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SA Extreme Rock Party 2004/11/25
The S.A. Extreme Rock party! On the 26th of November Urban Crag Climbing Centre will be holding a party in conjunction with S.A. Music Exposed to promote extreme sports and S.A. music. On the cards is a live band(movie 55), Rock climbing shows, Fire shows, Rapp jumping, Funky dance tunes(after 12) Give aways and some snacks for early birds. Tickets are only R50 and can be obtained at the gym. Be there to show your support! Phone gavin on 082 326 8951 or visit for more info.

Broken 2004/11/05
Marijus Smigelskis opened the long-standing project just left of Cape Fear at the Hole. The route shares the start but then takes a different
line through the big roof. It is called Broken and goes at 31.

News from EC 2004/10/14
A bunch of climbers from Rhodes University climbed at The Beach in Port Elizabeth recently including Martin Renz, Kevin Watkins, Adam & Paul Brouard. A couple of lines were climbed including the second ascents of Hydrophyllic 27 and Hydrophobic 29. Both these were done by Paul Brouard and he confirmed the grading of Hydrophobic. Morne van der Mescht also went to Howisons Poort where he got Fat Boys Aerobics 30 and Body Parts 29 in the small cave on his second go.

14yr old does a 30! 2004/10/11
Benjamin redpointed Siamang Blues a 30 at Delville Wood in Kwazulu/Natal. He is 14 and this could be a first at his age in SA.

Hurner cranks 30 2004/10/04
Brendan Hurner after just turning 16 has redpointed Siamang Blues 30 at Delville Wood. He also made quick work of Going Gonzo with King
28 at the Boneyard in Kloof. Also at the Boneyard David Richardson redpointed Dance McCarb 26.

Resoling 2004/09/29
Resoling of climbing shoes now offered by SA Climb Inn in Randburg. Visit the GEAR & SHOPS page for more information.

Roc Rally 2004/09/15
The Roc Rally Endurance Climbing Competition & Festival is coming up. Be sure to have registered by the 15th September!

Marc Efune at Faberge 2004/09/14
Marc Efune has sent the ultra classic Faberge 28 at Fernkloof after some serious work at it.

Scott sending in Natal 2004/09/14
Scott Sinclair has been on a roll sending two 30's in Natal recently. He wrapped up the clasasic Riders on the Storm in the wave cave and The Lat Cracker at KLoof Gorge both 30.

Bouldering by Greg 2004/09/13
Greg Streatfield sent Under My Thumb 7C and Much Ado about Nothing 7B+ second go at Rocklands. Out at Echo Valley, Topside Greg sent The Fuller Beast 7C and Shrek 7B+.

The Beach Crag 2004/09/13
Morne van der Mescht opened his project Hydrophobic at The Beach outside PE. Grade is not confirmed but it seems it could go at 28 or harder. The crag which is a short distance from Lady Slipper now boasts a couple of good lines and is well worth a visit. Climbs here include:
Bouche 18, M van der Mescht
Czech 22/23, M Wagener
Project by M Wagener
Sheathless - Grade 20 , M van der Mescht
Hydrophobic 28/29?, M van der Mescht
Overthrust 23, M van der Mescht
Hydrophyllic 27, M van der Mescht (photo of Martin Renz working it in the gallery.)
For more info please phone Morne on 073 162-6886.

Kya Sands SA Climb Inn Competition 2004/09/10
The dates for the SA Climb Inn competition in Kya Sands have changed to 29/30 and 31 October.

Marijus Smigelskis on a roll 2004/09/08
Marijus Smigelskis has been hard at work on many routes of late and has now put himself on the top of the SA rankings. He sent Chocolate Mousse 30 at The Mine and got Percolator 30 at Kleinmond. This with his previous sends of Bubble 31 at the Mine and Up for Grabs 32 at Oudtshoorn put him at number one in the rankings.

Sending in Boven 2004/08/12
At Waterval Boven both Eric Rieman and Scott Sinclair sent Panty Slapped 28, The Gift 27, Eraserhead 28 and Worlds Apart 26 which Eric flashed. Eric also
sent Ants in your pants 28 while Scott wrapped up Lotters Desire 28 and Chunky Monkey 27.

Oudtshoorn 2004/08/11
At Oudtshoorn Marijus Smigelskis sent Up for Grabs 32 on the main face.

