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Guide for Sport Valley

Climb INDEX * The Pasture * The Coven * The Ivory Towers * The Other Side * Flying is Fun

Sport Valley refers to the shallow kloof to your left as you enter the Resort. Within a radius of about 200m are encompassed about 70 true sport routes, grades 8-27 (currently). In a 400-500m radius from The Other Side, including the Beach and some of the Gaper Faces, are nearly 150 routes. General Access : You can reach The Other Side and the Flying is Fun Crag by going through the fence at the dormitory and walking towards Boven (and The Beach). To reach The Coven, The Pasture or Flying is Fun/Other Side Crags, go down past cairns starting behind the chalets near the trampolines to a fence and cairn at the valley rim. Take care as a few muggings have occured here.
The Pasture
Follow cairns and fence from a break between the small and larger chalets. There will be an old trampoline & putt-putt course on your right when you start on the path. Follow the path into the valley and directly to the crag. Please treat the fence with care. Go around it at the face if possible rather than climbing through it. The little crag is 7-12m high and faces east. It enjoys the morning sun.
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THE CRACK 14 ** [5D,A]
The first route is at the left of the face just south of the fence. Using the bolts on the face to the right, climb the crack and finish left up the pillar to the long chains.
First Ascent: Unknown
 
SMOKING GRASS 17 ** [5D,A]
Climb the face just right of THE CRACK. A short traverse to the right may be needed halfway up the route.
First Ascent: Rupert Leigh 1994 BB: Gunther Migeotte
 
MILKMAN 18 * [5D,A]
Climb the face just left of the arete.
First Ascent: C Kenmuir, G Kenmuir 1994 BB: Gunther Migeotte
 
GAS 18 ** [4D,A]
Stay on the arete through overlap.
First Ascent: C & G Kenmuir 1994 BB: Gunther Migeotte
 
FLUFFY AND MOO COW 17 * [5D,A]
Climb face between arete and tree
First Ascent: J Orton 1994 BB: Gunther Migeotte
 
KHANYISILE 20 ** [5D,A]
Thin balancy moves up the steep wall partway up the gully.
First Ascent: Gustav van Rensberg 1994
 
COWLICK 19 *** [6D,A]
Uses unusual holds up the pockmarked line left of the arete.
First Ascent: Ruth Ferreira 1994 BB: Mike Behr
 
COWABUNGA 22 *** [6D,A]
Line of bolts through roof. Exit up crack.
First Ascent: Glen Harrison, Jacques Holland 1994 BB: Mike Behr
 
COWBOYS 20 ** [6D,A]
Starts left of, and shares 2 bolts on STARGRAZER.
First Ascent: Glen Harrison & Jacques Holland 1994 BB: Mike Behr
 
STARGRAZER 22 *** [6D,A]
Starts in crack with chockstone. Easy climbing to difficult 3rd clip. Pull the bulge - easier if you keep left.
First Ascent: Gustav van Rensburg 1994
 
GYPPO-GUTS 21 *** [6D,A]
Starts at a hollow-topped stone. Follow crack to wide roof crack, using some cunning. Pull up to chains on the right.
First Ascent: Gustav van Rensberg 1994
 
IMODIUM 22 *** [6D,A]
Climb 3 bolts on GYPPO-GUTS; traverse right; pull bulge.
First Ascent: Gustav van Rensburg 1994
 
ABATTOIR 22 *** [5D,A]
Extended boulder problem on the far right of the crag.
First Ascent: Mike Behr 1994
 
