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Guide for Roadside Boulders

Climb INDEX * Riding Shotgun Crag * The Biscuit Wall * The Black Slab * The Island * Skinless Boulder * Boulder A * Boulder B * Boulder C * Boulder D * The Brain - E * Boulder F * Boulder G * A Pinch of Herbs Boulder - H * Boulder I * Olive's Preserve Cupboard - J * Boulder K * Boulder L * A Question of Balance Boulder - M * Tres Chicas Boulder - N * Boulder O * Boulder P * Boulder Q * Sun Run Boulder - R * Refreshing Boulder - S * Caroline Boulder - T * Boulder U * Pendragon Boulder - V

This area includes several good bolted routes as well as most of the best bouldering developed so far. To access the area drive from the campsite for 3km up hill towards Calvinia, this road is tarred. At the top of the hill you will see a small dirt road/track on your right. With the construction it may look like the parking but there is a little road leading off left running parallel along the main road and then off to the right. This track is about 100m long. You will see a small parking area for 3-4 cars and a gate preventing further access along the road. Follow the road by foot for about 20 minutes until you see the obvious boulders on your right at the base of the hill. There are more sport climbing areas higher up the hill in the Cedar Rouge area.
Riding Shotgun Crag
This is a small wall just off the road before you get to the Roadside Boulders. It should take you about 10 minutes from the parking. There are 3 routes here that are slighlty steep and get afternoon sun. It is also known as the Wild West Wall.
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1. WILD BILL HICKOCK 26 **** [6D,A]
First Ascent: 1994 Paul Schlotfeldt
 
2. RIDING SHOTGUN 23+ **** [6D,A]
Start as for WILD BILL HICKOCK and head slightly right.
First Ascent: 1993 J Gordon
 
3. GERONIMO 24 [6D,A]
First Ascent: 1994 Mike Roberts
 
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The Biscuit Wall
This crag is just to the right of the Wild West Wall with only 2 routes. The wall gets afternoon sun.
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1. BRANDY SNAPS 23 [5D,A]
Goes up the middle of the face.
First Ascent: 1995 Mike Roberts
 
2. VANITY AFFAIR 19 [5D,A]
Head up the right of the face on the left leaning arete.
First Ascent: 1995 R Quick
 
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The Black Slab
This is an obvious black slab just off the road on the walk-in. It is about 15minutes from the parking between the Wild West Wall and The Island on your right. There is just one natural route here with a few variations.
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1. UNNAMED 19 [N]
Follow the crack lines up the black slab heading left or straight up.
First Ascent: Unknown
 
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The Island
The Island has 4 sport routes and is about 16-20minutes walk along the road on your right. This wall also gets afternoon sun.
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1. WET PUPS 16 *** [7D,A]
First Ascent: 1993 Mike Roberts
 
2. UNNAMED 21+ [B,P,A]
Head up on the left side of the face which is just right of a corner.
First Ascent: Jono Fisher
 
3. CASTING ILLUSIONS 19 *** [8D,A]
First Ascent: 1993 Mike Roberts
 
4. THOUGHTLESS WANDERS 18 [8D,A]
First Ascent: 1993 Mike Roberts
 
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Skinless Boulder
This is the large boulder with a steep arete on it's western side. There is just 1 route on this boulder, but a good one.
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1. SKINLESS ARETE 31 **** [5D,A]
A classic route up the steep arete of the large boulder facing more or less west.
First Ascent: 1996 Scott Milton
 
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Boulder A
. ................................ ..............
1. SCHWUPP V8/7B
First Ascent: Apr 1998
 
2. THE VENERABLE YORGI V6/7A ***
Sit start on the east face of a big ramp. Move to a good edge then to a side pull for the left, move a little right to some edges and top out.
 
3. NO NAME V4/6C ****
Traverse right across 3 sides and finish on a slab.
 
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Boulder B
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1. NO NAME V4/6C ***
Sitstart in a caveon good edges, pull up to a flake on the left and top out.
 
2. NO NAME V5/6C+ ***
Sitstart as for B1 and move right before topping out.
 
3. WARMER V5/6C+ ***
Sitstart with two pockets, move up with right and top out.
 
4. SQUEEZED V6/7A?
Starts between Boulder B & Boulder C.
 
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Boulder C
. ................................ ..............
1. NO NAME V3-4/6B
Climb to the left side of the blunt arete then move right.
 