Michael Schiemann sending hard 2004/08/05
Michael Schiemann has climbed to the top of the SA rankings for bouldering with his latest hard sends. These sends include A Question of Balance 7B+, Tromboli 7C+, Roykopp 7C+, The Arch 8A, Ron-ron et Caramel 8A and Pendragon 8A. An impressive list of sends all at Rocklands.

Bubble Repeated 2004/08/05
Marijus Smigelskis has repeated Bubble 31 at The Mine in Cape Town.

Up in Gauteng Marc Efune repeated Underdog 7B at 14th Avenue while Mark Millar did the big dyno Kane wasn't Able also 7B at The Keg.

Realization repeated 2004/08/02
Patxi Usobiaga has repeated Realization a 9a+(37) opened by Chris Sharma in Ceuse, France. Chris never graded it and the grade is only speculated but not doubted at all. Patxi has been working the route for some time now. News from

Intervarsity Climbing Competition 2004/07/28
SA Climb Inn Climbing gym in Kya Sands is hosting a Climbing Competition on 1st, 2nd and 3rd October 2004 for any over 18s. On Friday - Speed climbing, Saturday will see the difficulty and on Sunday, bouldering. Entries must be confirmed and paid before the 31/08/2004. There will be great prizes, a training wall outsie and refreshments will be provided. The registration fee is R55 per category, R80 for two and R120 for all three categories.
Entry forms can be obtained at the climbing gym or be e-mailing Karin at Great prizes to be won . Climbers are invited to register for the newsletter on the website to be informed about comps, specials and events.

Talk on Mnt Everest 2004/07/27
Talk by Andre Bredenkamp, who recently conquered the North Face of Everest, on the 6th August at 19h00 at the Alan Paton hall at Maritzburg College. R30 for adults and R15 for pupils in uniform.

Capelia redpointed 2004/07/19
Scott Sinclair redpointed Copelia 29 at Kloof Gorge in Natal.

Brouards and the classics at Fern 2004/07/16
Paul and Faye Brouard have been at Fernkloof recently wrapping things up there. Faye made quick work of the classics, the sustained Faberge 28 and technical Glass Menagerie 27. Paul did the direct start to Stormwatch which he thought was a good grade harder putting it at 32. We think he is the first to do this direct start to the classic line.

Reunion youth team at Boven 2004/07/14
The Réunion Island climbing team visited Waterval Boven recently. Baptiste Nomine for his 16th birthday redpointed Snap Dragon 29 on his third try as well as Lotters Desire on the same day. Jerémy Ciccione at 15 onsighted a new 27 at the Superbowl and also redpointed Lotters Desire. Joackim Ramsamy onsighted Paradise by the Sea 27 also at the Superbowl area.

The team opened a new route between the Hallucinogenic Wall and the Superbowl, the route is called Cactus Pallace 23.

Marijus on the roll 2004/07/14
Marijus Smigelskis has been on a roll lately, he recently repeated the all time classic El Nino 30 at Oudtshoorn. On the bouldering front he has sent a few hard problems at Rocklands including Kingdom in the Sky 7C, Stargate 7C and a new roof problem also 7C.

Sends in Boven 2004/07/13
Faye Brouard sent Lotters Desire 28 and flashed Tugela Blue 27. Thomas Vergunst also redpointed both these routes while Brandon Hurner now 15 also pointed the classic Lotters Desire.

Paul Brouard onsighted Panty Slapped 28 and frenchman Patiste Babor repeated Snapdragon 29.

Two new routes have also been added, Soul Mandate 25 next to Miss McKinley at The Superbowl by Mark Millar and El Dorado 28 at Tranquilitas a few metres right of Atlantis which was opened by Andrew Pedley and was repeated by Mark Efune.

Crime at the Crags 2004/07/12
A car was apparantly stolen from the Strubens Valley car park, please take care when parking there. There was also another mugging at Boven recently.

SASSU Results 2004/07/06
A summary of the results from this years SASSU inter-varsity sport climbing competition appear below. More details will follow soon at

1. University of Kwazulu/Natal
2. Rhodes University
3. University of Cape Town
4. Wits University
5. University of the Northwest (Potchefstroom campus)

Men's positions:
1. Paul Brouard (RU)
2. Scott Sinclair (UKZN)
3. Dave Richardson (UKZN)
4. Chris Haig (UCT)
5. Alan Grant (WITS)
6. Mark Millar (WITS)

Women's positions:
1. Tamryn Vivian (UKZN)
2. Michelle Cowan (UKZN)
3. Heather Cooke (RU)
4. Susan Blake (UCT)

Hardest route in the UK? 2004/06/30
John Gaskins has finished his project after a few years of work. The line is called Violent New Breed and is at the G-Spot on Giggleswick South, UK. He graded it 9a+ (37) being the hardest line in the UK. News from UKClimbing.

