looking down. Use a nut and a Friend for the abseil point. Remember to tie a knot at the end of the rope as one stops at the top of the overhang - 45 m.

Abseil down to a small ledge above the big base overhang. You have to place a few nuts to keep yourself in. Climb up to a small roof to a piton. Move left and up the corner (crux). Climb the arete for 10m. Well protected - a real gem!

FA: David and Hilton Davies, 19/07/1998

Magician, Aasvoelfrans, Cogman's, Montagu, Cape Town
J . Wamsteker & J . Orton

Start at diagonal rightward crack below a jammed block, 3m left of the cave/ corner.
1.   (14) 40m    Climb diagonal right crack and then up for 30m, move left and up to a stance above and left of a sloppy ledge just left of a tree.
2.   (20) 18m   Move up recess and pull through overhangs and then diagonally left to a hanging stance at a vertical slot under a roof.
3.   (21) 20m  Balance rightwards then up, round corner and up a finger crack. Move up an overhanging groove and then a rightward tending lay away crack to a stance on the right.
4.   (19) 50m   Move right and up to an orange rock aiming for a small groove. Pull through groove and move up rightward onto face. Continue till able to pull through to a stance.
5.   (14) 30m   Groove up the groove to a stance. Scramble to the top.

Head right ( approx. south ) to a saddle and then down slope to a rocky ravine, head down ravine and then traverse back to start of climb.

Mark Seuring recently opened up some new routes at Vrede :
  • Playground Psychotic (14) - 4 bolts and chains,
  • Lunchtime Legend (25+) - 3 bolts and chains,
  • Chewing Saddles (27) - 3 bolts and chains.

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