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Online Guide for Manoutsa

Climb INDEX * Main Crag

Main Crag
The area is clearly divided into several sections. Anyone willing to help us divide the routes into these areas ? The routes are generally listed from left to right but we are aware that many of them are not in a correct order. If you spot errors in the order please pass them on to us so we can correct them.
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WHO DARES WINS 20 (G2/A1) ***
Start approximately 20m right of the prominent white streak which marks the start of MABALENG. The climb generally follows a direct route up superb rock.
1 17 (F3) 20m Start at the base of a left slanting recess which terminates after 8m. Climb the recess and break right at 8 m. Traverse left for 6m, then move up via the crack to a ledge.
2 15 (F2) 12m Climb left to the base of a short crack. Ascend crack and tend right to a small belay stance at the base of a left facing open book.
3 20,A1 (G2/M1) 30m Move awkwardly up to gain the crack. Place gear and aid up the crack, for ±6m till possible to move onto areté on the right. Climb direct for approximately 10m to the base of a small cave on the left. Move up 2m then traverse left and around the corner to a comfortable belay ledge.
4 16 (F2/F3) 25m Ascend on good rock and belay at ± 25m.
5 16 (F2/F3) 25m Continue moving up In a direct line to a large ledge.
6 17 (F3) 35m Climb for approximately 8m then move awkwardly through a series of small rounded bulges to a ledge.
7 17 (F3) 55m Move up on thin but good rock and belay at large ledge. Pitch 7 can be climbed in two pitches if rope is not 60m.
8 10 (E2/E3) 15m Climb till gradient eases and scramble to the top.
NOTES:
1 Protection is adequate.
2 Descend as for MABALENG.
First Ascent: Feb 1997 I Mcmaster, A Erasmus
ON THE EDGE 17 (F3) **
This climb begins 30m to the right of the first picnic site. The start is found at the base of a sloping ramp with a large fig tree about 20m up.
1 12 (E3/F1) 25m Climb an initial easy ramp moving diagonally left to a small ledge about 5m directly below the fig tree. Traverse left into a small corner and climb this until you are at the same level as the fig tree. Climb the short face and then traverse right and take a stance below a small chimney directly above the fig tree.
2 15 (F2) 20m Climb the short chimney between the two large boulders to a ledge. Traverse right to the base of an attractive, steep corner with a tree in it. Climb the corner and exit to the right above.
3 8 (E1) 40m Climb the nondescript rock to the base of the next band of rock where an attractive open book can be seen.
4 17 (F3) 30m Climb the obvious corner to a ledge on the top of a pillar. Move rightwards onto the steep face and climb to the top.
5 13 (F1) 30m Scramble up to the twin recesses. Climb up the right hand recess, through the slight overhang, to the large bushy ledge.
First Ascent: Oct 1988 D Margetts & MJ Seegers
PINK POLLYSHORTS 19 (G1) ***
The route ascends the first (low) buttress on the way to BLACK CORNER from the main road. Move down off the road at the first convenient point downstream from the bridge. Move downstream for about 20m and cross the stream to reach a cleared lane through the bush. Move to the centre of the first buttress and then slightly right to reach the base of the large stepped back slab feature at the right extremity of the buttress. The route ascends the smooth looking groove through the small roof - cairn.
1 19 (G1) 25m Pull up the large detached flake to establish yourself below the roof. Move up through this, awkwardly, to reach the crack above (Tricky climbing). Climb the crack/groove to reach the small ledge at the base of the gearless open book directly above. Climb up and left over the detached block to reach the ledge and tree at the base of the face with Chicken heads.
2 15 (F2) 28m Climb, to the left, up the clean Chicken head face to the small roof. Pull through this and climb up past the large Paperbark tree (on the left) to reach the comfortable ledge on top.
NOTES:
1 Superb, clean route - technically demanding.
2 Protection is adequate.
3 From the top, move rightwards along the ledge system to reach the descent gully.
ALTERNATIVE FOR FIRST PITCH ****
Start approximately 10 metres to the left of the 19G1 first pitch of the above route, below the faint crack system up the slab.
1 15 (F2) 30m Climb the faint crack system up the slab to reach the ledge and tree at the base of the face with Chicken heads.
