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Guide for The Railway Crags

Climb INDEX * Last Crag of the Century * The Right Lines * Toon Town * The Wild Side

These crags are the continuation of The Railway Tunnel Crag (WB Wall). They start with the Last Crag of the Century and then after the tunnel exits on the east side you get The Right Lines, previously known as The East End. Toon Town continues on the right. These crags cannot be missed after driving through the tunnel on the N4 towards Nelspruit, they will be visible for 2-3km on the left. There is new development on these crags again with some long impressive lines still waiting to be developed. Please respect any eagles or other birds of prey by staying away from their nesting areas. There is plenty of rock for both them & climbers. Please email any new routes to routes@saclimb.co.za so that we can keep this guide up to date.
Last Crag of the Century
This crag follows on rightward from The Railway Tunnel crag. It is was also known as The Left Lines. Routes on this crag are mostly over 30m long so please take care and be sure to tie a knot in the end of your rope! From the Railway Tunnel crag (WB Wall) you will see rap chains in the gully which you can use to access the crag by rapping down and then walking along the base. You can also follow a path along the top of the crags and rap in (tie knots in the rope, you may need upto 80m of rope in places here!) To exit either do a risky solo up the same gulley, top out on one of the routes or walk all the way along the base rightwards until you get to the railway tunnel exit on the east side (the start of The Right Lines), walk back through the tunnel (with your ears wide open). This crag was first developed around the 31st December 1999.
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SPORT CLIMBING IS DEAD 18 **** [N]
An obvious crack about 20 m right of the WB gully. The route is about 35m long.
First Ascent: Volker Schweinbenz & Clinton Whaits Dec 1999
 
ELECTRIC AVENUE 17 *** [9D,A]
A few steepish moves upto the anchors and the start of the next route.
First Ascent: Glenn Harrison 2000
 
ELECTRIC AVENUE EXTENTION 23 *** [9D,A]
Climb ELECTRIC AVENUE to a ledge, the climb starts here.
First Ascent: Glenn Harrison 2000
 
ENDLESS SUMMER 22 ***** [14D,A]
Technical moves on good holds. It gets harder if you don't move out right after the last bolt. An excellent and long 35+m route.
First Ascent: Glenn Harrison Dec 1999
 
SUPERFLY 23 *** [17D,A]
The line just right of ENDLESS SUMMER.
First Ascent: Glenn Harrison 2000
 
GOOD TIMES 23+ **** [17D,A]
Technical face climbing with a thin crux. The route is fairly sustained too. This climb is 40m long, be prepared to top out or lower off a single bolt!
First Ascent: Glenn Harrison Dec 1999
 
FUDGE BEATS BURFEE 25 [10D,A]
First Ascent: Gustav van Rensburg 2000
 
AS THE WORLD DISAPPEARS 26 **** [13D,A]
Long 35m route, steep and sustained with great photo opportunities.
First Ascent: Volker Schweinbenz Dec 1999
 
CAFFEINE JITTERS 13 [N]
1 13 18m Scramble up the bushy slab just right of 'As the world Dissapears' and head for the two protruding trees.
2 13 15m Climb the awesome fist sized crack to the top.
First Ascent: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, Chris Jansen Jun 2001
 
TRIPPIN' ON LIFE PROJECT [B,A]
Glenn Harisson's project.
 