2. NO NAME V3-4/6B
Sit start in the middle of the face from a big jug. Go to the pocket with the right and then up and slightly left to the finish.
 
3. NO NAME V4/6C ***
Sit start to the left of low edges, pull to a big flake on the left.
 
4. NO NAME V6/7A
Start on the right side of this face and straight to the top, if you veer off to the left it gets much easier.
 
5. NO NAME V3/6A
Traverse left to right.
 
6. TESTOSTERONE BOMBER V6/7A
 
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Boulder D
. ................................ ..............
1. KUDU V6/7A ***
Climb the gigh arete.
 
2. NO NAME V3-4/6B **
Climb the high face.
 
3. NO NAME V3-4/6B **
Climb the high face.
 
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The Brain - E
. ................................ ..............
1. THE BRAIN V0/2 **
 
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Boulder F
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1. GADGET V3/6A
Sit start on the right, climb diagonally left.
 
2. CASPER V3/6A+
tart left of GADGET and go straight up.
 
3. NO NAME V2/5+
Sit start low on the left and traverse right to top out.
 
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Boulder G
. ................................ ..............
1. NO NAME V8/7B
Climb the arete. The blocks to the left are off route.
 
2. NO NAME V4/6B+
Blunt arete to the right of B1.
 
3. CRIPPLE V3-4/6B
Sit start from incut holds, traverse rightwards around the corner finishing straight up.
 
4. NO NAME V1/4+
Sit start then follow the arch leftwards.
 
5. NO NAME V2/5
Sit start just right of G4, climb the middle of the slab straight up.
 
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A Pinch of Herbs Boulder - H
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1. BUNS OF STEEL V4/6C ***
Sit start, climb the blunt arete.
 
2. NO NAME V5/6C+
Climb the cracks.
 
3. NO NAME V4/6C **
Climb the arete.
 
4. A PINCH OF HERBS V9-10/7C ****
Start with the left on the edge and jump with the right to the pinch and top out.
 
5. UNE BONNE PIPE V4/6C ****
Climb up the right hand side without using the arete then move left to a pocket and top out.
 
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Boulder I
. ................................ ..............
1. NO NAME V4/6C
Sit start in the middle of the face, use two pinches to move the right hand onto an edge. Use a pocket for the left and jump for the top.
 
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Olive's Preserve Cupboard - J
. ................................ ..............
1. NO NAME V3/6A ***
Sit start on a big rail. Go to the side pull with the left hand and a pocket for the right hand, finish straight up.
 
2. THE SECRET TO OLIVE'S PRESERVE CUPBOARD V8/7B ***
Sit start on a big rail, reach right to a pinch, use a sloping pocket for the left and finisg straight up.
 
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Boulder K
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1. NO NAME V3-4/6B
Sit start on the far right, traverse to the left.
 
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Boulder L
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1. NO NAME V4/6C **
Sit start, use the left hand undercling and reach up right.
 
2. NO NAME V5/6C+ **
Sit start and use double undercling to move up.
 
3. NO NAME V4/6B+ **
Climb the seam.
 
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A Question of Balance Boulder - M
. ................................ ..............
1. GIFTLA V8/7B
Climb the arete left of BABOON MASTER.
 
2. BABOON MASTER V10/7C+ ****
Start just left of a small cedar tree using the high undercling for your left and edge for your right. A sit start project also exists.
 
3. BABOON SITSTART V14/8B?
The sitstart to BABOON MASTER, finishes just right of BABOON MASTER too.
First Ascent: Aug 2002 Fred Nicole
 
4. A QUESTION OF BALANCE V8/7B *****
Start right of the Ceder tree with a good hold for the left, move up to a grip on the right and keep moving diagonally rightward to top out.
 