NOTES:
1 Excellent climbing.
2 Makes an excellent 15 (F2) four star climb when combined with the second pitch of PINK POLLYSHORTS.
3 Alternative opened by TP Willmot, M Conçalves, M Byrd in Oct 1997
First Ascent: Mar 1997 S Broccardo, D Margetts, TP Willmot, L Costa
LUCKY BREAK 19 (G1) ***
This climb ascends the short buttress directly above the parking area with graffiti on the cliffs next to the road. Scramble up the first band of rocks to the right. Start below a obvious open book with an overhang higher.
1 19 (G1) 25m Climb the open book to a ledge. Move left to below the overhang with a crack line up to it. Climb up past the overhang and continue to a good ledge.
2 18 (F3/G1) 25m Move left 1-2m to ascend a crack line to a rail. Rail right and move to below the obvious off width. Ascend this to the top of the crag.
NOTES:
1 Descent: Abseil off a tree, or descend a gully behind the crag.
First Ascent: Dec 1996 D Margetts, G Devine, C Nicole, R Magg, S Norman
PORTAPOTTY 13 (F1)
The route ascends the obvious open book to the left of AN ALIEN PAINTED MY BRAKE DRUMS PINK. The route is capped by a large roof.
1 13 (F1) 28m Climb the open book moving right under the roof to clear. Climb up to a comfortable belay stance:
NOTES:
1 Protection is adequate.
2 From the stop stance move rightwards along the ledge system to reach the descent gully or abseil off the tree just next to the belay ledge.
3 'Kak' route.
First Ascent: Apr 1997 L Costa, TP Willmot
JA OOM 18 (F3) ***
From the left hand side of the upper car park, scramble up about 20m to the point where you can gain access to the start of the vertical rock on the right. The route starts about 10m right of a recess on a pleasant face with a vertical crack running up. A loose looking jug sticks out about 5m up. (It is the left crack of the two cracks about 2/3 metres apart.)
1 18 (F3) 25m Climb the crack past the jug to beneath a bulge. Move slightly right to pass the bulge and continue up the line above for about 15m. until reaching a ledge, above which the angle eases off considerably.
2 13 (F1) 20m Make your way up the easy rock above to an open book. Climb up the open book to the top, or pass it on the left.
First Ascent: Dec 1996 Roland Magg & Stephen Norman
OATSO EASY 17 (F3) *
On the left looking down the road opposite the first parking bay (short steep cliff with graffiti) is a short obvious corner with a crack 1m to the right.
1 17 (F3) 10m Scramble the short ramp up to the base of the corner. Climb the corner and rap off. For further climbing ascend the crack 1m to the right of the corner (21).
First Ascent: Mar 1996 D Margetts & N McQueen
AN ALIEN PAINTED MY BRAKE DRUMS PINK 15 (F2) **
The route ascends the crack line in the recess some 20m left of the line taken by PINK POLLYSHORTS. Move to the back of the gully/recess and start up the crack line on the true right (looking out).
1 15 (F2) 25m Climb the crack line awkwardly and move up under the roof. Pull left to reach the traverse ledge under the laid back face above. Traverse left to each the areté. Climb this to just before the roof above. Place protection to safeguard the very airy traverse. Move left (relatively low) to reach the tree root. Move up this to take a belay hanging from (perched atop) the enormous Paperbark tree.
2 15 (F2) 10m Left of the tree is a very impending crack. Move left of this to reach the chicken head face. Pull up this to reach the sharp nose at the top of the impending crack and pull up to enter the groove above. Climb the groove to reach the party ledge above. Take a belay.
NOTES:
1 Good protection.
2 A worthwhile mid range route.
3 An airy traverse at the end of pitch 1. Watch the protection.
4 From the top stance move rightwards along the ledge system to reach the descent gully.
First Ascent: Mar 1997 TP Willmot, S Broccardo, D Margetts, L Costa
CRACK.EXE 23,A1 (H1,M1) ****
From the base of DOUBLE GREEN traverse across the base of the gully. Continue along the base of the crag to where an obvious open book starts.
1 16 (F1/F3) 15m Climb the open book/crack to a good ledge where the off width starts.
2 23 (H1) 15m Climb the off width to a good stance on the left.
