Visit ClimbZA
SAClimb.co.za Home Page
Northcliff Ridge Route Guide

Climb INDEX * Biscuit Area * Norh-West * Northcliff Ridge * Northcliff East

Northcliff offers many natural climbs that mostly have top-rope bolts. The routes are fairly short and climb on hard smooth quartzite, dont forget your chalk! The view from the top of Northcliff Ridge is excellent with the whole of the Northern suburbs of Johannnesburg, Sandton & beyond visible. It is also very beautiful when all the Jacaranda trees are flowering. It gets very hot in the summer and in winter too, being north facing it gets sun most of the day. Bring plenty sun cream & water, a beach umbrella could be good too! Take care not to leave any belongings or gear at the top of the crag or they may grow legs. To access this area head north along DF Malan Drive, branch left onto frederick drive just past the first robot after Northpark Corner. The robot has Hockey Road on the left, take the next fork left. Follow Frederick Drive keeping right until it levels off and swing left into Hearn Drive. After the hairpin bend and a short sharp hill turn right into Louie Lane and then right again into Lucky Lane after 300m. You are now at the water tower, park here. All climbs are listed from Left to Right.

Biscuit Area
This is a small climbing area below High Cliff Road on the Western side of the road. Drive down Frederick Drive past Hearn Drive, keep left. After about 1.4km the road becomes High Cliff Road, about 600m after this point there is a roadside 'catchpit' below some townhouses on the left. A big concrete block on the left and a slight wall help identify the point at which to stop. Walk down the right to the top of the crag. It is an attractive round smooth slab of rock.
. ................................ ..............
WHY ME 20 *** [N,A?]
Climb the left hand side of the Biscuit using the face and edge of the slab.
FINGERPRINT 23 [N,A?]
Start as for BISCUIT DIRECT but then keep left all the way to the top.
BISCUIT DIRECT 22 **** [N,A?]
Climb straight up the centre of the face on exceptionally small holds. The crux being just after a move left is a pull-up on a rounded, small finger hold. Keep to the left as you approach the top.
BISCUIT 18 *** [N,A?]
Move up onto face (crux), move right and up diagonally right using jugs to the top. Move left just below overhang to finish route.

Back to Top * Back to Northcliff Ridge


Norh-West
This is on the short but steep crag below the house on the North-West end of Northcliff Ridge. Walk past the trig beacon to some houses, head down along a fence and continue to the base of the cliffs. Walk left for about 50m to the overhanging faces above Nora Place.
. ................................ ..............
KAKIBOS 15 * [N,A?]
The leftmost chimney. Climb the recess and do a chimney move to gain the small overhang near the top. Careful of the loose block at top.
SURPRISE RIDGE 18 *** [N,A?]
Climb the steep ridge about 5m right of KAKIBOS. Move up on good holds through the overhang/roof.
MUTINY 13 ** [N,A?]
Climb the recess 5m right of SURPRISE RIDGE. Traverse right at the top to avoid the overhang.
FINGERBUSTER 22 **** [N,A?]
Climb the steep (overhanging) face straight to the top. Avoid the ledge on the left. The route is sustained.
PSYCHO 20 * [N,A?]
Climb the steep crack just right of FINGERBUSTER. Tricky flared jams help get you up this one.