Youngest to climb 8B/V13 2004/06/25
Daniel Woods now 14 years old repeated Dave Graham's The Centaur 8B/V13 at RMNP Colorado, USA. This makes him the youngest to boulder this grade and it only took him 6 tries! News from

Urban Crag Speed Competition 2004/06/24
Urban Crag Climbing Center is hosting a Speed Climbing Competition at the Xtreme Sports Show, 7 & 8 August. For guaranteed Xtreme action, Xtreme prizes! Catch it at Kyalami on the 7th and 8th of August and in Durban (venue to be confirmed) on the 14th for a night challenge and 15th for the finals. Climbers may enter both the JHB and DBN comps if they wish. Check out or call Gavin on 082 326-8951 for more information.
Urban Speed Climbing Competition

Chosspile News 2004/06/22
A new route was put up at The Chosspile by Andrew Pedley called Halfling at 25/26 between Gollum and Mourn not Overmuch. Willem le Roux also managed a redpoint of Bully for Brontasaurus 29.

Martin at Howisons 2004/06/21
Martin Renz repeated the linkup from Body Parts 29 onto Madame Golliwog 27 to form Mr Woggligog he thought still at grade 29 at Howsons Poort near Grahamstown.

In Fernkloof in the Magaliesberg both Pieter Martin and Colin Crabtree confirmed the grade of Eric's new route Liquid Glass as 25.

Ary Ay Repeated 2004/06/14
Evan Wiercx has repeated Ard Ay 8B/V13 at Topside in Cape Town. The problem was opened by Jerry Moffat during his visit last year. This is his hardest send so far with only Justin Hawkins and Clinton Martinengo also having boulderd this grade.

Here is a video clip of Evan on Ard Ay on one of his earlier attempts, video clip courtesy of Evan and
Evan Wiercx on Ard Ay 8B/V13, Topside

SA ClimbInn Relocated 2004/06/09
The climbing gym in Kya Sands, SA Climb Inn has now re-opened at a new location with new and better facilities. It is still in Kya Sands but has moved. Visit for more details, their new address, membership specials etc.

Green Peas 2004/06/07
In Cape Town at the Mine both Clinton Marteningo and Craig Reed sent Green Peas 30.

Some sends at Swinburne & at 14th 2004/06/07
James Roberts at Swinburne repeated Chinese Puzzle Traverse 7A/V6 and also did the first ascent of Quivering Bum Start 7A/7A+ (V6/V7). This is the sit start of Quivering Heights at the Hillside boulders. Dave King also wrapped up Reach, Yellow Belly and Bulldust all V4/6C, Garth McIntosh also did Reach and Yellow Belly V4 and Quivering Heights at V4/6C+. Nerine also wrapped up Angora V3.

At 14th Avenue back in Johannesburg Russell Hattingh got Ginger Slut a 7B/V8.

Touching the Void 2004/06/07
This coming Friday, June 11 @ 8 pm CityROCK will be showing "Touching the Void". This movie is not your Sylvester Stallone or Tom Cruise fantasy movie. The film is based on mountain climber Joe Simpson's memoir, Touching the Void is a documentary that uses interviews and re-enactments to tell the story of Simpson and Simon Yates. In 1985, the two young British mountaineers attempted to scale the treacherous Siula Grande peak in the Peruvian Andes, but disaster struck (more than once). How both survived, particularly Simpson, is nothing short of miraculous.

"Touching the Void is among the most credible mountain-climbing films ever made." Film Journal International. Touching the Void also won the 2003 BAFTA Award (British Academy Awards) for Best British Film.

Entrance is free for CityROCK members. So come over for a climb, and then stay to watch the movie. If you are not a CityROCK member then the usual entrance fee applies (R50 for adults, R32, R30 for < 18). We will be selling cold and hot beverages, pop corn and hot soup!