5. MORE BALANCE V10/7C+ ****
This is the sit start to A QUESTION OF BALANCE. Also know as a MATTER OF POWER. Start with both hands in the undercling.
First Ascent: 2000 Fred Nicole
 
6. OPEN PROJECT
Tiny grips up right, starts just right of QUESTION OF BALANCE.
 
7. TAI CHI V11/8A ****
Start just left of the arete with both hands on the high rail, long pull to a crimp with the right and top out.
First Ascent: Fred Nicole
 
8. SUNSET ARETE V9-10/7C *****
Starts high, shorter people use a cheat-stone to start. Left hand on a triangular hold and right on round crimp high up, top out.
 
9. NUTSA V12/8A+ ****
The sit start to SUNSET ARETE.
First Ascent: 2000 Fred Nicole
 
10. NO NAME V4/6C?
Starts 2m left of TYROLEAN TRAVERSE and traverses diagonally up and left on big grips, quite high.
 
11. TYROLEAN TRAVERSE V8/7B ****
Sit start in a small cave with both hands in a crack. Move up and then right, then traverse left to jugs.
 
12. TREMDEL V5/6C+ ***
Start as for TYROLEAN TRAVERSE, move upward to good grips then a tricky arete instead of traversing left.
 
13. NO NAME V11/8A
 
14. A L'AISE BLAISE V8/7B
In a little parabolic wall behind QUESTION OF BALANCE.
 
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Tres Chicas Boulder - N
. ................................ ..............
1. TRES V4/6B+ ***
Sit start on the left.
 
2. DOS V3-4/6B **
Sit start with hands matched on the lowest hold in the centre.
 
3. UNO V1/4 **
Sit start with big holds on the right.
 
4. NO NAME V3-4/6B
Climb the slab.
 
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Boulder O
. ................................ ..............
1. NO NAME V7/7A+
Sit start and go straight up the crack.
 
2. NO NAME V3/6A
Sit start and traverse right.
 
3. NO NAME V2/5
Sit start, climb on good holds to the top.
 
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Boulder P
. ................................ ..............
1. NO NAME V4/6B+ ***
Sit start on the right of the bushes, climb diagonally up to the right towards the break.
 
2. NO NAME V2/5 *
Sit start just to the right of P1, climb to some good jugs.
 
3. RAVE KING V7/7A+ ***
Sit start right of a tree, traverse to the arete on the right and around the corner.
 
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Boulder Q
. ................................ ..............
1. NO NAME V4/6B+
Climg the small arete.
 
2. NO NAME V4/6C
Climb the high arete.
 
3. NO NAME V3-4/6B
Climb the corner.
 
4. NO NAME V4/6C
Climb the high arete.
 
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Sun Run Boulder - R
. ................................ ..............
1. SUN RUN V4/6C *****
Sit start on the right side of the arete, move up and left onto the arete.
 
2. EXTRA VIRGIN V2/5
Sit start on big holds, traverse slighlty right and top out.
 
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Refreshing Boulder - S
. ................................ ..............
1. NO NAME V4/6C ***
Traverse left to right on good holds, top out as for REFRESHING.
 
2. PROJECT V8/7B
Start left of REFRESHING on sloping diagonal holds.
 
3. REFRESHING V8/7B **
Sit start from a sloping pinch with both hands. Left hand to diagonal edge and straight up.
 
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Caroline Boulder - T
. ................................ ..............
1. NO NAME V6/7A ***
Sit start with both hands on the left arete, traverse right and join SIGI.
 
2. SIGI V4/6C ****
Sit start in the middle a low ramp, move right and up.
 
3. CAROLINE V9-10/7C ****
Sit start with both hands in the crack, use pinches to the top.
 
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Boulder U
. ................................ ..............
1. CREAKING HEIGHTS V4/6C *** [H]
Climb the highball crack/seam. Take care with loose rock at the top.
 
2. NO NAME V8/7B
Sit start with your left hand on a good layaway and your right on an undercling/layaway, move your left to a crimp/gaston then throw for the top.
 
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Pendragon Boulder - V
. ................................ ..............
1. PENDRAGON V11/8A *****
Sit start on a good hold, climb diagonally leftward to a huge jug on the lip.
First Ascent: Apr 1996 Fred Nicole
 
2. ORAL OFFICE V13/8B ****
As for PENDRAGON but finish directly up with a big throw to the top from the good grip in the middle of PENDRAGON.
First Ascent: 1998 Klem Loskott
 
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