Back to Top * Back to Northcliff Ridge


Northcliff Ridge
The main crag below the main water tower, north facing and rather hot in the sun. From the parking go just right of the water tower to the top of the ridge. Walk a few hundred metres left (westward) along the top of the climbs to a scramble that takes you to the base of the cliffs.
. ................................ ..............
NORTHCLIFF LAYBACK 12 [N,A]
Layback the crack just left of ADRENALINE CASCADE until you can exit to the left, and onto the top.
ADRENALINE CASCADE 18 * [N,A]
Climb up the large block about 10m left of BAD BOY'S LESSON. Climb up next to the crack (NORTHCLIFF LAYBACK) until standing about 1.75m above the ground. Traverse 2m right and up to the top.
ADRENALINE CASCADE VARIATION 20 * [N,A]
As for ADRENALINE CASCADE but head straight to the top instead of traversing right.
MANDY 17 [N]
The route starts ibn a set of cracks 2m left of DESTINATION MADNESS. Follow the cracks all the way to the top.
DESTINATION MADNESS 22 ** [N,A]
Find the small and deep overhang. Start here, reach above this overhang and crank the jug. Keep on the front of the buttress to the top.
BAD BOYS LESSON 17 ** [N,A]
This is a very thin, slightly slabby (easy angled) white face just left of BEETLE FACE (overhang on skyline). It is white in colour and has a smal but deep overhang at the base. Start the climb to the right of the overhang, traversee left to get back on top of the overhang. Move up a ridge for 2m and then diagonally left to he top. The crux is at the start of the climb.
BAD BOYS LESSON VARIATION 18 ** [N,A]
Climb the same as BAD BOYS LESSON until you need to move diagonally left, at this point step right and mantleshelf up and continue to the top with an awkard move.
BEETLE FACE 9 ** [N,A]
Climb the attractive face to the left of CHERRY FACE. Keep up the middle up this easy climb.
CHERRY FACE 15 [N,A]
The crack system on the left wall of the chimney provides the handholds for this climb. Climb up using the widely spaced holds. The face on the left round the corner is not part of the route.
NORTHCLIFF CHIMNEY 9 [N,A]
Take the chimney up the deep black recess to the left of BOOMSLANG RIDGE. Exit to the right at the top. This climb is good for novices. The recess at the back of the chimney can be climbed but unfortunately is is dirty with bad rock.
BOOMSLANG RIDGE 13 * [N,A]
3m left of BUTTERFLY is an attractive ridge which winds from side to side. Start of climb is overhanging, climb ridge to top.
BUTTERFLY 17 *** [N,A]
One of the best climbs at Northcliff. 7m left of BELCHER there is a beautiful square overhang which from below looks like a butterfly's wing. Climb grassy recess to the left of the overhang at ground level (a small spike like nose) until you can hand-traverse right to the right corner of the face on an undercut ridge. Climb past last overhang to the top.
REMINISCENSE OF TM 15 [N]
Climb the prominent triangular overhang directly above BUTTERFLY.
BUTTERFLY VARIATION 20 *** [N,A]
Climb as for BUTTERFLY but go up the undercut ridge to the top.
PINEAPPLE 9 [N]
Climb the outside corner left of BELCHER.
BELCHER 20 ** [N,A]
Climb the undercut buttress to the left of CHOCKSTONE CRACK. Climb easily to crux which involves reaching far to the left near the chockstone. Continue up pillar to top. Avoid using the chockstone. There is a hidden handhold which may make the climb easier.
CHOCKSTONE CRACK 12 ** [N,A]
Climb up to below chockstone on left of SKULL FRONTAL. Exit onto face on left and step back into crack, continue easily to the top.
SCULL FRONTAL 21 ** [N,A]
A hard line. The climb uses a very sharp hold high up. Climb the overhanging nose right of CHOCKSTONE CRACK, move to the top using two vita l holds on the left of the nose. The crux was once in days back done with aid (16/A2). Avoid using the side holds and the grade goes up to 22 (bit silly not using them though...)
GRANDADS WALTZ 19 ** [N,A]
This is a classic at Northcliff. It scales the huge black overhangs of the large nose next to COWARD"S RETREAT. Climb up the ridge on the right to a ledge. Continue up ridge to awkward off balance move to gain small square handhold on the front of the ridge. Move left and exit onto foothold on the front of the ridge. Move left and exit onto foothold using a positive sidegrip around corner. Finally climb easily to top.
COWARDS RETREAT 11 * [N,A]
Climb the crack system next to large undercut black nose (GRANDAD'S WALTZ). The start is about 5m to the left of SPIDERMAN'S FACE, up a small smooth open book.
COWARDS RETREAT VARIATION 12 * [N,A]
Climb as for COWARDS RETREAT but branch left at cubbyhole and climb jam crack.
SPIDERMAN FACE 18 * [N,A]
Climb the smooth white face, right of small undercut ridge in corner, to the top not using the crack on the left. The crux is at the top with an 16 variation to the right.
DEVILS CRACK 13 * [N,A]
Ascend easy ground to the left of SWASTIKA and continue up the crack, past overhang, to the top. The crux is the jam-through overhang.
SWASTIKA 15 **** [N,A]
This climb ascends he attractive scooped face to the left of DOOM'S FACE. It provides exposed and delicate climbing. The name of the climb is associated with the swastikas painted on the face. Climb easily to the ledge below the face, above bushes. Traverse right above the overhang and up to small overhanging open book. Traverse to the left and on to the top.
SWASTIKA VARIATION 17 **** [N,A]
Climb as for SWASTIKA but instead of traversing left to the top traverse right.
DOOMS FACE 18 ** [N,A]
Climb up to the ledge below CRACK OF DOOM, then pull over the overhang and climb the slight buttress above, not using the crack on the right. The initial move is the crux (from ledge). The rest of the climb is delicate.
CRACK OF DOOM 17 * [N,A]
Climb easily up to the ledge below a large black crack with hourglass at bottom of it. Climb up the crack to the top, using the faceholds on both sides.
CRACK OF DOOM VARIATION 20 * [N,A]
Climb as for CRACK OF DOOM but climb the crack by jamming only.
PINK FLOYD 23 ** [N,A]
Climb the steep ridge just right of CRACK OF DOOM without venturing onto other routes in the area. The crux is just above the small triangular overhang.
NETTLE FACE RIGHT 18 ** [N,A]
A well known climb including the large overhang to the left of ASUTHA RIDGE. Climb up the small ridge to the right until a very good flake handhold can be reached, then traverse 2m left and climb up the face to the top, this is the crux.
NETTLE FACE DIRECT 22 ** [N,A]
As for NETTLE FACE LEFT but charge straight on to the top without traversing left or right.
ROOF NETTLE 21 ** [N,A]
As for NETTLE FACE LEFT but start by climbing up under the left side of the overhang and reaching around it to join NFL.
ASUTHA RIDGE 12 * [N,A]
This climb started about 1m to the right of the ridge. Climb up to a small ledge, step left and climb up the ridge or continue above the ledge to the top.
PHENOMINAL EXISTENCE 15 * [N,A]
Climb up to the small triangular ledge just right of the ledge on ASUTHA RIDGE. Climb directly up to the top using an opional mantleshelf.
FLAWLESS FACE 23 ** [N,A]
Climb the steep smooth face between MAIDENS TRIUMPH & PHENOMINAL EXISTENCE without using the corner on the left or crack on the right. The first move is especially hard for short climbers. Try avoid the left corner and crack on the right.
MAIDENS TRIUMPH 16 *** [N,A]
Follow the almost vertical finger crack in the midddle of a white face with orange blotches. past two slanting handrails, to the top. On the crux use a finger jam to get above the bottom horizontal crack. This is an good, clean and direct climb.
FRONTIERS OF WAR 19 ** [N,A]
This climb goes up the smooth, narrow face with sloping break 3m up between two cracks which are both off route. The crux is the move to get above the second horizontal crack.
DIRT-AND-TREE BURGER CRACK 12 [N,A]
Climb up the corner, 1m to the right of MAIDEN'S TRIUMPH crack, using the tree for support. About 30cm above the tree (1984) move onto the face on the right and up to the top.
DIRT-AND-TREE BURGER CRACK RECESS 12 [N,A]
Climb as for DATBC but climb into the recess.
BOOGY BULGE 18 [N]
On the upper band of rock. Climb the bulge left of LIZARD, finish on the overhanging outside corner above.
LIZARD 7 [N]
On the upper band of rock. Climb the pillar of rocks to the left of SUNSHINE FACE.
SUNSHINE FACE 9 [N]
On the upper band of rock above MAIDENS TRIUMPH. Climbs up the middle of the slab.
SUNSHINE ARETE 9 [N]
On the upper band of rock above MAIDENS TRIUMPH. This route climbs the righthand edge of the smooth slab on the left of a small gully.