Back to Top * Back to Waterval Boven

The Coven
The crag is situated on property belonging to Mr Ken Smith. Like all landowners he has a healthy concern as to how his land is used/abused. Please respect his land. Several approaches to the area from the campsite exist. Probably the quickest is to go down left past the old trampolines towards The Pasture. To access the base, walk down the bottom of the Valley for 150 m to a cairn and turn left upwards towards the obvious descent gully. Follow the base around north. You can also scramble to the rim just past the Pasture and walk along the top. The Coven is also accessible from Flying is Fun with a huge diagonal path starting down about 20m upstream. Other more direct paths become overgrown in summer. Take care as a few muggings have occured here. East facing with morning sun. Height varies from 20-30 m. Some of the best 20/21's at the Restaurant are found here.
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MAMPOER 18 *** [11D,A]
Walk leftwards along base of cliff from PRINCE OF DARKNESS to the end of the crag. Climbs the buttress just before the gully.
First Ascent: Darryl Margetts 1996
 
PRINCE OF DARKNESS 23 *** [9D,A]
On the smooth brown wall at the left of the crag. At Bolt#2 up a seam on the right till this becomes too hard. Back to the middle (bolt#3 hard to clip) then up using the crack on the left. Maybe a bit easier if you're tall.
First Ascent: Clive Curson Apr 1994
 
THE DARK PRINCE 24 *** [9D,A]
Climb as for PRINCE OF DARKNESS, but slightly left between bolts 2 & 3.
First Ascent: Clive Curson
 
QUEEN OF THE NIGHT 24+ *** [9D,A]
The same as PRINCE OF DARNESS, but deviate neither to right nor left.
First Ascent: Alison Cowley 1995
 
LUCIFER GOES TO THE GUNKS 21 **** [12D,A]
10m right of the first four routes. Pull the roof on wild holds!
First Ascent: Clive Curson Apr 1994
 
MERCI MY BROTHER 26 [9D,A]
First Ascent: Gustav van Rensburg 2000
 
666 20 ** [12D,A]
Takes the thin crackline a few meters left of the Coven cave, past some well jammed blocks through the overlap.
First Ascent: Clive Curson May 1994
 
EAT YOUR HEART OUT 25 *** [11D,A]
5 bolts as for 666. Step right and break through the overlap near the right hand end (2-3m left of the BLACK MAGIC seam). Reachy & snatchy.
First Ascent: Clive Curson 1994
 
BLACK MAGIC 21 **** [13D,A]
5 bolts up 666, rail 4-5m right to a beautiful seam through the headwall above the cave. Take 2-3 long draws. It is quite possible to clean the route on a 50m rope. " The best I've done at Boven" - Mike Behr. Do it!
First Ascent: Clive Curson May 1994
 
OPEN PROJECT 29+ [1D,A]
This is a futuristic roof! It may one day start some metres right of where the altar used to be.
First Ascent: Put your name here ?
 
TRIED TO GO TO HEAVEN... 21 **** [16D,A]
A retro-bolted trad adventure. The objective was the headwall groove ... but he went the other way!
1. 17 (6D,A) Climb the jamcrack just right of the cave to a stance.
2. 20 (7D,A) Rail leftwards past the peapod to a stance.
3. 21 (6D,A) Climb the BLACK MAGIC seam to the summit.
Sport Challenge - climb the 1st 2 pitches as one and lower.
Rad Challenge - climb all the pitches as 1 and lower! A 50m rope still puts you back on the ground.
First Ascent: Clive Curson 1994
 
THE PIT 18 *** [6D,A]
The first pitch of TRIED TO GO TO HEAVEN. Climb the crack to lower-offs at a ledge. Don't blow the 3rd clip.
First Ascent: Clive Curson 1994
 
DOM PEDRO 27 [5B,N]
Clip first bolt of THE PIT and move left, blast through the roof to the right of the BLACK MAGIC seam.
Note: No chains on this route.
First Ascent: Jens Richter 2000
 
BABIES' BLOOD GIVES ME GAS 18 **** [14D,A]
Another trad thing - remember when we used to climb corners? Slip on your Stealthy stemming shoes. Classic stuff. Option of 2 lower-offs.
First Ascent: Clive & Barbara Curson May 94
 
