Visit ClimbZA
SAClimb.co.za Home Page
Guide for The Caves

Climb INDEX * The Rasta Cave * The Wave Cave

To gain access to these crags park as for the Magnetic Wall and walk right down the hill untill it comes out on the road again. Continue along the dust road, the river will be on your right. Just after the start of the 4X4 course the path beaks right towards the river. Walk down the water course, cross the river heading for a largish tree alongside the river. At the tree remove any wet items of clothing and continue along the path as it heads further down the gorge, about 100m along the path breaks right. Continue up and left ignoring any splits in the path and you will walk into the Wave Cave from the right. You can also park by the dam wall to make the walk in shorter however there have been a few car break-ins here. Please take care in the cave areas as there have been a few isolated incidents of crime. Check with the guards at the entrance to the reserve regarding the current security & access situation. The caves are mostly shaded but do get early morning sun until about 10h00. Due to the high humidity summer climbing is not recommended. These caves have some of the country's best and hardest steep sport routes and are definitely worth a visit.
The Rasta Cave
To get to the Rasta Cave continue past the Wave Cave through the small bouldering cave and on for about 150 meters (this part of the walk is sometimes quite vegetated). The Rasta Cave is lower than the Wave Cave and the routes tend to be more strength orientated. The routes on the right are slightly longer and more sustained than the bouldery routes on the left of the cave. There are some easier more vertical routes at the far end of the crag.
. ................................ ..............
NICK NOK 15 ** [7D, A]
The last route past the Rasta Cave on the vert walls further on.
First Ascent: N De Carvalho, 1996
 
MELANGE 14 ** [6D, A]
First Ascent: M Viljoen, 1996
 
SPONTANEOUS COMBUSTION 19 ** [10D, A]
First Ascent: J Taljaardt, 1996
 
HUBBLY BUBBLY 32 **** [8D, A]
The last route in cave territory. Bouldery and very draining to work.
First Ascent: P Brouard, 1996
 
PROJECT ? [8D, A]
The route heading left towards the chains of Hubbly Bubbly.
First Ascent: J Taljard, 200?
 
MEIN KAMPF 27 **** [8D, A]
Delicate roof foot work and good body tension required.
First Ascent: E Olds, 1999
 
NICKS ROUTE 24 *** [7D, A]
The route which didn't quite make it, useful as a warm up though. It ends on a single biner and bolt just before the roof.
First Ascent: BB N de Carvalho
 
MARRIED MEN CAN'T CLIMB 26 **** [7D, A]
First Ascent: BB E Blomeyer, FA D McHendry
 
ACTION ERECT 28 **** [7D, A]
The left route of the two which share the same start.
First Ascent: D McHendry
 
ALPHA BLONDIE 25 **** [7D, A]
First Ascent: D McHendry
 
RUGGA MUFFIN 26 *** [8D, A]
The last route before the wall shortens off.
First Ascent: D McHendry & E Olds, 1998
 
RATTLE AND HUM 26 **** [8D, A]
First Ascent: R Burroughs, 1996
 
SUPERNOVA 30 ***** [10D, A]
The best looking line in the Rasta Cave. A tough first section warms you up nicely for the desperate exiting moves!
First Ascent: D McHendry, 1996
 
GUARANA 29 ***** [12D, A]
A wide variety of moves on a steep and ridiculously sustained climb, excellent!
First Ascent: D Olds, 1996
 
DOPE ON A ROPE 29 **** [12D, A]
The leftward leaning diagonal to the right of 'Guarana'
First Ascent: R Nattrass, 1996
 
POINT BLANK 30 **** [9D, A]
Super Cruxy, this route has not seen many repeats. Don't get on to this you're looking for your first 30 redpoint!
First Ascent: D McHendry, 1997
 
LUNA 24 *** [5D, A]
The first route as you come into the Rasta Cave.
First Ascent: R Burroughs, 1996
 
Back to Top * Back to Shongweni

The Wave Cave
The routes in the cave are very steep and generally quite juggy routes. This inevitably produces some valiant redpoint attempts. There are several excellent five-star routes in the cave. Most of the routes have biner lower-offs but is is probably safer and easier to down-climb the routes.
. ................................ ..............
A BLONDE'S LIFE 19 [7D, A]
The short dusty route between the Wave Cave and the Bouldering Cave.
First Ascent: I Manson, 1995
 
YOU SNOOZE, YOU LOOZE 26 ** [7D, A]
The route on the far left of the Cave. The routes on this side aren't climbed often and normally require cleaning. They include some interesting climbing and are worthwhile doing.
First Ascent: R Nattrass, 1995
 
NATURAL BORN DRILLERS 24 *** [8D, A]
Break left at the ledge 3/4 of the way up.
First Ascent: R Nattrass, 1995
 
MICKEY AND MALLORY 26 *** [8D, A]
Instead of breaking left continue up and slightly right.
First Ascent: R Nattrass, 1995
 
LOVE 'N THE DEMON 30 *** [14D, A]
Strange moves leaving and gaining the groove. Tends to be dusty.
First Ascent: BB K Tonkin, FA P Brouard, 1998
 
WILD SHEEP CHASE 23 **** [8D, A]
'Wild Sheep Chase' refers to the action sometimes required to climb in the Cave.
First Ascent: BB M Viljoen, 1994
 
