* Northcliff * Melville
Koppies * The Wilds * Mondeor
* The Keg
Please read our Disclaimer
All crags in and around Johannesburg
and Pretoria are covered by this index page. Most of these crags are smallish
with short routes, mostly sport. The rock is primarily quartsite and sandstone
with a few granite boulders strewn about. The Chosspile can be found in
the Magaliesberg section. Baviaanspoort and Melville Koppies and a few
crags around Roodepoort are still being compiled and should be online in
the near future.
Access is free and easy.
Drive north along Hendrik Potgieter drive, cross over Christiaan de Wet
Road, and take the next road to the left which is FredenHarry Drive. Follow
this road past a small shopping centre where pizzas or burgers can be eaten
on the way back. When you get to a T-junction turn right, pass through
a dip and as the road starts to curve rightward at what could have been
a T-junction you will see a vacant stand ahead of you, park here. Walk
upward slightly to the left on a fairly well defined path. You will see
a band of rock to your right (presently undeveloped but open) and then
on the left. The sport routes are on the left. Just above this crag there
is another crag with several natural routes which were in the process of
being bolted. There is a squatter here that does however occupy a few of
the best lines through a cave.
There are about 45 bolted
routes and another 30 natural routes with some undeveloped potential. Gradings
are from 5 - 28. Routes are mainly short, have plenty of bolts and are
all on quartsite rock. Click here for the guide.
The face sees some sunlight in the morning but is usually shaded in the
afternoon being almost east facing. This is an exellent beginner crag.
There are 56 fairly short
natural routes and most of them have top anchors so you can top-rope them.
The grades vary from 7 to 23. The rock is a hard smooth quartzite. Click
here for the guide. Generally free access parking by the eastern
water tower. The views over Johannesburg are excellent and during the Jacaranda
flowering season the Northcliff area can be very beautiful. Being North
facing this crag gets very hot. Take care of broken glass at the base of
Easy access 10-20m from
the road just of Beyers Naude. There are a few moderate but short routes
here. Click here for the guide.
Directions are as follows,
head to the Little Falls area in Roodepoort, take Ouklip Rd onto Debonnair
Street/Road and park near an obvious park entrance to a valley. Walk down
the path by the stream over a pipeline. Cross the metal bridge with waterfall
on right and look at grass braai area on left where the problems are across
the river. (Walk in time - 7 to 10 mins)
There are twelve independent
problems on the face with good grassy landings. Problems range from
4 to 5 metres high and the problems do not top out (even though it is possible
on some). The rock is solid in the first 5 metres and then deteriorates
higher up making the wall unsuitable for routes. Click
here for the guide.
In Johannesburg there is
a pretty park with a good bouldering/training venue. Make sure you take
nothing with you except shoes & chalk bag to avoid being mugged. Parking
is also dubious. There are training days see Gyms
& Training. Purely bouldering and traversing. The rock can be quite
sharp but there are a few good problems, not generally for beginners. Mostly
shaded by trees about 50m up from a busy road, well hidden. No guide available
In the southern suburbs
of Johannesburg. There are two subareas, the Dassie Krans being visible
from the Ormonde Drive robots being in a little nature reserve and the
Reservoir being Rand Water Board property in the suburb of Meredale.The
rock is red basalt which has a tendency to be sharp & glassy. There
are a few short 14-19 grade natural routes with a bit more potential for
new routes. Most routes can be toproped, click here
for the guide.
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Please send us any corrections
or new route/area information. Read our Disclaimer