Back to Top * Back to Northcliff Ridge


Northcliff East
This is the small climbing crag below and slighlty to the left (looking up) of the water tower. To get there go down the path from the water tower to the right of Northcliff Ridge area. Scramble down to the base and go right and walk to a buttress with dark overhanging faces at the base. There should be a hairpin bend below this point. EENIE, MEENIE & MINIE are all within 2m of each other.
. ................................ ..............
EENIE 18 * [N,A?]
Climb the first overhanging recess/crack on the left, immediately to the right of some bushes.
MEENIE 18 * [N,1P,A?]
Climb the second overhanging recess moving left after the overhang. A fixed peg is visible near the start.
MINIE 20 ** [N,A?]
Climb the same recess as MEENIE but move right up to the base of a second overhang. Move strenuosly onto the slab above and then to the top.
MO 9 ** [N,A?]
Climb the pleasant face situated to the right of MINIE.

Back to Top * Back to Northcliff Ridge


Back to Top * Back to Home Page





 

ADD TO DEL.ICIO.US   ADD TO DEL.ICIO.US   ADD TO DIGG   ADD TO FURL   ADD TO REDDIT   ADD TO STUMBLEUPON   ADD TO TECHNORATI FAVORITES   ADD TO WINDOWS LIVE   ADD TO YAHOO MYWEB   ADD TO GOOGLE

Copyright 2004 SACIN
Send news, corrections, new routes, adverts etc. to news@saclimb.co.za
Please read our Disclaimer