3 17 (F3) 20m Climb the face above to a crack. Climb the crack. Continue up to a good ledge.
4 21 (G2/G3) 20m Move right into a corner. Climb up the recess to a traverse line. Traverse right with difficulty at first. Continue right past the first recess to stance at the second recess with the wide crack above.
5 21,A1 (G2/G3,M1) 30m Climb easily up to the base of the crack (aid up the crack - large Camelots). Traverse right for 5m, climb up to a good stance.
6 12 (E3/F1) 10m Climb easily up to large ledge.
NOTES:
1 A good selection of large Camelots (3 of size 4 and 1 of size 5) as well as large friends (size 4) is essential.
2 A sustained exposed route which is waiting to be free.
3 Descent: Traverse left across a recess and up a crack to the top of the crag. You are now at the top of the last pitch of WAITING FOR THE BUS (Traverse right and up to descend the obvious gully).
First Ascent: Jul 1997 C Nicole, D Margetts
ASHEN LIZARD 22 (G3/H1) ***
This climb ascends the middle of the SW Manoutsa wall directly opposite the parking lot at the tunnel entrance. Start ±50m to the right of the white streak on the face. About 10m to the right of an obvious corner with a tree at the top scramble up a short slope to the base of an obvious crack with an off width crack above.
1 21 (G2/G3) 40m Climb the crack to a small ledge. Move slightly left then ascend to a small ledge below the off width. Move to the right areté and continue up the face until one can step left across to the nose. Pull onto the nose and continue up easy face to ledge.
2 13 (F1) 40m Climb past the tree on the left face and continue up and traverse left then ascend to gully. Climb up the crack system on the left of the gully. Continue up the areté to the ledge on the left.
3 22 (G3/H1) 25m Climb the crack on the left of the ledge. Continue up to the open book on the right. Traverse left along the rail. Break through the overhang to a small ledge and move up and place protection under the roof on the left. Traverse left then climb up 1m to a small ledge. Climb directly up in a small recess (crux) to take a cramped stance.
4 20 (G2) 25m Traverse left and down from the ledge. Climb up the corner moving right at the top then move left to break through the overhang. Continue up recess with difficulty to the ledge on the left.
5 16 (F2/F3) 25m Climb up to the right hand edge of the green face. Move right into the small gully, continue up the face on the right to a large ledge.
6 17 (F3) 25m Climb up the face to a small roof. Pull through the roof to a small crack. Continue up to a large ledge. Scramble up rightwards to the face on the right of the large recess.
7 18 (F3/G1) 30m Climb up the face move slightly rightwards to a small crack. Continue up to a roof which is passed on the right.
NOTES:
1 On the 1st pitch the leader climbed the short slab after the initial crack without moving left.
2 Sustained and committing climb.
3 Move left along the top of the crag for ± 150m until crag dips. Go down obvious gully down climbing on left (facing outwards) then move right (facing outward). Continue down to the base of the crag.
First Ascent: Feb 1997 D Margetts, C Nicole
WAKE-UP CALL 11 (E3) ****
The route takes the areté at the extreme left of the main wall just before the huge gully visible from the campsite and about 30 meters left of RASTUS. The climb ascends a crack system near the left hand edge of the huge easy angled slab extending right to the top of the crag.
1 8 (E1) 49m From the large boulder at the foot of the slab traverse out left for about 15m to a large crack system near the edge of the slab. Climb the easy angled slab to one of several possible stances.
2 10 (E2/E3) 48m Continue up the slab keeping to within a couple of metres of the edge of the areté.
3 11 (E3) 45m Climb up bearing slightly right to a short vertical section. (This was climbed by the leader at 15F2.) Traverse right to bypass this and then back left.
4 10 (E2/E3) 45m Take the easiest line to the top of the crag.
NOTES:
1 A superb easy route on excellent quality clean rock.
2 Stances are large enough for big parties.
3 Quite an airy route with great views over the bushveld.
First Ascent: Sep 1997 G Devine, N Griffin
LIES AND RECONCILIATION 13 (F1) ****
The route ascends an arbitrary line up the huge slab which has at its left extremity the route WAKE UP CALL. Start at the same point as WAKE UP CALL just under the chock boulder next to the huge boulder just right of the intersection of the scree slope and the left most gully of the cliff.