Please RSVP to
Touching The Void @ CityROCK

Hardest in Australia 2004/06/06
Chris Webb, 19 has done the project in Nowra Australia. It is called White Ladder and is graded 8c+/35 making it the hardest route in Australia. The project was tried by top climbers such as Fred Nicole , Klem Loskot and Garth Miller. News from

Jozune wraps up another 8c+/34 2004/06/06
Josune Bereziartu has sent her 4th 8c/34 this year. he route is called Pata Negra and is located at Rodellar. Lisa Rands has also been cranking and has just sent four 7C+/V10 and four 7C/V9-10 as well as four 7B+/V9 flashes in the last two weeks. News from

Youngest to do a 8b+/33 2004/06/06
Adam Ondra now 11 has broken another youngest record by climbing Baby Basher at Kochel. The route is a confirmed 33/8b+. News from

SASSU Intervarsity 2004/06/01
This years SASSU competition will be hosted at the University of KwaZulu-Natal's Old Mutual Sport Hall on the 3-4 July 2004.

Spectators are encouraged to come and support the climbers. The event promises to be great fun.

For more details visit

New Routes at Kalk Bay 2004/06/01
Two new routes at the new "Dockside" sector at Kalk Bay, developed by Greg Hart. Marijus Smigelskis opened two of the projects, Piracy 24 which climbs the steep wall left of Stowaway. The prow left of Blood and Gold is now called Talamasca at grade 26.

Cape News 2004/06/01
From the Cape Greg Streatfield got The Beast 7A+ and The Beast and a Half 7B at Echo Valley, Topside. Evan Wiercx also ticked Shaun's Problem a 7B+ also at Topside.

Rhodes Open Comp Results 2004/05/31
The Rhodes Open Bouldering competition was held this last weekend. Paul Brouard won the comp with Martin Renz taking a close second and Kevan Watkins third.

The Winter Cranking begins 2004/05/31
With the winter season about to start the Natal climbers are starting to get back into shape. Faye Brouard sent the super sustained and cruxy Phantom of the Opera 28, a classic line thats quite solid at its grade. She also made quickwork of Pecarino 26 at Swinburne. The kids Brendan and Benjamin Hurner also from Natal recently fired Viper and Vampire both 27 at the Canyon, Brendan also redpointed the classic Dance McCarb 26 at the Boneyard. Thomas Vergunst also wrapped up La Boheme 27 at the Canyon in Kloof.

Here is a movie clip. of Evan on Ard Ay a while ago before he got it.

Rhodes Open Bouldering Competition 2004/05/28
Rhodes University will be holding their usual Open Bouldering Compo on Saturday the 29th of May at the Allec Mullins Sports Hall. There are prizes up for grabs.
Mens Open, Mens Novice, Ladies Open, Ladies Novice (depending on number of entries) and Scholars.
Registration starts 8:30am for 9am.
Contact Damian on 082 810-6092 or email for more information.

Realization Repeated? 2004/05/27
It seems that Realization Chris Sharma's 9a+/37 in Ceuse has been repeated by Sylvain Millet. He is a 26yr old French climber who has Ceuse as his home crag. He is also ranked quite highly in the World Cup for competition climbing. This is according to

Swinburne Guide 2004/05/25
The Swinburne Route Guide has been updated and is now up to date. Please let us know if you spot any missing routes or problems.

New 33 at Boven 2004/05/19
Two new hard lines were put up by Jens Richter from Austria recently at Waterval Boven. graded 33! This line is just left of Devil in a Cauldron. He also put up a trad line Boa Rodeo 31 at the Junkyard making it one of the hardest trad lines in the country.

Results from Bouldering League 2004/05/17
The bouldering competition which was the final for the Gauteng & Natal leagues was a great success. The bouldering area about 30km north of Swinburne proved an excellent area with 50 problems set. A big thank you to Eric, Lorne, Miggy and all the others that helped make the event a success as well as to all the sponsors for some great prizes.

