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Guide for Magnetic Wall Crags

Climb INDEX * Main Mag Wall * The Gully * The Headology Area * The Castle Butress * The Red Wall

From the entrance take the left fork, park in the signposted area just past the reception office. Take the path from the parking directly down the hill. When you get the game fence climb over the stile and follow the path left along the fence. The path drops slightly right and comes out below the cliffs. The crags are shaded during the morning which makes it a good spot during the hot summer months.
Main Mag Wall
This is the main wall in the Mag Wall area and features most of the better routes. This is the first crag you get to from the path on the walk-in.
. ................................ ..............
OH MERCY 23 *** [6D, A]
The first route on the left, Steep cranking on large holds.
First Ascent: T Mackenzie 1994
 
BREAK OUT 24 *** [7D, A]
A touch reachy but still a good line
First Ascent: T Mackenzie 1994
 
THE SHAPE OF THINGS TO CAM 22 *** [7D, A]
First Ascent: C Pearman, 1993
 
IAN'S ROUTE 22 ** [7D, A]
First Ascent: Ian Manson, 1995
 
SMILING HAPPY ENGINEERS 15 *** [7D, A]
First Ascent: Ian Manson, 1995
 
XAWN 15 ** [8D, A]
First Ascent: A Peterson, 1996
 
THE DRAGON LADY 12 *** [7D, A]
First Ascent: Spirit Of Adventure, 1994
 
SEX AND CANDY 26 *** [10D, A]
First Ascent: A Dagliesh, 1998
 
TAKE AWAY 25 **** [6D, A]
First Ascent: C Robertson, 1993
 
REFLECTIONS 27 *** [7D, A]
First Ascent: C Pearman, 1994
 
DISSING THE HOMEBOYS 21 **** [B,A]
First Ascent: I Manson, 1993
 
THE CREASE MASTER 27 *** [7D, A]
First Ascent: P. Brouard, 1997
 
NATURAL PROGRESSION 18 ** [7D, A]
First Ascent: H Green and E Penman, 1993
 
CLOCK AROUND THE ROCK 22 ** [5D, A]
Bouldery to the second bolt.
First Ascent: Caroline Pearman, 1993
 
DAVE'S PROW 24 ** [7D, A]
First Ascent: D Deetliffs, 1995
 
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The Gully
The Gully can be accessed by walking right from the Magnetic Wall, past some overhangs to the next area.
. ................................ ..............
EPILADY 20 ** [6D, A]
First Ascent: D Viljoen, 1995
 
MR POTATO HEAD 14 *** [7D, A]
First Ascent: A Dalgleish, 1996
 
MINDLESS JIVE 22 *** [6D, A]
First Ascent: G Camp, 1995
 
MOONSHINE 15 *** [8D, A]
First Ascent: E Penman, 1994
 
ITCHY 11 **
First Ascent: Unknown
 
SCRATCHY 8 **
First Ascent: Unknown
 
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The Headology Area
Further right from the Gully you will get to the next set of routes just before a large roof. The classic HEADOLOGY runs through the middle of this roof.
. ................................ ..............
EGO DISTONIC 14 *** [9D, A]
First Ascent: A Peterson, 1996
 
BABOON EATS KEYBOARD PLAYER 22 ** [6D, A]
First Ascent: D Tromp, 1995
 
SEASON OF DEATH 22 *** [9D, A]
First Ascent: G Camp, 1995
 
TICKETS AND TENANTS 13 ** [7D, A]
First Ascent: G Camp, 1995
 
GERALD DOES PULP FICTION 21 *** [8D, A]
First Ascent: I Manson, 1995
 
SNAIL TRAIL 19 *** [7D, A]
First Ascent: I Manson, 1995
 
AFRICA FAREWELL 17 ** [8D, A]
There is an alternate start to AFRICA FAREWELL, climbs up the break to the right (don't whimp out onto the ledge). It is called AFRICA REVISITED.
First Ascent: A Camp, 1995 (Alternate start by Paul Coysh)
 
THE EXILE 24 *** [8D, A]
First Ascent: G Camp, 1995
 
HEADOLOGY 28 **** [9D, A]
The VERY steep line through the roof. The root doesn't get climbed much so bring a brush for the top holds.
First Ascent: G Holwill, 1994 BB: A Alcock
 
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The Castle Butress
Continue on along the base of the crag from Headology to this area. This path is often indistinct and some bush-bashing is sometimes required.
. ................................ ..............
GARGOYLE 23 ** [7D, A]
First Ascent: J Taljardt, 1997
 
QUEST FOR THE HOLY GRAIL 21 *** [7D, A]
First Ascent: J Taljardt, 1997
 
THE COURT JESTER 19 *** [8D, A]
First Ascent: J Taljardt, 1997
 
KNIGHTS HONOUR 17 ** [9D, A]
First Ascent: J Taljardt, 1997
 
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The Red Wall
Further on from the Castle Buttress area you will find The Red Wall. This area offers some longer vertical routes. In summer the routes here can get a bit sandy.
. ................................ ..............
OLD AND IN THE WAY 19 ** [10D, A]
First Ascent: I Manson, 1995
 
OLD DOGS, NEW TRICKS 17 *** [13D, A]
First Ascent: D Deetliffs, 1995
 
MONDO BITCH TURNS ROPE GUN 17 **** [12D, A]
First Ascent: I Manson, 1995
 
NATURAL BORN POSERS 20 **** [12D, A]
First Ascent: K Tonkin, 1994
 
BIKER BABES IN BLACK LEATHER 18 ** [11D, A]
First Ascent: K Tonkin, 1994
 
THE FAR COUNTRY 14 ** [11D, A]
The route below the Red Wall, starting in the riverbed.
First Ascent: Spirit of Adventure, 1995
 
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