Visit ClimbZA
SAClimb.co.za Home Page
Guide for The Gorge Area

Climb INDEX * ZAZM Tunnel Entrance * The Junkyard * Acra Wall * Railway Tunnel

The area has some stunning views of a lush gorge, with the Waterval Boven waterfall and superb rock. This was where the classic photograph of SORCERY with the waterfall in the background was taken. Many people opened routes here a few years ago but it does not see much traffic now. There is still plenty of potential for development on the kilometres of cliff. Watch out for theft and muggings in this whole area. Enquire with Roc n Rope for safe transport to and from the crags.
ZAZM Tunnel Entrance
East facing with morning sun, this crag is about 20m high. Park at the east end of the N4 tunnel, walk back along the old road to the entrance of the ZAZM tunnel.
. ................................ ..............
TREE LOVE 17 *** [N]
15m left of the tunnel. Climb the tangle of overhanging roots to a stance. Up corner for 2m then right and up the cracks, exit on slab to right.
First Ascent: M Loewe, Mike Cartwright, F Botha 1992
 
TETROGRAD RAT AND THE YEOVILLE DIVA 22 *** [N]
Climb the tangle of overhanging roots to a stance 5m right of TREE LOVE's rock start. Climb the corner through a roof, 3m right of the prow. Exits up left groove/ chimney.
First Ascent: Mike Cartwright, M Loewe 1992
 
Back to Top * Back to Waterval Boven

The Junkyard
The crags opposite The Last Crag of The Century, they are effectively on the outside of the old ZAZM tunnel. To get there, park on the east side of the new Tunnel. There is usually a 'guard' there who will watch your car. Walk through the old Tunnel (with a torch), then turn right and walk back along the base for 200m. You can also from the old road take the tourist path on the outside of the tunnel along the crag. There is potential for several routes here still.
. ................................ ..............
JUST BEFORE BREAKFAST 18 ** [N]
On the furthermost lefthand side of the crag, right by a small gully there is an obvious crack.
First Ascent: Volker Schweinbenz & Gustav Janse van Rensburg Dec 1999
 
EASTSOLOING 15 [N]
Climb the arete on the opposite side of the pinnacle to COMING OF PRIDE.
First Ascent: M Jager 1992
 
SOUTH CORNER 15 [N]
Climb the recess of the right of the pillar on the river side of the pinnacle.
First Ascent: R Johler 1992
 
STYLING 17 ** [N]
Climbs the arete left of COMING oF PRIDE.
First Ascent: R Kohler 1992
 
COMING OF PRIDE 17 * [N]
Climbs the crack up the front of the free-standing pinnacle. (The waterfall lurks behind you while climbing.)
First Ascent: M Brunke, Stewart Middlemiss 1991
 
BOA RODEO 31 [N]
First Ascent: May 2004 Jens Richter
 
OUT OF GERMANY 23 ** [4D,N]
The line and the view of the falls are stunning. The climbing doesn't quite match this. You need friends #.5, #2.5 and some lower-offs.
First Ascent: R Jager 1993
 
LITTLE BITCH 24 * [B,N]
Climbs the wall around to the right of OUT OF GERMANY.
First Ascent: M Jager 1992
 
NO NAME 13 [N]
1. 11 Climb tree for 5m, step over to face.
2. 13 Move through overlap up from ledge.
First Ascent: Gustav van Rensburg, Thulani Jun 2000
 