1 Shaun Harris GP 8390   1 Julia Davies GP 4310
2 Nani de Villiers GP 8340   2 Dominique Dix-Peek GP 2630
3 Steve Bretherick GP 7490   3 Marian Penso GP 2550
3 Jacques Crouse PT 7490   4 Tammy Vivian PT 2260
3 Gideon J. Nederveen PT 7490   5 Heidi Roos KZN 2130
6 Rowan Toselli GP 7440   6 Desiree Jones GP 1830
7 James Roberts GP 7340   7 Monique Harris GP 1380
8 Gregory Borman GP 6700   8 Brigitte Laurent KZN 1210
9 Renier Kampman PT 6340   9 Michelle Cowan KZN 1140
10 David Drummond KZN 6090   10 Catherine Musto GP 1060
11 Gary Lowther GP 5960   11 Erica Miller KZN 1030
12 Mathew Salt KZN 5750   12 Nerine Richards GP 940
13 Dion Van der Riet GP 5720  
14 Scot Sinclair KZN 5250  
15 Hardns De Bruyn PT 5180  
16 Mark Miller GP 5090  
17 Danie Booyens KZN 4990  
18 Marc Efune GP 4740  
19 Chris Bahlmann KZN 4640  
20 Nic Greere KZN 3330  
21 Gavin Jones KZN 2630  
22 Nivashen Naguran KZN 2250  

Gauteng bouldering league results 2004/05/13
The B league results after the finals are as follows:
1. Dion Van der Riet 2. Willem le Roux 3. David King
C league results:
1. Samuel Mirkin 2. Kieran Toselli 3. Darren Beams
The mens & womens finals are being held on 15th & 16th May at Swinburne.

New V16/8C+ boulder problem 2004/05/13
Dai Koyamada has just sent the tunnel to tunnel Hollow Mountain project and given it 8C+/V16. This is now the second problem at this grade, the other is Mauro Calibani's Tonino 78 The new problem is more than 60 moves long almost qualifying as a route. News from

Bouldering League Finals 2004/05/10
The last final for the Gauteng B & C leagues will be held on Tues 11th May at St Peters. The Masters will be on the 15th and 16th May. Accommodation will be at Swinburne and the climbing will be in a new area about 30km North. Everyone should be at Swinburne by 9am on Sat 15th May no later. You will need to drive in convoy to the new area. Prizes will be given out that evening. Please bring warm clothing as it can get very cold in the area. Rooms that sleep 2 are available at R75/pp/n and can be arranged by calling Ansie on 082 926-1155. Bunk beds are available in the barn for R40/pp/n.

Those that don't make it to the Masters can still come down to support the others and try some of the bouldering/climbing and maybe get a cool spot prize or two.

For more info email Eric on or call 072 111-4692.

Francois Nicole opens a long standing project 2004/05/10
Francois Nicole, Fred Nicole's brother finally got a long standing project at Saint loup in Switzerland. The route is called Bimbaluna and he puts it at slightly harder than the other two 9a/36 route at the same crag 9a+/37. The route is 20m long and slightly overhanging with about 35 moves. News from

Headlamp ascents 2004/05/09
Greg Streatfield and Steve Bradshaw sent a V8/7B at CBD boulders by head lamp. Ben Harper, Michael Schieman and Steve all sent Samurai V8/7B at Red Hill.

The fair Cape 2004/05/05
Steve Bradshaw jnr sent a nameless 7C on the 'Through the core' boulder at Echo Valley, Topside. On the same boulder Greg Streatfield and Danie Moolman flashed Osirus 7A+. At the Graffiti Boulders, Echo Valley, Michael Schieman also sent the highball dyno and ankle wrenching Doubt and Expectation 7B.

Bouldering League Final Event 2004/05/03
The final event for those that qualify from Gauteng and Natal will be held on the 15th and 16th of May. It will be based in Swinburne but the actual comp is in a new area about 30km North. The comp will run on Saturday from 9am (Swinburne barn) to 3pm (leave new area). Competitors will have 50 problems and +/- 4hours to get as many of the problems as possible. This will be only for the Masters Category (men and woman) from KZN , Pretoria and JHB. Prizes include a Beal bouldering matt, Montrail climbing shoes, North Face backpack, First Accent sleeping bags, and more. Only competitors who have made it through their respective leagues will be allowed to compete. Spectators are welcome to join in on the weekend. There will be spot prizes and a chance to boulder on completely virgin rock.

For JHB's lower league (B and C) there will be a final on the 11th of May at St Peter's Gym. Prizes are from Rock Empire (set of Robot cams) Lucky (set of QD) and more.