1 8 (E1) 25m Move up diagonally leftwards making for the cubby-hole stance shared with WAKE UP CALL.
2 10 (E2/E3) 45m Climb diagonally rightwards making for the line left of the big roofs above. Stop when you get to a narrow ledge with a chossy groove at its right extremity (Bollie ledge).
3 13 (F1) 45m Take off from the middle of the ledge and climb straight up the now vertical wall to reach a small ledge with a bit of a roof above it.
4 10 (E2/E3) 15m Climb straight up from the ledge via the good crack system to reach the comfortable belay ledge on top.
NOTES:
1 An excellent easy grade route with palpable exposure and a stupendous view across the Lowveld.
2. To descend move up to the summit ridge and turn right moving down the mountain to reach the top of the normal descent gully "A".
First Ascent: Dec 1997 G Devine, D Margetts; TP Willmot, AJ Laas, A Lombard
RASTUS 19 (G1) ***
This route takes the break on the far left hand side of the crag (looking up from the road). It takes a right slanting break with a large corner to the right.
1 15 (F2) 30m Climb the crack to a small ledge. Continue up a corner past a bulge to a comfortable stance with a tree.
2 19 (G1) 30m Climb the break above the tree. Crux after about 5 m. Continue up t a small stance behind a tree. Continue up leftwards to a comfortable sloping stance.
3 15 (F2) 40m Traverse left and down from the stance to ascend easy rock up an areté. Move diagonally rightwards but keeping the vegetated break to the right. Continue up the crack line to exit right below a series of overlaps to a comfortable stance on the right.
4 17 (F3) 45m On the right of the stance, climb up a ramp to a small overhang. Pull through this onto a thin face. Climb the crack line moving diagonally right into a large break. Climb this break to a large ledge. Climb up the face on the left of the ledge to the top of the crag.
NOTES:
1 To descend, scramble across the top to the right and move down to the beginning of the Descent Gully. Move right at the base of the gully to avoid the rock band.
First Ascent: Nov 1995 D Margetts, G Devine, N McQueen
BLOOD AND GUTS 20 (G2) ****
The route commences approximately 125 meters to the left of the regular descent gully-"A" / tea spot. Look for the immaculate handcrack that splits a 20 meter high right facing dihedral.
1 20 (G2) 35m Climb easily to the platform below the crack. Gain the crack with difficulty and cruise to a ledge.
2 15 (F2) 15m Climb up to the tree on the face. Traverse left above tree and round the corner to a ledge / platform.
3 15 (F2) 35m Follow the obvious left slanting break around the corner. Climb up and left past tree and aloe to cubby-hole stance.
4 18 (F3/G1) 40m Climb up and left. Head towards obvious gully / chimney on the skyline.
5 15 (F2) 30m Slash and Burn you're way to the base of the chimney.
6 15 (F2) 20m Climb the chimney exiting on the right.
NOTES:
1 Protection is adequate.
2 Descend via the "A" gully.
First Ascent: Dec 1997 I Mcmaster, C Loubser
GREEN NUMBER 16 (F2/F3) **
This climb starts about 50m from the base of Gully A on the left looking up. Scramble up the short gully . The climb starts on the left hand side of the gully with large flake in it.
1 13 (F1) 25m Climb up the face moving left then up to a good ledge. Climb up a wide crack to belay on a ledge to the left.
2 13 (F1) 30m Move above the ledge traverse first left then up and traverse right and up to belay at a tree.
3 13 (F1) 50m Traverse left around a buttress then continue up to a large bushy ledge.
4 16 (F2/F3) 50m Move left along the ledge until a obvious break through an overhang is reached. Climb up past the overhang. Traverse right and steeply up to twin cracks. Climb right hand crack then move left and continue up to top of crag.
NOTES:
1 Descend Gully A.
First Ascent: Aug 1996 U Kiefer, D Margetts, G Devine, TP Willmot, P McCann
EASY DAY FOR A CHANGE 10 (E2/E3)
This climb starts at the base of descent gully A on the left hand side looking up.
1 10 (E2/E3) 30m Climb the easy ramp which steepens slightly before the belay ledge.
