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Johannesburg & Pretoria

Strubens * Northcliff * Melville Koppies * The Wilds * Mondeor * The Keg
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All crags in and around Johannesburg and Pretoria are covered by this index page. Most of these crags are smallish with short routes, mostly sport. The rock is primarily quartsite and sandstone with a few granite boulders strewn about. The Chosspile can be found in the Magaliesberg section. Baviaanspoort and Melville Koppies and a few crags around Roodepoort are still being compiled and should be online in the near future.

Strubens Valley
Access is free and easy. Drive north along Hendrik Potgieter drive, cross over Christiaan de Wet Road, and take the next road to the left which is FredenHarry Drive. Follow this road past a small shopping centre where pizzas or burgers can be eaten on the way back. When you get to a T-junction turn right, pass through a dip and as the road starts to curve rightward at what could have been a T-junction you will see a vacant stand ahead of you, park here. Walk upward slightly to the left on a fairly well defined path. You will see a band of rock to your right (presently undeveloped but open) and then on the left. The sport routes are on the left. Just above this crag there is another crag with several natural routes which were in the process of being bolted. There is a squatter here that does however occupy a few of the best lines through a cave.

There are about 45 bolted routes and another 30 natural routes with some undeveloped potential. Gradings are from 5 - 28. Routes are mainly short, have plenty of bolts and are all on quartsite rock. Click here for the guide. The face sees some sunlight in the morning but is usually shaded in the afternoon being almost east facing. This is an exellent beginner crag.
 
Northcliff Ridge
There are 56 fairly short natural routes and most of them have top anchors so you can top-rope them. The grades vary from 7 to 23. The rock is a hard smooth quartzite. Click here for the guide. Generally free access parking by the eastern water tower. The views over Johannesburg are excellent and during the Jacaranda flowering season the Northcliff area can be very beautiful. Being North facing this crag gets very hot. Take care of broken glass at the base of the crag.
 
Melville Koppies
Easy access 10-20m from the road just of Beyers Naude. There are a few moderate but short routes here. Click here for the guide.

The Keg
Directions are as follows, head to the Little Falls area in Roodepoort, take Ouklip Rd onto Debonnair Street/Road and park near an obvious park entrance to a valley. Walk down the path by the stream over a pipeline. Cross the metal bridge with waterfall on right and look at grass braai area on left where the problems are across the river. (Walk in time - 7 to 10 mins)

There are twelve independent problems on the face with good grassy landings.  Problems range from 4 to 5 metres high and the problems do not top out (even though it is possible on some). The rock is solid in the first 5 metres and then deteriorates higher up making the wall unsuitable for routes. Click here for the guide.
    
The Wilds
In Johannesburg there is a pretty park with a good bouldering/training venue. Make sure you take nothing with you except shoes & chalk bag to avoid being mugged. Parking is also dubious. There are training days see Gyms & Training. Purely bouldering and traversing. The rock can be quite sharp but there are a few good problems, not generally for beginners. Mostly shaded by trees about 50m up from a busy road, well hidden. No guide available as yet.
 
Mondeor
In the southern suburbs of Johannesburg. There are two subareas, the Dassie Krans being visible from the Ormonde Drive robots being in a little nature reserve and the Reservoir being Rand Water Board property in the suburb of Meredale.The rock is red basalt which has a tendency to be sharp & glassy. There are a few short 14-19 grade natural routes with a bit more potential for new routes. Most routes can be toproped, click here for the guide.

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Copyright 2004 SACIN
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