Final Natal Bouldering League Results 2004/05/03
The results after the final of the Natal Bouldering league are as follows:

Women/Girls U18
1. Tammy Vivian [86] 2. Erica Miller [79] 3. Brigitte Laurent [73]
Boys U18
1. Mathew Salt [109] 2. Danie Booyens [108] 3. Gavin Jones [106]
1. Angus McFarlane [110] 2. Trent Burnett [109.3] 3. Dave Drummond [108.7]
For a full list of results visit the UND website
As well as the above people, the following people are invited to the National Bouldering Comp in the Freestate, on the 15 May:
Michelle Cowan, Sam Bartlett, Chris Balmann, Mathien Schneumly, Nic Greece, Shaun Oakley, Graham Kidson, Niv Naquran, Jethro Badenhorst, Kyle Ludwig, Pawel Szpak.
Natal Bouldering League

Results for Gauteng Bouldering League 2004/04/29
The current standings for the 2004 Open Class Bouldering League in Gauteng are as follows:
1. Steve Bretherick (101) 2. Rowan Toselli (100) 3. Shaun Harris & Dave Glass (99)
1. Julia Davies (87) 2. Dominique Dix-Peek (86) 3. Desiree Jones (84)

Next Event & Final
The next and last event before the final will be at St Peter's Gym Wall at St. Peter's Prep School on 11 May 2004 between 5pm and 8pm. The final will be held on the weekend of the 15th & 16th of May. For more information contact Eric on or call 072 111-4692.

New 8C/V15 in Australia 2004/04/29
Day Koyamada has been in the Grampians in Australia and managed to climb almost every boulder problem in the Hollow Mountain Cave and even added a linkup in of Sleepy Hollow 8A+/V12 into Cave Rave 8B+/V14 in three days and graded it 8C/V15. He also did Ammagamma 8B/V13 and Lost for Life 8A+/B at the Citadel. News from

Kilian Fischauber gets first 8c (35) flash 2004/04/28
Kilian Fischauber pulled off a world first by flashing Tai Chi 8c (34). The route in Lorüns, Switzerland by Beat Kammerlander was previously 8b+ (33) until a hold broke off, its a 8m slightly overhanging route with small holds. News from

8c (34) by 13year old 2004/04/28
David Lama a 13year old from Austria has become the youngest person to climb an 8c (34). He recently sent 7pm JP chaud at the Gorges du loup in France, he also onsighted Deverse Satanique a 8a+ (31) in the same area. His first 8a (30) came at age 10, first 8b (32) at 11 and first 8b+ (33) at age 12. News from

New Waterval Boven Guide 2004/04/26
A new guide for Waterval Boven by Gustav Janse van Rensburg has been released and is now available at most climbing stores and from Roc n Rope in Waterval Boven.

The guide book is one of the most professional guides released in SA to date being full colour, incluing many previously undocumented routes and with topos and many photographs. It includes a stack of information on The Restaurant (Waterval Boven), its history, rest day activities etc. The actual route information is also very comprehensive and a usefull index per grade as well as an alphabetical index is included. There are now over 500 routes described in this 180 page guide!

This guide is a must for any climbers visiting the area and comes highly recommended.
Waterval Boven Route Guide

Re-opening of gym 2004/04/25
The official reopening of Kya Sands Indoor Climbing Gym will be on 13th May 2004. For more details including the new address visit the website.

Climbing store in Pretoria 2004/04/24
A new climbing shop opens in Pretoria called Adventure Zone They will be stocking Black Diamond, DMM, Scavenger, Petzl, Montrail, LA Sportiva, Madrock, Prana etc.

Natal Bouldering League Results 2004/04/19
Here are the standings of the Natal Bouldering League so far, after 4 comps. The next one will be the final. After that the top competitors will be invited to a national final in the Free State, with climbers from JHB and Pretoria competing.

1. Angus McFarlane [110] 2. Trent Burnett [109] 3. Chris Bahlmann [105]
Boys U18
1. Danie Booyens [108] 2. Gavin Jones [106] 3. Mathew Salt [100]
Women and Girls
1. Tammy Vivian [86] 2. Erica Miller [79] 3. Brigitte Laurent [70]

For the full list of results visit the UND website

For a full updated poster to print out and help advertise the event click here.
Natal Bouldering League

SA Patagonia Expedition 2004/04/18
Website on the SA Patagonia expedition: The 2003/2004 expedition went up the east face, Central Tower of Paine, Torres del Paine, Patagonia, Chile.
Towers of Paine, Patagonia

Parking in Boven 2004/04/03
The parking area for the Wonderland area at the farmhouse is now becoming risky. A car was broken into recently in the parking area. This is probably because the house next to the parking is standing vacant. Please take care when parking here and at least leave nothing of value in the car. The MCSA is looking into the problem.