2 10 (E2/E3) 30m Traverse right onto the buttress climb. Climb this buttress to a ledge.
3 10 (E2/E3) 30m Traverse left then climb up to a large ledge. Cross this and continue up a ramp to a large grassy ledge.
4 10 (E2/E3) 30m Move right along the grassy ledge. Climb up to a large block. Move between the block and crag traversing right to a ledge. The opening party also did another finish up leftwards 16 (F3) but this was not in keeping with the nature of the climb.
NOTES:
1 Descent: Gully A (One can traverse right into the gully from the top of the route).
First Ascent: Oct 1996 D Margetts, G Devine, TP Willmot
TWO BY FOUR 17 (F3) ****
This climb ascends the right hand edge of the left hand descent gully (Gully A) when looking up. Scramble up on top of a large boulder at the base of the crag (Tea Spot). Then scramble up a short gully and move left to a ledge below a short smooth face with a small tree growing out of it.
1 16 (F2/F3) 45m Climb up the smooth face for 3m then step left 2m into a crack system. Follow the crack system up an easy angled slab to a ledge at 45m.
2 16 (F2/F3) 45m Climb the crack systems making for the chimney above. Climb the chimney to belay on the buttress.
3 17 (F3) 45m Climb the crack above the ledge. After 8m traverse right and continue up to another traverse at about 20 m. Traverse right 4-5m then continue up making for the ledge with a tree.
4 13 (F1) 20m Climb the buttress above to the top of the crag (this could be avoided on the right).
NOTES:
1 Descent: Gully to left (looking up).
First Ascent: May 1996 D Margetts, N McQueen, G Devine, E Istead
TRIPLE BYPASS 18 (F3/G1) ***
Starts about 15m right of the route TWO BY FOUR, about 2m left of a staunch, white tree growing against the face. (This is the site of the so-called tea spot, just above the boulder scramble and cave).
1 15 (F2) 35m Climb straight up and then diagonally right to enter a chossy corner. Climb the corner for 20 meters to a stance on a ledge/block on the left.
2 16 (F2/F3) 30m From the ledge climb diagonally up and right over a bulge. Enter a clean corner at this point. Climb the corner, bypassing the first small roof on the right. Traverse right under the second roof to a narrow ledge under huge roof. Make a stance.
3 18 (F3/G1) 40m Traverse along the ledge for about 8 meters. Climb up and right. Bypass the huge roof at its rightmost extremity to enter a narrow, bushy corner. Follow the corner and it's continuation recess to a ledge with a tree up and left of the overhanging rock.
4 11 (E2) Scramble out!
NOTES:
1 Protection is adequate.
2 Descend via the "A" Gully.
First Ascent: May 1997 I Mcmaster & C Loubser
FOUR BY FOUR 19 (G1) ***
Ascends the fine crack line some 20 meters to the right of the route TWO BY FOUR.
Start at the bottom of the slab immediately above the Tea Spot on top of the cluster of boulders to the right of the pillar which marks the start of the route TWO BY FOUR.
1 19 (G1) 48m Ascend the slab for approximately 8m to where it is possible to traverse right to clear the chossy groove. Move delicately right to reach the clean vertical crack line. Move up the crack line (excellent climbing) until forced rightwards by the roof. Gain the base of the hidden open book (facing Ohrigstad) (crux) and then move delicately upwards to clear. Move up the broken wall directly above to reach the suspect flake. Pull up leftwards of this. Tip toe back right and move up the fault line to reach the stance comprising two separate little 2 man stances (one above the other).
2 18 (F3/G1) 30m Move up the vertical wall behind the stances (There are no overriding features) to reach the long narrow ledge below the huge roof. This route joins the route TRIPLE BYPASS at this point.
3 18 (F3/G1) 40m From the right extremity of the long ledge move up the thin vertical wall behind. Move up diagonally rightwards to clear the rooflet above (on the right). Move immediately back leftwards to reach the base of the clean crisp open book above. Move up this open book and clear at the top to a large belay ledge on the left.
4 13 (F1) 45m From the stance follow the obvious line up the gully. Clear a short bulge just above the stance and move up the choss to reach a large ledge. Walk across the ledge and climb any good looking line to the top.
