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Guide for Fortress Area

Climb INDEX * The Fortress * Black Fortress Boulders * Beached Whale Boulder * Boulder B * Boulder C * Boulder D * Boulder E * Rocket Launcher * Boulder F * Boulder G * Boulder H

Access to this smaller area is the same as for the Roadside area except that as you are walking along the road watch out for the Biscuit & Wild West sport climbing areas to your left, this should be about after 7-10 minutes of walking along the road. Shortly after these areas you will see a cairn marking a path off to the right. Follow this path for about 5 minutes to another cairn positioned on the left of the path. Turn left off the path and take the easy ground up the right hand valley for about 10 minutes following cairns. Before heading left again towards the large buttress being The Fortress. A large cairn is located below 2 obvious large boulders. From here follow the smaller cairns to the top. The buldering area is behind The Fortress and off to the right slighlty.
The Fortress
This is the high wall with a few routes facing mostly northwards.
. ................................ ..............
1. BRAILLE TRAIL 24 [6D,A]
Takes the slab boulder left of the main wall.
First Ascent: 1993 Sean Maasch
 
2. BACKWATER UTOPIA 23+ **** [10D,A]
Up the left side of the main wall.
First Ascent: 1992 Jeremy Samson
 
3. MAGIC MUSHROOMS 28 [10D,A]
Straight up on the left wall just right of the corner.
First Ascent: 1994 Sean Maasch
 
4. SOVIET DANCER 26 [9D,A]
Starts as for MAGIC MUSHROOMS and then heads slighlty right.
First Ascent: 1993 Sean Maasch
 
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Black Fortress Boulders
Three boulders at present a short walk left from The Fortress boulders, about 150m or so.
. ................................ ..............
1. WHITE MEN CAN'T JUMP V12/8A
First Ascent: Apr 1998 Klem Loskott
 
2. TEKNOMAJIKAL V5/6C+
First Ascent: Apr 1998
 
3. PILLIPALLI V3/6A
First Ascent: Apr 1998
 
4. FROM THE SECRET LABORATORY V6/7A
First Ascent: Apr 1998
 
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Beached Whale Boulder
. ................................ ..............
1. L'ANGELOT INCREDULE V9-10/7C
First Ascent: Apr 1998
 
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Boulder B
. ................................ ..............
1. CARNAL CRAVINGS V10/7C+
First Ascent: Apr 1998
 
2. KRAP THE CONQUEROR V3-4/6B ***
Sit start from sharp holds for 3m to the left of COLIN THE LIBRARIAN, move right to a rounded hold for the right hand, up left to finish on the slab.
First Ascent: Dec 1996 Evan Wiercx
 
3. COLIN THE LIBRARIAN V6/7A ****
Opposite the small boulder B you should see a rail that is not as solid as you might wan't it. Start with both hands on the left side of this, traverse right on smallish holds and then directly up on rounded holds, traverse left onto boulder B.
First Ascent: Dec 1996 Evan Wiercx
 
4. KILLER WHALE V4/6C ****
Starts as for BEACHED WHALE, rather than traversing right finish directly with a dyno to a large pocket and then traverse right a bit to finish.
First Ascent: Dec 1996 Evan Wiercx
 
5. BIG TUNA V5/6C+ ***
Climbs the eliminate between BEACHED WHALE & KILLER WHALE.
First Ascent: Dec 1996 K. Mellalieu
 
6. BEACHED WHALE V3-4/6B ****
Sit start in the corner by the back of the cave/roof. Climb the right hand side of the corner then through the roof, traversing right.
First Ascent: Dec 1996 K. Mellalieu
 
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Boulder C
. ................................ ..............
1. ESMARELDA V1/4 **
Bum start beneath the obvious crack with a hand-jam to start.
First Ascent: Apr 1998
 
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Boulder D
. ................................ ..............
1. GROUND CONTROL V5/6C+ ****
Sit start straddling the boulder in the back of the cave. Climb the roof and feet on the right hand wall to the underclings, go left on fairly good holds and get above the roof to finish.
First Ascent: Dec 1996 Evan Wiercx
 
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Boulder E
. ................................ ..............
1. CHOCOLATE TORTILLA V2/5- ***
Bumstart below an arete on the left of the wall. Climb through a steep section using a sloper on the right to a large flat grip on the left, finish up the right hand side of the arete.
First Ascent: Jan 1997 Andy Davies
 
2. NO NAME V1/4 **
Sit start in the middle of the boulder and straight up.
First Ascent: Jan 1997 Andy Davies
 
3. DUCK A LA KING V3/6A ***
Start as for E4, traverse from right to left, past the break to CHOCOLATE TORTILLA.
First Ascent: Jan 1997 Jason Whyte
 
4. NO NAME V2/5+ **
Sit start on the right hand side of a low rail to the left of the 'duck head'. Traverse to the left towards a vertical break, climb up this to a stance.
First Ascent: Jan 1997 Evan Wiercx
 
5. DUCK L'ORANGE V3-4/6B ****
Sit start, left hand on an inverted 'duck head', climb through the roof to a pocket and finish on a slab. The weird duck-shaped formation and the orange roof gave this problem it's name.
First Ascent: Dec 1996 Evan Wiercx
 
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Rocket Launcher
. ................................ ..............
1. MUCH ADO ABOUT NOTHING V8-9/7B+
First Ascent: Apr 1998
 
2. ROCKETLAUNCHER 29 [B?]
A single route amongst the bouldering.
First Ascent: Apr 1998
 
3. SCHWENG V6/7A
First Ascent: Apr 1998
 
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Boulder F
. ................................ ..............
1. ARMED RESPONSE V13/8B
Sit start from a good sidepull and go up to a gaston and then onto the top.
First Ascent: Apr 1998 Klem Loskott
 
2. NO NAME V4/6B+ ***
Sit start below the arete with your left hand on a small sidepull and your right on a very small gaston, climb the arete and top out.
First Ascent: Jan 1997 Evan Wiercx
 
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Boulder G
. ................................ ..............
1. SUPA APE INNA JUNGEL V5/6C+
First Ascent: Apr 1998
 
2. DESPERADO V13/8B
Sit start, trend right without the use of the boulder behind this one.
First Ascent: Apr 1998 Klem Loskott
 
3. NO NAME V3/6A+ **
Sit start in the middle of the wall, start right on a small crimp and with your left hand on a small edge, climb up a bit and then traverse right, cross over to a sloper for the left hand, reach far right to a good hold then finish.
First Ascent: Jan 1997 Evan Wiercx
 
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Boulder H
. ................................ ..............
1. UNDER MY THUMB V9-10/7C
Could be a V10/7C+.
First Ascent: Apr 1998
 
2. STARGATE V10/7C+ ****
Sit start with your right hand on good holds under the roof and your left on a flat hold on the left wall, move up and then left via a finger slot to some crimps on the vertical section, finish to the left.
First Ascent: Apr 1998
 
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