SACIN - Online Guide for Shongweni

Mike Maxsfield on 'Supernova' 30 - Wave Cave, photo by Paul Brouard

Please read our Disclaimer.

At present this guide covers the Shongweni Dam area. Delville Wood & other areas will be added in the future. These crags are in the Shongweni Reserve near the dam and consist of a hard featured sandstone. This rock lends itself to steep climbing but does tend to shlork in the hot humid months. There are 88 routes in the dam area ranging from grade 8 to 33 including many classics and testpieces.

Access

The Magnetic Wall crags are open to climbers but please check with the guards at the gate regarding access to the Cave areas.

Paul Brouard on 'Pendulous Momemtous' 29, Wave Cave, photo by Mike Maxsfield

Camping

There is unfortunately no camping in the Reserve but the MCSA hut at Montesel can be booked by calling (031) 767-2319. You can also camp at the Queensburgh Caravan Park (031) 44-5800. There are many B&Bs available in Kloof and Westville.

Directions

From the main N3 highway between Pietermaritzburg & Durban take the Shongweni/Assagay offramp. If you are travelling from the Durban side turn left off the highway. Take the first tar road left after about 800m, this is signposted "Shongweni Dam". Take the next right and follow this road through the villiage to the entrance of the reserve. From the turn this is about 6km.

Safety & Medical

There is a clinic in Westville and hospitals in Durban and Pietermaritzburg. Call 10177 or 112 from a mobile phone for any serious accidents. There are unfortunately crime problems in the area, however the security is being improved within the reserve. Please take care and do not leave valuables visible in your car and also take care where you park. It is important thhat you ask the guards at the gate what the current security is like at the particular area you will be climing at. The Magnetic Wall area is considered to be fairly safe at present. The water in the river and dam should be avoided.

Weather

The area gets very hot and humid from November to March, winter offers the best climbing with drier and cooler conditions. There are usually thunderstorms in summer but rarely any rain in winter. The river through the gorge can often be very difficult to cross in summer after heavy rains, this only applies to the Cave areas.

Magnetic Wall Area

There are currently 40 routes in this area, all fully bolted and ranging in grade from 8 to 28. Click on the link above to see the route descriptions. All routes are listed left to right.

The Caves

This area includes two large caves with 48 routes, all bolted from grades 14 to 33. Many of the countries classic hard lines are found here. Click on the link above to see the route descriptions. All routes are listed left to right.

Please send any new route information, images and any corrections/ suggestions to routes@saclimb.co.za

Copyright 2001 SACIN
Please send us any corrections or new route/area information. Read our Disclaimer.
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