NOTES:
1 The first and third pitches have some really superlative climbing though at times the run outs can be fierce and some of the rock is suspect (Top of first pitch).
2 Descend via the A gully (on left looking up).
First Ascent: Aug 1997 C Nicole, G Devine, D Margetts, TP Willmot
LITTLE RED DEVIL 16 (F2/F3) **
The climb ascends an obvious slab of rock with a large crack up the middle, as seen on the right hand side of road when looking back from the car park before passing through the Strijdom Tunnel.
Take the path directly down to the river as described in DOUBLE GREEN. Continue past DOUBLE GREEN at a fairly low level until one can see the slab with the crack line up the middle above. Scramble up to the base of the main buttress.
1 16 (F2/F3) 45m Follow the crack line (wide) to the top of the buttress.
2 13 (F1) 25m At the back of the ledge climb a short corner, then traverse left and ascend a break to below the final buttress.
3 15 (F2) 25m Climb the obvious crack line up to an overhang. Move through the overhang and continue to the top of the crag.
NOTES:
1 Descend on the right hand side (looking up).
First Ascent: Dec 1996 D Margetts, G Devine, I McMaster & I Hunter
COMFORTABLY NUMB 20 (G2) ***
The route starts at the obvious crack line, approximately 50m, to the right of the left hand descent gully, before moving right onto the face at the end of pitch 2 and finally traversing between the two overhangs above the large fig tree on pitch 4.
1 20 (G2) 35m Climb between the two trees on the left crack. Climb the crack with increasing difficulty until forced onto the left wall. Make thin moves to a rail below the overhang (crux)), move right to reach the right hand crack, which now opens into a narrow groove. Enter groove, move left and climb to a tree. Belay here or on the right.
2 17 (F3) 15m Climb the groove above the tree (10 m) to a foot and hand rail on the right. Traverse right, Mantle shelf on to a large ledge below a tree.
3 19 (G1) 25m Climb up to and follow the crack through the tree to easier ground. Climb the right hand crack to a small ledge. Move left and ascend the face to ledges above.
4 14 (F1/F2) 25m Climb the crack above to a corner. Climb the corner to a large fig tree. Continue up the ramp on the right to a large ledge below overhangs.
5 14 (F1/F2) 50m Move up and left on to a ramp, 3m below the overhangs, which is followed to the areté/skyline (large thread/flake runner). Climb straight up to left of overhang and pull onto face above. Move right and climb face to a large ledge (possible belay). Climb the easy rightward rising diagonal off width crack and continue up easy ground to top.
NOTES:
1 The descent is the large gully to the left of the route as you face the crag. Continue ascending leftwards scrambling over several rock steps towards the gully. Go over the top of the crag and descend to the top of the gully. Descend the gully to base of crag. Traverse left (facing road) to avoid the rock band below the main crag.
First Ascent: Oct 1995 DTJ Mortimer, D Margetts
C'EST LA VIE 20 (G2) ***
This shares the same first pitch as HARD ROCK CAFE.
1 17 (F3) 35m Climb up to the base of the open book. Climb this and traverse right to ascend the slab to the right. Climb to a long ledge.
2 15 (F2) 40m Climb the bushy corner above the left hand end of the ledge. Traverse left across the face to the left of the overhang. Ascend the face to a ledge (large).
3 18 (F3/G1) 30m From the top of pitch 2 move left along the ledge to start the next pitch at a tree on the left hand extremity. Traverse left around the buttress then climb up to a tree. From the tree continue traversing left, after 5m move up past a small tree to another traverse line. Traverse left to below an obvious crack line, climb this to belay on a ledge to the left.
4 12 (E3/F1) 20m Climb nondescript rock and bush to ledge below steep recess.
5 20 (G2) 40m Climb the left hand recess up to an off width crack. Climb to the top of the off width. At this point traverse left across a slab. Continue left to a recess which is ascended to a ledge.
6 13 (F1) 25m Move left along the ledge around a buttress. Ascend a crack system on the left of the buttress and continue up to the top of the crag.
NOTES:
1 Use the A descent gully.
First Ascent: Nov 1996 C Nicole, D Margetts, U Kiefer, G Devine, TP Willmot
WISH YOU WERE HERE 20 (G2) ****
This climb starts in the same place as HARD ROCK CAFÉ.