TO CRACK OR NOT TO CRACK 20 [N]
1 20 20m Start on the corner below the obvious layback crack left of 'Who's Your Daddy'. Climb out underneath the undercut flake using RP's and up to the obvious ledge.
2 14 12m Climb cracks straight to the top on good pro.
First Ascent: Gustav Janse van Rensburg, Chris Jansen Jun 2001
 
WHO'S YOUR DADDY? 18 **** [12D,A]
A nice long warm-up. Take your longest 60m rope!
First Ascent: Alexandrine Janse van Rensburg Dec 1999 BB: Dino Santoro
 
THE THREE MOSQUITOS 21 **** [18D,A]
Just left of the big corner. A little crack, face and roof climbing. You can top out on this route and hike down along the trail back towards the mouth of the tunnel. So end your day with this line if you still have something left in your veins to carry you up 40m! This route was opened on 13 bolts!
First Ascent: Thulani Mazibuko Dec 1999
 
UNTERWEGSNACH HAUS 24 ** [13D,A]
Just right of the arete, 38m long.
First Ascent: Volker Schweinbenz Dec 1999
 
WISH YOU WERE HERE 23 *** [13D,A]
Share the first couple of bolts with UNTERWEGSNACH HAUS, then out right.
First Ascent: Volker Schweinbenz Dec 1999
 
NATURE OF BEING 21 *** [9D,A,R]
Ever so slightly run out!!!
First Ascent: Volker Schweinbenz Dec 1999
 
Back to Top * Back to Waterval Boven

The Right Lines
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TRAIN MASSACRE 25 *** [8D,A]
From the ACRA parking walk through the active train tunnel. As one exits the tunnel on the east side there is a blackish wall on the left. Climb the line just right of the tracks to the chains.
First Ascent: Gary Lotter 1991
 
BOIPATONG 19 *** [N]
6m right of the fence (right of TRAIN MASSACRE). Up to a break, up face, out left onto a slab, out right (#1 rock behind flake) up to roof, traverse right and up to a ledge. Ab off tree 15m right.
First Ascent: M Loewe, S Hofmeyr 1992
 
Back to Top * Back to Waterval Boven

Toon Town
Toon Town consists of the west-facing crags overlooking the railway after it exits from the Tunnel. They are visible before the turnoff to Boven. After passing through the tunnel on the N4, driving towards Nelspruit drive for 2-3km. Pass the '5 Arches Bridge' turnoff and a deep cutting, there is a dirt and partly concreted road turning off left, down across the river and up the hill on the other side. After the steepest hill, there is a sharp turn up left (dirt) and after another 200m this meets the railway lines at right angles. Turn left and follow the road until the end, below the cliffs. Slog 10 minutes up the hill. On the left is an impressive face with a beautiful fingercrack, MANNENBURG. The next west face to the left has a seam, THE COLOR PURPLE bounded by 2 wider cracks. The arete to the right is DAY OF DECIMATION. The next major south face left of COLOR PURPLE is taken by AFRICAN ODYSSEY. Most of these routes are trad but there are a few sport lines and plenty potential for more bolted lines.
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TOPLESS SKATEBOARD NUN 22+ ** [N]
About 50m left of AFRICAN ODYSSEY, are some big roofs halfway up the crag. Start up the obvious crack below these and traverse left on the ledge until you are below the left hand end of the roof. Climb the crack to the roof. Pull through the cubby hole onto the slab (crux needs friend #0) and follow the crack to the top.
First Ascent: A Russel-Boulton 1992
 
UNDER A CHOKING SUN 19 *** [N,R]
4m right of TOPLESS SKATEBOARD NUN. Up orange face moving right to ledges and up a big shallow corner (crux) to grassy ledge. Finish up crack on right. Rather gearless!
First Ascent: M Loewe, A Lainis 1992
 
AFRICAN ODYSSEY 25 *** [13D,A]
Starting towards the left, follow the bolts into the centre of the face, then up a crack to finish. Take your thinnest fingers.
First Ascent: Andrew Lainis 1992
 
LITTLE MAN'S COMPLEX 22 ** [N,2B,A]
Climb the corner, moving left onto the slab and up to the coldshuts.
First Ascent: M Loewe 1992
 
RACHEL AND REBECCA 18 *** [N]
The short but good-looking corner left of the arete project.
First Ascent: C Curson, B Marcus, L Waldman 1992
 