Bain de Sang repeat 2004/04/02
Alessandro "Jolly" Lamberti repeated Bain de Sang 9a/36 at Saint Loop in Switzerland. It is 25m long route that is very technical with a very hard move at the end. This is "Jolly's" second 9a/36 after his repeat of Hugh.

Bain de Sang is proving to be the most repeated 9a/36 in the world. News from
Alessandro Lamberti on Bain de Sang, 9a.

Kya Sands Climbing Gym moving 2004/04/01
S.A.Climb Inn the climbing gym in Kya Sands will be closed from 29/03/2004 until 1/5/2004. They are relocating to a bigger premisis (420m2) with a 6m overhang and still in the same general area. The new gym will be in a guarded complex with a 24hour security guard. The building is almost new and there will be plenty of parking. A coffee shop, tables and gear shop are planned.

The membership fees will be R1050 for a yearly membership but we there is a pre-sale of yearly memberships for R650. The money can be deposited into the account given below. Deposit slips will be exchanged for membership cards upon opening. This offer is valid for 3 weeks from 23 March. People can view the new premises by appointment. Call 072 632-4676. If anyone wants to design a new logo for S.A. Climb Inn send them to, the best will win a free years membership.
FNB, account number: 60171738732, branch: 230134

Bubble in the Mine 2004/03/29
Edvinas Smigelskis now 17 repeated Bubble graded 31 at the Mine, Cape Town. His previous hardest redpoints were a couple of 27's.

Ard Ay 2004/03/27
Clinton Martinengo repeated Ard Ay 8B/V13 at Topside and at Montagu he opened
Finding Ningo 28 at the Sloth crag and at the Scoop Greg Streatfield redpointed the tenuous Optimist 26.

Natal News 2004/03/23
Angus Macfarlain and Dave Drummond both redpointed Viper 27 in Natal recently.

Natal Bouldering League 2004/03/19
The standings of the Natal Bouldering League so far are as follows:

Women and Girls
1. Tammy Vivian, 2. Erica Miller, 3. Brigitte Laurent
1. Dave Drummond, 2. Angus McFarlane, 3. Trent Burnett
Boys U18
1. Mathien Schneumly, 2. Danie Booyens, 3. Gavin Jones

To follow the full league standings, see:

For a full poster to print out and help advertise the event click here.
Natal Bouldering League

Inter Varsity 2004 2004/03/17
The first event of the Inter-Varsity Bouldering League between UCT and Stellenbosch was held on 13 March 2004. Big thanks to all of those that
made the comp a success especially the sponsors (Mountain Mail Order, City Rock, Orca, RAM Mountaineering, NAMA and Red Bull) and the route
setters Brian Chase, Dale Posthumus and Edvinas Smigelskis. Below are the results:

Mens (non-students)
1. Ben Harper
Mens (students)
1. Marijus Smigelskis (UCT, 2. Steve Bradshaw (UCT), 3. Michael Schiemann (Stellenbosch)
Womans (students)
1. Danielle de Kock (UCT), 2. Raelize Loubser (Stellenbosch), 3. Brenda Kirchner (Stellenbosch)

The overall event was won by UCT.

Swinburne 2004/02/24
Guy Hubbard and James Roberts both repeated Subconscious at Swinburne this weekend. After consensus the grade has now settled at V8/7B. Guy also repeated Scorpion Face V6/7A and Dom did Awareness also 7A.

Gauteng Bouldering League 2004/02/23
The 2004 Open Class Bouldering League - Gauteng
This first event (March to May 2004) is a trial for a possible national league and will be held at the St Peter's Gym Wall at St. Peter's Prep School.

Its a fun, social and competitive event with several boulder problems of varying difficulty set every 2 weeks. They are geared at both novices and experts. The event ends in an outdoor final.
First event on 2 March until 11 May every second week.