SCREAMING DEMONS 24 **** [10D,A]
The blunt arete just right of the BABIES' BLOOD corner.
First Ascent: Glenn Harrison May 1994
 
SHOUT AT THE DEVIL 21 ***** [12D,A]
Great moves on the face 6m right of the BABIES BLOOD GIVES ME GAS corner.
First Ascent: Darryl Margetts April 1994
 
HELTER SKELTER 23 *** [12D,A]
Starts 8m right of the BABIES BLOOF GIVES ME GAS corner. It gets thin.
First Ascent: Darryl Margetts April 1994 BB: Clive Curson
 
HOWLING IN HELL 21 *** [12D,A]
The left-facing corner and roof crack. More trad stuff.
First Ascent: Clive Curson Cathy O'Dowd June 1994
 
HOWLING IN HADES 23 ** [13D,A]
The right hand variation after the roof. Fingery.
First Ascent: Clive Curson June 1994
 
MAD COW 23 ** [9D,A]
Very height dependent, ranging from 21 - 25.
First Ascent: Darryl Margetts 1996
 
DEVIL'S CONCUBINE 16 *** [7D,A]
Starts 5m right of the HOWLING IN HADES corner. Good warm up route.
First Ascent: Darryl Margetts, Andrew Lynch BB: Clive Curson, Daryll Margetts 1994
 
DEVIL'S DISCIPLE 19 ** [9D,A]
Starts just right of DEVIL'S CONCUBINE up a vague corner. Pull the overlap and continue up the slab above to chains.
First Ascent: Darryl Margetts, Greg Devine 1995
 
ROUTE OF ALL EVIL 10 ** [12D,A]
This climbs the root-infested gully 10m to the right of DEVIL'S DISCIPLE. Shares chains with DEVIL'S DISCIPLE.
 
GOD OF SMALL THINGS 33 [B,A]
Just left of DEVIL IN A CAULDRON.
First Ascent: May 2004 Jens Richter
 
DEVIL IN A CAULDRON 27 **** [10D,A]
Takes the right hand edge of this eye-catching face.
First Ascent: Gunther Migeotte May 1994
 
Back to Top * Back to Waterval Boven

The Ivory Towers
About 25m beyond the rightmost side of The Coven (when facing it) there is an easy scramble up. To the right and down from this are 3 Towers, the Southern 2 are joined. Take care as a quite a few muggings have occured here.
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BOLTS FROM HELL 18R ** [10D,A]
About 30m right from the scramble down, about 2m left of the arete on the middle tower. Runout at the crux.
First Ascent: Mike Behr Jun 1994
 
SALEM 19 *** [8D,A]
Starts in the corner right of the arete. After clipping the 2nd bolt, rail left just around the corner. Up to lower-offs.
First Ascent: Mike Behr Jun 1994
 
POSSESSED 19 *** [6D,A]
Starts 2m right of arete/corner. Climb to lower-offs.
First Ascent: Mike Behr Jun 1994
 
BAD OMEN 19 ** [5D,A]
Climbs 1-2m right of the last route to the same lower-offs.
First Ascent: Mike Behr June 1994
 
HOT STUFF 18 *** [9D,A]
Climb the East face of the North Tower. Reachy at 4th bolt.
First Ascent: Ruth Ferreira June 1994 BB: Mike Behr
 
EXORCIST 19 **** [9D,A]
Climbs the fine line on the North face of the North Tower.
First Ascent: Mike Behr June 1994
 
Back to Top * Back to Waterval Boven

The Other Side
Walk along the rim from the fence, (please be careful not to damage the fence) continue for about 250m just past the Flying is Fun crag to a short gully. Walking another 40m along the rim will bring you to shuts at the top of MIXER MINCER SHREDDER LIQUIDIZER. Go down the gully and along right for 40-50m to the base. Alternatively from the Ex-Dormitory (now a concrete slab) head toward the Boven town. After 200m at the 2nd cairn on the main path, go right to a gully roughly in line with the town. The first routes are on the left of this gully. MIXER MINCER SHREDDER LIQUIDIZER is 60m further along the base to the west.
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SPOOKS IN THE CLOSET 20 *** [7D,A]
Goes up the face left of the pillar in the descent gully.
First Ascent: Antoinette Lessing Sep 1994 BB: Charl du Toit
 