OPEN PROJECT 27+ [N,A]
The shortish arete 30m right of AFRICAN ODYSSEY. May be 26-28. Only has chains. This is Russel-Boulton's old project.
First Ascent: BB: A Russel-Boulton
 
PUSS IN BOOTS 26 * [N,3B,A,R]
Climb the middle of the wall 2.5m right of the OPEN PROJECT. 30m right of AFRICAN ODYSSEY. The 3rd clip is tricky, a gripper, clipper, whipper - ground fall. Use the chains on the arete.
First Ascent: Brett Clarke 1992
 
NIGHT OF THE CRASH TEST DUMMIES 17 ** [N]
The biggest crack line on the left. Traverse slightly right at the top to exit.
First Ascent: A Russel-Boulton 1991
 
THE COLOUR PURPLE 23 **** [N]
Trad climb, no bolts. On the west-facing wall to the right are 3 cracks. The left one goes at about 15. The seam in the middle is THE COLOUR PURPLE. Vertical but tricky - may be 22 for tall dudes.
First Ascent: Jeremy Colenso, Ian Manson 1991
 
ECCENTRICA GALLUMBITZ 20 *** [N]
Trad climb, no bolts. The wider crack just to the right.
First Ascent: 1991
 
DAY OF DECIMATION 26 *** [N,3B,A]
The arete right of the 3 cracks. A few pieces of fixed gear may one day be supplemented - permission has been granted!
First Ascent: Stewart Middlemiss 1992
 
BLACK PLANET 20 *** [N]
Trad climb, no bolts. Around the arete to the right of the 3 cracks are 2 subsiduary corners. The right hand one is not too pleasant (grade - 22/23). The left is BLACK PLANET.
First Ascent: Clive Curson, Barbara Marcus 1992
 
DARK STAR 20 * [N]
1. 20 Climb the right corner. Exiting left.
2. 23 Optional pitch but not recommended. Move back right to the corner.
First Ascent: Clive Curson 1992
 
MANNENBURG 25 **** [N]
Start 4m right of the corner, climb the short face to below the roof, turn this and climb the crack to the top.
First Ascent: Ian Manson, R Uken 1992
 
WHITE ARSES 17 ** [4D,A]
Behind the approach boulders 10m left of the Happy Acres Block. This is the line of ring bolts to the left of the obvious right- slanting crack.
First Ascent: Kohle 1993
 
SLANTING CRACK 14 * [N]
Climb the rightward slanting crack.
First Ascent: Unknown.
 
THE LIGHTNESS OF BEING 25 ** [5D,A]
The line of ringbolts to the right of the crack.
First Ascent: M Jager 1993
 
KIMOSABE THE MUSIC'S STARTING 15 ** [N]
A finger crack up the on-balance wall, opposite the cave. Starts just right of the short, obvious layback crack.
First Ascent: A Russel-Boulton 1991
 
ROGER STRIKES BACK 24 *** [9D,A]
Starts 6m left of the offwidth, DEATH BY BANDA just left of HAPPY ACRES CAVE. Go thinly up a seam, then up right until able to go up and back leftwards to loweroffs near the arete.
First Ascent: Clive Curson 1992
 
DEATH BY BANDA 23 **** [N]
Climbs the obvious off-width crack as one enters the Happy Acres Cave. A fighting pitch of considerable merit and suitable for the whole family. Take along 4 friends in the range #3.5 to #4.
First Ascent: Stewart Middlemiss, C Lomax 1992
 
THE IMMACULATE MISCONCEPTION 21 [N]
Climbs the crack line inside the cave.
First Ascent: A Russel-Boulton 1992
 
HAPPY ACRES CAVE 3 *** [N]
Opened on-sight without a torch. Goes through behind the Happy Acres Boulder.
First Ascent: A Russel-Boulton 1991
 
