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Guide for Ceder Rouge Area

Climb INDEX * The Leopard Cave * Boulder A * Cedar Rouge Boulder * Boulder B * Black Eagle Boulder * Outback Area * Cattle Rustler Area * Orange Plasma Wall * The Sun Block

This large boulder can be seen near the top of the hill to the left when looking up from the Roadside Boulders. There are a few classic routes here as well as a few awesome boulder problems such as 'Black Eagle' and 'Leopard Cave'. The hardest problem in SA and possibly in the world is the sitstart to Black Eagle opened by Fred Nicole! There is a path leading up from the left of the Roadside Boulders up the hill to the Cedar Rouge boulder. The bouldering is mostly behind this boulder and on the Black Eagle boulder which you pass just before you get to the Cedar Rouge boulder.
The Leopard Cave
A low cave further south from the Cedar Rouge boulder.
. ................................ ..............
1. LEOPARD CAVE V12/8A+ ****
Start on some good edges a third of the way along the roof, climb on small edges to the lip and top out. Stay off the other boulder until you are over the lip. Climbs the orange, slightly broken roof.
First Ascent: 1996 Fred Nicole
 
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Boulder A
The small boulder next and behind the Cedar Rouge boulder.
. ................................ ..............
1. NO NAME V10/7C+ ***
Start sitting back in the cave and climb slighlty right to a hold and then left on little edges to a pocket and then to the top.
First Ascent: 1996
 
2. NO NAME V5/6C **
Start as for A1 but go right and finish above the tree.
First Ascent: 1996
 
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Cedar Rouge Boulder
This is the prominent big boulder with a few classic routes on the one side & some boulder problems on the other.
. ................................ ..............
1. NO NAME V9-10/7C ***
Start standing on a big block to the left of the cave then match hands on the undercling, lift feet of the block and go to a side pull with the left, dyno to the edge close to the lip and top out on the right.
First Ascent: 1996
 
2. SPIDER ON THE ROOF V10/7C+ ****
Called 'Une Araignee dans le Plafond'. Start on big holds half way out to the right of the cave, head to the lip without the boulder on your right and top out.
First Ascent: 1996
 
3. STEAK HOUSE V13/8B ***
Start standing on two sloping grips in the roof and climb into SPIDER IN THE ROOF.
First Ascent: 1997 Klem Loskott
 
4. CHENIN BLANC 23 *** [7D,A]
It is recommended to stick clip the first bolt. Head up and then left around the arete.
First Ascent: 1993 A Lainis
 
5. CHATEAU WAGA WAGA 27 *** [9D,A]
Start as for CHENIN BLANC but stay on the arete.
First Ascent: 1993 Jono Fisher
 
6. CEDAR ROUGE 24 **** [7D,A,R]
Probibly the first bolted route at Rocklands, a classic too. The bolts are not very good, take care. The chains are shared with SAUVINGNON PLONK & BUKKETRAUBE.
First Ascent: 1992 Paul Schlotfeldt
 
7. SAUVINGNON PLONK 26 *** [7D,A]
Shares anchors with CEDAR ROUGE & BUKKETRAUBE.
First Ascent: 1993 J Gordon
 
8. BUKKETRAUBE 24 **** [8D,A]
Shares anchors with CEDAR ROUGE & SAUVINGNON PLONK.
First Ascent: 1993 Paul Schlotfeldt
 
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Boulder B
A little higher and to the right is a boulder, smaller than the Cedar Rouge boulder.
. ................................ ..............
1. NO NAME V5/6C **
Start as for B2 and go straight up.
First Ascent: 1996
 
2. NO NAME V9/7B+ ***
A bumstart on the left, traverse low to your right and then finish straight up.
First Ascent: 1996
 
3. NO NAME V9-10/7C **
Start sitting low on the right with a big dyno, top out.
First Ascent: 1996
 
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Black Eagle Boulder
This is the boulder with a narrow base that you get to first when approaching the area from the Roadside Boulders, it has a flat rocky base and is on the same level as the Cedar Rouge boulder.
. ................................ ..............
1. DIRTBALL V4/6C+ *
Bumstart from a sloper just left of BLACK EAGLE, climb on edges and knob to the top.
First Ascent: 1996
 
2. BLACK EAGLE V13/8B ****
Classic and aesthetic problem. Start on a tiny edge with your left hand and a sloper for your right, make a long dyno with your right hand for a pockety edge and move left to a jug and then to the top. Upgraded now that a key foothold broke off!
First Ascent: 1996 Fred Nicole
 
3. BLACK EAGLE SITSTART V15/8C ****
The sitstart has been a long-term project of Fred Nicole and now goes at a proposed V15! This makes it one of the 3 hardest boulder problems in the world.
First Ascent: 2002 Fred Nicole
 
4. STEGASAURUS V4/6B
Traverse on strange plates on the north east side of the boulder. Envigorating, or is that scary.
First Ascent: 1996
 
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Outback Area
This crag is a bit higher and round the back of the Cedar Rouge boulder. Some routes get morning sun & others afternoon sun.
. ................................ ..............
1. BILLY THE KID 21+ **** [9D,A]
First Ascent: 1994 D Shewell
 
2. STRANGER THAN TECHNICIANS 28 *** [11D,A]
First Ascent: 1994 Andrew de Klerk
 
3. LONE RANGER 17 [6D,A]
This route is a bit further along from the other two routes.
First Ascent: 1995 Tony Lourens
 
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Cattle Rustler Area
Access as for Cedar Rouge and then walk along the base of the cliffs for a short while to the right. The crag gets afternoon sun.
. ................................ ..............
1. CATTLE RUSTLER 20 **** [8D,A]
First Ascent: 1994 D Shewell
 
2. SIDEWINDER 26 [8D,A]
First Ascent: 1995 Sean Maasch
 
3. RUBIK'S CUBE 19 **** [8D,A]
First Ascent: 1992 Mike Roberts
 
4. CROCKETT ROCKET 22 [7D,A]
First Ascent: 1994 Dave Davies
 
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Orange Plasma Wall
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1. ORANGE PLASMA 21 **** [10D,A]
First Ascent: 1993 A Lainis
 
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The Sun Block
The sunblock area is a bit further along just right of the Orange Plasma area and also gets afternoon sun.
. ................................ ..............
1. ALTO ROUGE 27 *** [8D,A]
First Ascent: 1993 Paul Schlotfeldt
 
2. BLOCKOUT 26 [9D,A]
First Ascent: 1994 Andy de Klerk
 
3. COPPERTONE 28 [10D,A]
First Ascent: 1994 Andy de Klerk
 
4. FACTOR 15 29 **** [7D,A]
First Ascent: 1992 Todd Skinner
 
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