URIEL'S MACHINE 13 *** [B,A]
A man-size crack between SPOOKS IN THE CLOSET and TOILET BRUSH. Follows a crack past a large chockstone which is two-thirds up a chimney. Directly beneath the chockstone (on the left-hand wall of the chimney) is a zig-zag crack. Layback up this crack to the chockstone, passing it on the right-hand side. Above the chockstone continue straight up or veer left. Using the crack to chimney is easier and goes at about 11. This route shares anchors with TOILET BRUSH and can be used to abseil in from.
First Ascent: Etienne van der Poel & Hildegard Steinmann Jul 2001 (Opened on trad)
 
TOILET BRUSH 11 ** [B,A]
Two meters to the right of and on the same face of the chimney as URIEL'S MACHINE. Starts directly beneath a small overhang five meters up. Climb the chimney and aim for the clump of grass visible against the skyline directly above. Excellent chimney climbing - could be challenging for tall people. Shares anchors with URIEL'S MACHINE, can be used to abseil in from the top.
Note: A toilet brush was used to clean both URIEL'S MACHINE and TOILET BRUSH and its name is no reflection on how one climbs the route.
First Ascent: Etienne van der Poel & Hildegard Steinmann Jul 2001 (Opened on trad)
 
YUDUVUDU 24 **** [8D,A]
Technical moves up the pillar in the descent gully. A very substantial 24.
First Ascent: Glenn Harrison Sept 94
 
WEIGH-LESS CRACK 12 *** [B,A]
On the northern side of the pinnacle is a large crack a thin person will fit into. Follow this crack to the top. As a variation, the route can be climbed outside the crack.
First Ascent: Etienne van der Poel & Hildegard Steinmann Dec 2001
 
FREQUENT FLYER 18 *** [B,A]
6m right of WEIGH-LESS CRACK is a line going through a bulge in the face. The crux is getting past the bulge.
First Ascent: Etienne van der Poel & Hildegard Steinmann Sep 2002
 
VOYAGER 14 *** [B,A]
3m right of FREQUENT FLYER on the same face.
First Ascent: Etienne van der Poel & Hildegard Steinmann Sep 2002
 
BLOKKIES JOUBERT 17 *** [B,A]
The western side of the pinnacle (facing town) has a series of blocky ledges.
First Ascent: Etienne van der Poel & Hildegard Steinmann Dec 2001
 
TEA FOR TWO 16 *** [B,A]
A face to the right and around the corner from BLOKKIES JOUBERT. The route follows a series of horizontal and vertical cracks.
First Ascent: Etienne van der Poel & Hildegard Steinmann Dec 2001
 
2ND ANNIVERSARY 15 ** [B,A]
2m right of TEA FOR TWO. Starts at and then keeps left of a widening crack.
First Ascent: Etienne van der Poel & Hildegard Steinmann Dec 2001
 
I DRINK THEREFORE I AM 15 ** [8D,A]
Start as for 2ND ANNIVERSARY but climb the streep column to the right, finishing just left of the overhang.
First Ascent: Apr 2004 Stephanie Mallory, Bolted: Stephen Malllory
 
NEARLY HEADLESS NICK 17 *** [10D,A]
Climb the blank face 10m right of 2ND ANNIVERSARY.
First Ascent: Apr 2004 Cara Fleischer, Bolted: Stephen Mallory
 
ANY OTHER F@CKERS 15 **** [N]
Climbs the obvious crack system 5m to the right of NEARLY HEADLESS NICK. Start 5m lower and to the right of NHN. "A good trad line that should remain unbolted" - Stephen
First Ascent: Apr 2004 Stephen Mallory, Dean Gurney, Cara Fleisher, Stephanie Mallory, Richard Mallory
 