1 17 (F3) 35m Climb the first pitch of HARD ROCK CAFÉ. Take a stance in the corner on the left.
2 18 (F3/G1) 40m Climb the slab above directly, moving up to a small ledge with a tree, make a tricky move leftward then continue up moving slightly leftwards to a tree and stance.
3 20 (G2) 30m Move leftwards and up onto the lichen covered face. Climb directly up moving slightly left when it gets tricky. Continue up to a long narrow blocky ledge.
4 18 (F3/G1) 40m Move rightwards and up from the stance to a recess. Climb up the recess to a wide crack with a steep face on the left. Climb up the crack until able to climb the face on the left. Climb the face to a rail, move left then up to the top of the crag.
NOTES:
1 Use descent gully A as in HARD ROCK CAFÉ.
First Ascent: Apr 1997 C Nicole, D Margetts, G Devine, A McCann
HARD ROCK CAFE 19 (G1) *****
The route takes the groove system which culminates in the very obvious diagonally left leaning woody gully in the upper wall (between the routes COMFORTABLY NUMB and YEBO GOGO).
The route is immediately above the right extremity of the lower rock band - cairn.
1 17 (F3) 35m Scramble up behind the tree to reach the base of the intimidating looking left leaning open book above.. Stem up this and clear to the right at the natural traverse line just prior to the top of the book. Climb up to reach the ledge at the tree above. At this point traverse right across the width of the gully to reach the big ledge at the base of the two crack lines above (one short and a larger one that moves up to the tree).
2 17 (F3) 40m Climb the crack until forced out right at the tree. Ascend the face and then rejoin the line above the tree. Move up the very steep face above with the two faint crack lines to reach the large comfortable belay ledge. Exit onto the ledge via the left edge.
3 17 (F3) 30m Step down off the right hand edge of the ledge and fall across to the main wall. Pull up steeply via a long reach and move up diagonally rightwards around the areté to reach the short open book around the corner. Climb the open book and move up diagonally rightwards to reach the large very sloping ledge above.
4 19 (G1) 35m Move off the ledge at its left extremity and gain the broken crack above with difficulty. Climb this to the roof above with the fist width crack through it. Move through the roof by means of jamming and laybacking and climb the wall above via the fine chicken heads to reach the tree above with the large ledge system a small distance above.
5 12 (E3/F1) 40m Climb the buttress above to the left of the vegetated gully and take a comfortable stance at a ledge with tree.
NOTES:
1 All belay ledges are large and clean.
2 The grading for pitches 1 and 3 favours average sized climbers. Longer persons may find the grade easing, a tad, in terms of reach.
3 An excellent sustained climb - technically pleasing.
4 Protection is adequate.
5 From the top of the fifth pitch move up the left leaning woody gully in the upper wall which exits naturally into the left most descent gully off the cliff.
First Ascent: Jun 1996 D Margetts, G Devine, TP Willmot,m Phillips
HOME ALONE 21 (G2/G3) *****
This climb starts about 30m right of the start for HARD ROCK CAFÉ. Walk along the base of the crag from the start of HARD ROCK CAFÉ to the right past a recess to a steep face with an overhang above and crack recess up to the left and a tree above this.
1 18 (F3/G1) 30m Climb up the face to below the overhang. Move leftwards and up to a wide crack. Make a difficult move up and rightwards to a tree. Climb up past the tree then climb up leftwards to a cubby-hole and stance.
2 18 (F3/G1) 40m Traverse right then up to a shallow open book. Continue up to the slab above. Climb up the slab above to a large ledge.
3 16 (F2/F3) 30m Climb up a recess on the left of the ledge, continue up to a short crack. Climb this then move slightly right then left again to exit up the final steep face to the ledge.
4 21 (G2/G3) 30m Start as for HARD ROCK CAFÉ but instead of going leftwards to the overhang with a crack through it go rightwards to the steep open book. Climb this and traverse leftwards at the top of the open book. Continue up to good ledge.
5 13 (F1) 30m Climb the recess crack above the stance to the top of the crag.