Back to Top * Back to Waterval Boven

Acra Wall
Indeed an absolutely awesome area! Pictures of the wall have appeared in most of the best climbing mags in the world, as well as on posters and bookcovers. It certainly merits more attention. The wall faces approximately south, so it gets no sun in winter and a few hours on summer mornings. It is about 30m high but most routes start on a ledge 5m up. Most routes will need brushing unless they have been recently climbed. The rock quality, length of routes and views make it the most stunning wall at The Restaurant. Only God No! Wall is as stunning, but that does not have the views. To get there we recommend driving back towards the main road to Nelspruit (N4) from Boven. Turn right onto this road, towards Nelspruit. Drive a few kilometres until you pass through a tunnel, park directly on your left as you get through the tunnel. There is usuall a 'guard' here to watch your car. Walk through the old Zazm tunnel (with a torch) back along the N4. Turn right down a slope to cross the river before it becomes the waterfall. A big jump may be required here or to avoid this jump walk over the bridge first and then back down the other side. Walk on past a parking spot & track leading to it. This is the proper parking but local 'shoppers' like cars & their contents. To get to this parking by car drive towards Boven from the campsite. At the stop street continue down towards the station, and take a right into First Avenue. Go straight at a nominal stopsign and left at a T-junction just over 1km from the station. After 600-700m take a left down a rough dirt track across a low level bridge, keeping right at a fork. The track goes under the N4 bridge on the Elands river bank and ends at a turning circle. To get down to the ACRA wall, rap 25-30m down from chains in a slot at the top to swing into a ledge 5m above the base. The first 2 routes start at the base (30-35m down). To exit from the ledge other than by climbing, rap down another 25m to the ground, hike right for 60m and scramble up the steep rocky gully to the top (WB graffiti wall on right). Packs & gear left on top also make the 'shoppers' happy, (rather clip your packs on a bolt or two down a climb). The inconvenience of the 'shoppers' is worth it considering the stunning wall of rock.
. ................................ ..............
URISK THE RUSTIC BROWNIE 22+ [11D,A]
The first line to the left of the waterfall when facing downstream. Rap down to anchors and climb back out.
First Ascent: Gustav van Rensburg 2000 (BB Alan Jarvis)
 
SORCERY 25R **** [N,R]
Awesome line - famous for the photo opportunity with the waterfall in the background. Starting just left of the arete, climb it. Take care, protection is not abundant!
First Ascent: Mike Cartwright 1991
 
SATAN'S TEMPLE 29 ***** [14D,A]
Starts just right of the arete at ground level. The route may need brushing unless it has been recently climbed. But this is an awesome climb in an awesome place.
First Ascent: Stefan Glowacz March 1995 BB: Grant Murray
 
UNLIMITED POWER 27 ***** [10D,A]
Starts from the chains on the left of the ledge. You need a 60m rope to reach this comfortably from the top chains; with a 50m it can be reached from the lower set of chains 5m down. Climb steeply up left to the headwall. Continue up a break to chains.
First Ascent: Grant Murray 1991
 
SCREAMING BLUE MESSIAH 26 **** [N]
Trad line - no bolts. From the chains at the left edge of the ledge, head slightly right into the obvious break. Keep going.
First Ascent: Gary Lotter 1991
 
SOMETHING ESOTERIC 24 **** [N,3B,A]
The next crack right of SCREAMING BLUE MESSIAH, about 4m right of the first corner. Zap up to chains. It is possible to access these by scrambling (10-11?) in from the top, but watch it...
First Ascent: Gary Lotter 1991
 
JITTERBUG PERFUME 25 *** [N,2B,A]
The corner. The 2 existing bolts are not well placed (this & the last 2 routes will hopefully be retrobolted one day soon). Top out just right of the crack.
First Ascent: Gary Lotter 1991
 
A MIXTURE OF FRAILTIES 25 **** [10D,A]
Start at chains on the ledge right of the corner. Climb up easy-ish ground heading a bit left. Then it gets harder...
First Ascent: Grant Murray 1991
 
YOU TOO BRUTUS 27 ***** [12D,A]
From the chains climb up and thinly right. Climb through the overlaps to the chains
First Ascent: Grant Murray 1992
 
Back to Top * Back to Waterval Boven

Railway Tunnel
From the entrance to the ACRA wall parking, take the path down left to the railway tracks. Just before the active railway Tunnel is a drainage gully on the right. The WB wall is a few metres down on the left, facing south. At the other side of the tunnel is The East End, which faces the morning sun.
. ................................ ..............
LOST TRACK 21 ** [6D,A]
From the WB graffiti, climb the left hand line to chains. Apart from the position (boggling) this route is not as good as it looks.
First Ascent: Grant Murray, Ian Manson 1992
 
BOER SKIET DIEF DOOD 17 *** [8D,A]
Clip the first bolt on LOST TRACK, then up the right hand line and back to lower off LOST TRACK'S chains. BOER SKIET DIEF DOOD was a newspaper headline that day!
First Ascent: Ian Manson, Grant Murray 1992
 
Back to Top * Back to Waterval Boven

Back to Top * Back to Home Page



 

ADD TO DEL.ICIO.US   ADD TO DEL.ICIO.US   ADD TO DIGG   ADD TO FURL   ADD TO REDDIT   ADD TO STUMBLEUPON   ADD TO TECHNORATI FAVORITES   ADD TO WINDOWS LIVE   ADD TO YAHOO MYWEB   ADD TO GOOGLE

Copyright 2004 SACIN
Send news, corrections, new routes, adverts etc. to news@saclimb.co.za
Please read our Disclaimer