For more info contact Eric on or 072 111-4692

Natal Bouldering League 2004/02/23
The Natal Bouldering League for winter of 2004:

4th March - UKZNMC
18th March - The Rock
1st April - To be announced
15th April - To be announced
29th April - To be announced
15th May - Outdoor venue (Invitational final)

Time: 6pm to 8.30pm
Cost: R7

Finals will be a combined event from a similar league in Gauteng. Contact Dave on 084 607-0818 for more information.
Natal Bouldering League

City Rock Competition 2004/02/22
City Rock in Cape Town presents their Premiere
Bouldering Competition on Sat 27th, March 2004.
Kids register at 9am: Climb from 10 to 1
Adults register at 1pm: Climb from 2 to 5

4 Categories for men and women:
Novice(0-2yrs experience, Intermediate(2-5yrs experience, Advanced(5+ yrs experience, open)
Kids(<18 and <15)
Cost: R30 for under 18's and Students and R50 for adults.
Entry forms available at CityROCK or by fax or email
Contact: or call (021) 447-1326
City Rock will be closed for roped climbing for that day.

Shongweni 2004/02/20
On a well attended MCSA meet to the Magnetic Wall at Shongweni Dam, both Scott Sinclair and Dave Drummond Red-pointed Crease Master 27. A guard was supplied by Msinsi Holdings.

Obituary 2004/02/18
Rory Lowther was climbing trad at Swinburne on
Tuesday 3 Feb when he fell. The gear placed did not hold and he fell about 20m. Rory died before the medics arrived due to serious injuries.

Our sympathies to his family and friends. He was very active in the climbing community developing several new crags and compiling a route guide.

No Comment 2004/01/28
February 3 2004 - Climbing & Bouldering Movie "No Comment" - at MCSA, Hatfield Street, Cape Town at 7pm. Featuring top European climbers. For more info about the movie visit

Harris on form 2004/01/27
Shaun Harris appears on form, he repeated Stargate 7C+/V10, Rooi Klavier 7C/V9-10, Caroline 7C/V9-10 and Tea-Time 7C+/V10 at Rocklands this December.

New 8C+ problem? 2004/01/27
Mauro Calibani re-climbed his Leonardo problem a V14/8B+ now that a crucial hold has broken off at Meschia. He has renamed it Tonino '78 and proposed V16/8C+ which would make it the first at this grade and the hardest in the world. Mauro commented that the area is however closed and anyone wishing to climb there should contact him. News from

14year old boulders 8A+ 2004/01/25
The 14 year old Daniel Woods has done his first V12/8A+ at Poudre Canyon making him the youngest to boulder this grade. News from

Bouldering compo in Durban 2004/01/20
Here are the results from the Durban bouldering competition held recently:
In Mens:
1. Donovan Burls
2. Clinton Martinengo
3. Scott Sinclair
Women and Girls under 18:
1. Kathryn Fourie
2. Tammy Vivian
3. Karen Spilsbury
Boys U18:
1. Mathew Salt
2. Danie Booyens
3. Gavin Jones

For a full list of results and some pictures visit
Durban bouldering comp

SA team summits Torres del Paine 2004/01/14
An SA team consisting of Alard, Mark Seuring, Voytec and Marianne summitted Torres del Paine in South America on 13 Jan.

Durban guys 2004/01/12
Dave Drummond and some of the other Durban & PMB guys went on their December road trip. Dave repeated Colin the librarian V6, Were do we go from hereV8/9, Under my thumb V9/10 and Troglodyte V7/8 a new problem all in Rocklands. In Montagu Scott Sinclair, Greg Streatfield and Dave redpointed Delete Button 26 and Dave also did Thruster 26 and onsighted True Romance's 24.

Back in Natal Dave has also opened two new routes, Kitten soft 19 at the Boneyard and Tabular Rasa 24 at Winston Park.

Another Dreamtime 2004/01/10
Apparantly Steve Dunning has repeated Dreamtime V15/8C, at Cresciano in Switzerland. He apparantly thought it to be V14/8B+ due to a new sequence that he found. News from

Martin Renz on limestone 2004/01/04
Martin Renz repeats Seven 29 and the classic El Nino 30 in December and then early in January came back to repeat Up for Grabs 32 his first 32. He did all these routes at Oudtshoorn in the Western Cape.

Peerscave at 2am 2004/01/03
Marijus Smigelskis managed to open Last of the Mohicans 28 which climbs the slabby wall left of Digital Maneuvers in the Dark at the silly hour of 2am! Clinton Martinengo made a quick a second ascent later that morning.

News archives for 2003
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