CURSE OF THE ARMADILLO 14 ** [N]
About 40m left of the MIXER MINCER SHREDDER LIQUIDIZER wall, and around the corner. Climb the crack up the slab and exit left.
First Ascent: Gary Lotter 1991
 
OF HERBS AND STEWED RABBIT 22 ** [N,2B]
Locate the MIXER MINCER SHREDDER LIQUIDIZER slab (widish crack to the right). This goes up the arete to the left, starting in a large crack left of the arete. It needs a lot of gear, has some hollow rock and is included in this guide mainly because of the name.
First Ascent: Gary Lotter 1991
 
MIXER MINCER SHREDDER LIQUIDIZER 27 *** [8D,A]
The bolt line up a prominent steep slab with yellow lichen to shuts. Take your fingers with the thick skin.
First Ascent: Grant Murray 1992
 
SHORT CUT TO MUSHROOMS 20 ** [N]
Climb the crack right of MIXER MINCER SHREDDER LIQUIDIZER.
First Ascent: Gary Lotter 1991
 
Back to Top * Back to Waterval Boven

Flying is Fun
The most popular beginner crag at The Restaurant. It has many shorter and easier routes and the access is easy. From the campsite walk past the big pool, you will pass a concrete helipad and a fence. Go through the fence and follow this path, it splits later on, don't go right as this goes to the Island. The path leads to the top of the cliff, head right for about 20m and you will get to a scramble taking you to the right-most side of the cliff (when facing it). You can also reach this area via the Pasture, or past the trampolines. The Coven's big brown buttress is directly across the valley, and there are huge blocks in the bush below. The routes are 10-15m long.
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VISIONS OF COSMIC DOOM 9 **** [7D,A]
The arete at the bottom of the access gully. A classic!
First Ascent: Clive Curson 1991
 
TEXAS CHAINSAW MASSACRE 12 *** [8D,A]
Takes in the hand crack 4m right of the VISIONS OF COSMIC DOOM. Uses the lower offs to the left or right.
First Ascent: Clive Curson 1991
 
MRI 11 ** [8D,A]
The wide crack just right of TEXAS CHAINSAW MASSACRE.
First Ascent: Clive Curson 1991
 
FLY FOR LIFE 13 ** [7D,A]
The recess just right. Shares 3 bolts with MRI. Can be awkward going right past the roof without technique. Trend back left to lower-off.
First Ascent: Clive Curson 1991
 
DWARF TOSSING 22 ** [7D,A]
The slab just right of the arete. Head for the arete after the 4th bolt. Going straight up the face is trickier.
First Ascent: Clive Curson 1992
 
RIP 21 **** [8D,A]
The prominent crackline, using the tree or traversing in under the roof to start.
First Ascent: Clive Curson 1991
 
REST IN PEACE DIRECT 23 **** [8D,A]
Direct start is 22/23 - height dependent.
First Ascent: Clive Curson 1993
 
MIDNIGHT MISSION 18 **** [9D,A]
The seam 2m right of RIP, using anything. Climb only the seam for a somewhat more pointed exercise. Great climbing whichever!
First Ascent: Clive Curson 1991
 
FLOATING ON THE STORM 16 ** [9D,A]
Crackline just right of MIDNIGHT MIOSSION. Fine line but there is a great temptation to step right onto THERMAL'S block at the crux. Probably 18 if you're short.
First Ascent: Clive Curson 1992
 
THERMAL 11 *** [9D,A]
The easiest break in this area. Up the corner to a recess, using 5 bolts on FLOATING ON THE STORM. Step back left to FLOATING ON THE STORM lower-offs after surmounting the block.
First Ascent: Clive Curson 1991
 
