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Guide for Mondeor

Climb INDEX * Dassie Krans * The Reservoir

Dassie Krans
This is part of a little nature reserve and thus has no access problems. The main crag is visible from the Ormonde Drive robots. To get there follow the M1S Vereeniging signs until reaching the M68 (Columbine/Southgate) off-ramp. Go east for 2km, then turn right at the robots into Ormonde Drive; follow this across the river, until the road turns left; at this interesction, there is a fence, with an opening into a very overgrown vacant lot. Bush-wack up to the crag. West end of main buldge: top-roping from an uneven, glassy ledge; very easy if you head up the gully, a bit more challenging if you venture left onto the face (perhaps 15 or 16). Many other short lines, some you can lead, but top-roping is more common. Last news was that this area is closed off with barbed wire!
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The Reservoir
Being Rand Water Board property you should call for permission. The main crags are above the suburb of Meredale, 3km west of Mondeor) Take the Columbine off-ramp and go through Meredale. The old route, now closed due to to access controls: Take M1 Vereeniging signs past M68 offramp, then take next road (David Street) west; follow it through turns until you come to a road left; first left again, then first or second right; first left brings one to a cul-de-sac, where you park. Go through the Rand Water gate, and follow the road up, until you come to an overhanging buttress, with broken blocks of rock tumbling down a quarry-dump to the one side. This is the main face. There are a couple scarey off-widths further right that may not have been climbed, and one very hard line starting at the base of Bilbo's Way, but moves left to go through the main overhang. There are other, shorter crags above and left of the main face. Several shorter lines offer almost worthwhile climbing.
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STANDARD ROUTE 15 [N]
Avoid main overhang on the left, and follow openbook to top.
First Ascent: Unknown
 
BILBO'S WAY 17,A0 [N,R]
There is a steep, glassy flare-chimney right of the main overhanging. Scare yourself with less than great gear - remember your largest cams for the final bulge (a #4 Camalot fell out on the opening ascent)
First Ascent: 1996 D Morgan & R Weimann
 
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