CHAMPION BARBED-WIRE HURDLER 19 * [N]
Located in the 'room' behind Happy Acres Boulder. Start below the large open book on the boulder. Climb past a roof to a ledge at 5m. Traverse 2m left and up the diagonal crack, to exit past hollow flakes.
First Ascent: Russ Dodding, Gordon Erens 1992
 
THOMPSON & THOMPSON 16 * [N]
Situated on the Happy Acres Boulder, opposite DEATH BY BANDA.
First Ascent: Unknown
 
TRAMPLEPATH 20 ** [5D,A]
Another line of bolts, on the left of the Happy Acre Boulder.
First Ascent: German Raiders 1993
 
WHISTLE STOP 17 * [N]
On railway side of boulder. Start in a small corner 5m right of the edge of the boulder, below the obvious broad crack line. Climb the crack.
First Ascent: Gordon Erens, Russ Dodding 1992
 
MINNIE MOUSE MENOPAUSE 22 *** [N,2B]
On the south face of the boulder. The slab with two bolts right of the big chimney crack. Take along a #2 friend.
First Ascent: A Russel-Boulton 1992
 
FRED'S CORNFLAKE COLLECTION 14 ** [N]
Climb the big flake line right of MINNIE MOUSE MENOPAUSE.
First Ascent: A Gillet, A Russel-Boulton 1992
 
KILL THE WABBIT 14 * [N]
Climbs the on-balance wall right of FRED'S CORNFLAKE COLLECTION. Move right towards the arete to the broken crack half way up, then straight up.
First Ascent: A Gillet, A Russel-Boulton 1992
 
LASER MISSION PROJECT 25+ [B]
On the face just left of the Happy Acres Boulder is a prominent flake/crack, THE BART MAN. This project is the line of bolts to the left.
First Ascent: BB: John Orrock
 
THE BART MAN 18 *** [N]
Situated on the main wall on the south side of the Happy Acres Boulder. The obvious flake line left of the chimney.
First Ascent: A Russel-Boulton, A Gillet 1992
 
IT'S NO BULLDOG 22 [N]
The obvious think crack line left of SOMETHING UNDER THE BED IS DROOLING.
First Ascent: Ian Guest 1992
 
SOMETHING UNDER THE BED IS DROOLING 20 ** [N]
The short crack behind the pinnacle. Seam on left, long crack on right.
First Ascent: A Russel-Boulton 1992
 
DOPEY DOES DE AAR 16 [N]
Still no sign of Dopey. Somewhere out there does he lurk.
First Ascent: A Russel-Boulton 1992
 
PINK PANTHER SE PILLAR 17+ [N]
The climb follows the overhanging crack up the back of the pillar, opposite SOMETHING UNDER THE BED IS DROOLING.
First Ascent: G Laurens, F van der Linder 1992
 
PALM IT OFF 24 ** [8D,A]
Right of the BART MAN flake is a short pillar against the face. Next to this you may find this climb.
First Ascent: Ian Guest 1992
 
Back to Top * Back to Waterval Boven

The Wild Side
A small crag right of Toon Town with a few natural lines. Cool in the morning.
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NO NAME 22 ***
 
EASY STREET 16 ** [N]
Start from the cave/recess and climb the left break on the prominent wall.
First Ascent: G Laurens, Dave Walden, R van Wyk 1993
 
FLIES ON THE BACK OF A COW 18 *** [N]
Start a few metres right of EASY STREET and climb the right break on the prominent wall.
First Ascent: G Laurens, Dave Walden, R van Wyk 1993
 
MOON DREAMER 20 ** [N]
On the next wall to the right. Climb the line just right of the recess finishing up the left leaning break.
First Ascent: G Laurens, Dave Walden 1993
 
SLOTH ON THE LOOSE 22 ** [N]
The object is the nice looking headwall up on the right. Start a few metres right of MOON DREAMER and climb up to the headwall. Follow the neat line to the top.
First Ascent: G Laurens, Dave Walden 1993
 
Back to Top * Back to Waterval Boven

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