BLOOD IN THE DUST 13 ** [9D,A]
Starts in the recess just right of THERMAL/FLOATING ON THE STORM. Pull through to a ledge. Continue up the recess and arete above. Go out right to STONE COLD'S finish.
First Ascent: Clive Curson 1991
 
STONE COLD 15 ** [9D,A]
Takes the slanting crack just right of BLOOD IN THE DUST. Continue up the arete and out right to the loweroffs at the high point.
First Ascent: Clive Curson 1991
 
GREATEST DOCTOR IN THE UNIVERSE 21 *** [9D,A]
Start up FROZEN FLESH'S crack. Move up left to climb the face just right of the arete. Finish at the same lower-offs as STONE COLD.
First Ascent: Clive Curson, Barbara Marcus 1992
 
FROZEN FLESH 24 **** [8D,A]
Follows the crackline right of the arete into a shallow corner. Climb the face straight above. May be 23 if you're tall enough 1.85m+).
First Ascent: Clive Curson 1991
 
DOA 19 *** [8D,A]
The fierce-looking handcrack. Harder for midgets (21?).
First Ascent: Clive Curson 1992
 
BLOOD TRANSFUSION 20 *** [9D,A]
Start up DYING TO FLY. Move 2m left at half height to a vague seam. Climb this.
First Ascent: Clive Curson 1992
 
DYING TO FLY 20 *** [8D,A]
The first right leaning crack off the ledge, about 6m right of DOA. A bouldery move to gain the slab.
First Ascent: Clive Curson, Grant Murray 1991
 
THREE BLIND MICE 20 *** [8D,A]
The other right leaning crack - more technical but easier than DYING TO FLY. Step right from the ledge - the first 5m are off-balance. Probably 19 if you work out the moves quickly.
First Ascent: Clive Curson, Grant Murray 1991
 
SEE HOW THEY RUN 21 *** [9D,A]
This is the direct start to THREE BLIND MICE, follow the crack from ground level.
First Ascent: Clive Curson 1992
 
THE CARVING KNIFE 20 *** [9D,A]
From the base of the THREE BLIND MICE crack, move diagonally right on the face to the 3rd bolt. Climb straight up, joining THREE BLIND MICE to the top.
First Ascent: Clive Curson 1995
 
HIGH NOON 21 **** [7D,A]
4m right of the ledge edge. A bit reachy. There is a lot of climbing around the 4th bolt.
First Ascent: Clive Curson 1992
 
BOLTED BONES 17 **** [6D,A]
The beautiful fingercrack 4m left of the corner. Start off a little ledge.
First Ascent: Clive Curson 1991
 
RECOVERY ROOM 14 *** [7D,A]
The jamcrack/layback in the corner. Finishes up the face on the left wall.
First Ascent: Clive Curson 1991
 
BRIDGET GOES TO CASUALTY 15 ** [5D,A]
The short crack 3m right of RECOVERY ROOM'S corner.
First Ascent: Clive Curson 1993
 
FLY BY DAY 13 * [6D,A]
On face holds 1m left of FLY BY NIGHT; uses same recess in the upper reaches, and the same bolts throughout.
First Ascent: Clive Curson 1993
 
FLY BY NIGHT 14 * [6D,A]
Face move at left hand bolt line. Climb recess above.
First Ascent: Clive Curson 1991
 
BRIDGET FLIES AGAIN 13 * [6D,A]
Face move 2m right of FLY BY NIGHT; no brain; avoids the corner. Uses BRIDGET CLIMBS AGAIN'S bolts.
First Ascent: Clive Curson 1993
 
BRIDGET CLIMBS AGAIN 8 * [6D,A]
Using the corner where needed and the same bolts.
First Ascent: Clive Curson 1991
 
BOLDER PROBLEM 22 *** [5D,A]
The steep face on the boulder behind BRIDGET CLIMBS AGAIN. Sandbagged and opened at 18!
First Ascent: Mike Cartwright 1992 BB: Clive Curson
 
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