RUNNING SCARED 27 **** [11D, A]
The extension of 'Wild Sheep Chase'
First Ascent: K, Tonkin, 1995
 
WAKE UP 23 **** [7D, A]
The local warm up, be careful though if you're new to the Cave it might well do more that.
First Ascent: K Tonkin, 1994
 
RAPTURE OF THE STEEP 23 **** [7D, A]
The harder of the three 23's, doesn't quite warrant a grade of 24 though.
First Ascent: A Russel-Boulton, 1994
 
PENDULOUS MOMENTOUS 29 **** [11D, A]
The extension to Rapture, as with many routes in the Cave tight rope on the crux will reduce the difficulty. A touch hard for 29.
First Ascent: BB K Tonkin, FA D Olds, 1995
 
INVERTIGO 28 **** [10D, A]
Technical moves through the roof and a forearm blaze at the chains create this classic Cave 28.
First Ascent: K Tonkin, 1994
 
SIP 'N FLY 26 **** [9D, A]
A Classic 26. The bolt on the crux is often left out.
First Ascent: R Uken, 1994
 
EROS 33 ***** [13D, A]
Climb past Sip 'n Fly's chains and then head left to top out.
First Ascent: P Brouard, 2001
 
THE BIG MO 30 **** [13D, A]
Climb past Sip 'n Fly's chains and then to the finish of 'Riders in the Storm'
First Ascent: P Brouard, 1998
 
KICKED MY BUTT 26 **** [10D, A]
Originally opened at a very hard 25, to align it with the rest of the Cave grades we've moved it up to 26.
First Ascent: K Tonkin, 1994
 
CYCLONE CENTRAL 28 ***** [10D, A]
An absolute classic with some excellent moves.
First Ascent: R Nattrass, 1994
 
RIDERS IN THE STORM 30 ***** [13D, A]
Continue on past Cyclone's chains. The final hold may need dusting.
First Ascent: R Nattrass, 1994
 
SLAP 'N FLAY 32 ***** [13D, A]
AKA 'Riders Direct'. Climb directly up where Cyclone breaks left and continue through to the end of 'Riders in the Storm'
First Ascent: P Brouard, 1998
 
GLADIATOR 28 **** [9D, A]
First Ascent: Andy Alcock, 1994
 
NUMBSKULL 24 * [7D, A]
Loose & Sharp
First Ascent: G Camp, 1995
 
PARAGON 30 ***** [12D, A]
The most aesthetically pleasing line in the Cave. Sustained moves link together seamlessly to create a very enjoyable line.
First Ascent: Rodger Nattrass, 1995
 
ANTHRAX 29 ***** [12D, A]
The Line just right of 'Paragon'. Fun and Cruxy, the first few holds are sometimes dusty.
First Ascent: Rodger Nattrass, 1995
 
THE DREAMS OF SHARON TATE 27 *** [12D, A]
The route through the white tinged rock right of 'Anthrax', some strange but interesting moves, marred by a few dusty sharp holds.
First Ascent: Kevin Tonkin, 1994
 
FRIKKIE FISH LEGS 26 *** [10D, A]
A hard looking start leads the route right towards 'Barricade' / 'Thanatos'.
First Ascent: A Russell-Boulton, 1994
 
THANATOS 33 ***** [16D, A]
Start on 'Barricade' but breaks left where Barricade starts to ease off. A standing wave which just keeps coming at ya.
First Ascent: Paul Brouard, 1998
 
BARRICADE 32 ***** [13D, A]
Originally opened at 33, onsighted by Ellie Chiveoux who's comment was "One the hardest things I've ever onsighted..", but subsequently downgraded. Hard cruxes interspersed with cool moves and few rests. See if you can hang on until the chains!
First Ascent: Rodger Nattrass, 1995
 
THE STONE TEMPLE PILOTS 27 **** [10D, A]
The next route right, Good moves but prone to seepage. Beware of a loose looking block where the route joins 'FAT FREDDIE'.
First Ascent: Ian Manson, 1995
 
FAT FREDDIE 28 **** [10D, A]
This route joins ' THE STONE TEMPLE PILOTS' and shares the same chains. The full name is 'FAT FREDDIE AND THE ATTACK OF THE KILLER COCKROACHES'
First Ascent: Ian Manson, 1995
 
THE ETERNAL SUFFERING 25 ** [8D, A]
First Ascent: Harley Green, 1994
 
MOMENT OF INERTIA 27 *** [8D,A]
A stiff 27 a'la Damien, a good looking line with some bouldery moves.
First Ascent: D McHendry & D Olds, 1995
 
SCHIZOPHRENIA 24 ** [7D, A]
The first route on the right as you walk into the Cave.
First Ascent: J Taljard, 1995
 
Back to Top * Back to Shongweni

Back to Top * Back to Home Page



 

ADD TO DEL.ICIO.US   ADD TO DEL.ICIO.US   ADD TO DIGG   ADD TO FURL   ADD TO REDDIT   ADD TO STUMBLEUPON   ADD TO TECHNORATI FAVORITES   ADD TO WINDOWS LIVE   ADD TO YAHOO MYWEB   ADD TO GOOGLE

Copyright 2004 SACIN
Send news, corrections, new routes, adverts etc. to news@saclimb.co.za
Please read our Disclaimer