NOTES:
1 Descend as for HARD ROCK CAFÉ.
First Ascent: Aug 1997 C Nicole, D Margetts
RIDERS ON THE STORM 20 (G2) ***
The route takes the cliff high left leaning break which starts some 30m right of HARD ROCK CAFÉ. Start at the foot of a rising ramp to the right behind a huge boulder detached from the face - cairn.
1 17 (F3) 25m Move up the short ramp to the right to reach the vertical well defined crack behind. Climb this to reach the base of the crack out of which is growing a large paperbark tree. Climb up to the left of the tree and move up slightly right to reach the base of the off width crack above. Gain this with some difficulty. There is a loose horizontal blocklet upon which it is possible to stand. On the under right hand side of the jammed chockstone above is a lay away hold which it is possible to employ to lean out and friction up to reach the ledge above through the woody choss.
2 15 (F2) 25m Climb the deep open book above the stance and move up over some blocks to reach a groove which is bound on the left by some thorny choss. Move up into the thorns to reach some thin holds and then power up rightwards via some huge jugs to reach the large ledge above below the striking open book
3 15 (F2) 27m Climb the open book to reach the rising ledge to the right. Move up this and climb up to reach the large tree above. Traverse delicately left to reach the root of the open book in a deep cubby-hole at the right extremity of the HARD ROCK CAFÉ dinner plate ledge. Take a belay.
4 20 (G2) 40m Of the two cracks above the stance, climb the right hand one. Take off from the cubby-hole delicately and move up to the first roof above. Pass this on the right and climb to the second roof just above. Move past this extremely delicately and climb up to the deep tree choked ledge above,. Climb up the open book at the back of the ledge making thankful use of the chockstone half way up. Climb up to the ledge above. From the ledge climb the steep open book above moving left at the top to break through the notch by using the ramp on the left. Climb the slab on the left to reach the spacious belay ledge.
5 12E3/F1 25m Climb to the left above the stance to reach the off width crack above. Climb this and pull up the areté on the left to reach the comfortable belay stance on top.
NOTES:
1 Superb climbing.
2 Protection is adequate.
3 From the top of the 5th pitch move up the left leaning scree/boulder filled gully in the upper wall which exits naturally into the top of the descent gully "A".
First Ascent: Jan 1998 K Thrash, TP Willmot, G Devine, A Lombard, D Margetts
YEBO-GOGO 14 (F1/F2) **
The route starts about 3/4 of the way along the main crag in the vicinity of three large boulders which are situated in a clump. The route begins about 30m left of the start of FOUR MUSKETEERS.
1 13 (F1) 50m Scramble up a short distance to the base of a groove with a tree in it. Scramble up the ramp to the base of 2 cracks. Climb the right hand crack past a bush at the top. Continue up easy ground to a big stance below an overhanging corner.
2 14 (F1/F2) 15m Climb the face on the left of the corner, first leftwards then straight up to a cubby hole below another corner.
3 14 (F1/F2) 40m Climb the corner moving rightwards to a ledge. Move right onto the face and climb up the face to a comfortable stance.
4 13 (F1) 40m Step off the ledge on the left and climb non descript rock to a large bushy ledge. (This pitch is shared with FOUR MUSKETEERS.)
5 13 (F1) 25m Move up and traverse leftwards to an areté. Climb the areté to an overhang, moving past the overhang on the left and up to a large ledge.
NOTES:
1 Descend the gully to the left of the climb.
First Ascent: Sep 1995 D Margetts, G Devine, A Lynch
THE FOUR MUSKETEERS 18 (F3/G1) ***
The route starts just left of the large corner running above three large boulders about 3/4 of the way along the crag base from the right. The route starts by stepping off the top of the highest boulder.
1 18 (F3/G1) 45m Climb up the face to the right of a shallow finger crack with roots in it to a tree. Pass the tree on the right and continue up the crack past a bush (crux) to reach the ledge. Avoid moving left but move up a right hand crack system to a large ledge.
2 12 (E3/F1) 25m Climb broken rock tending right around corner into a recess. Climb the recess past bush until ledge beneath obvious overhanging break.
3 17 (F3) 35m Climb break through overhang. Follow crack system up to where the crack fades, step right and climb face to a ledge on left.
4 13 (F1) 40m Step off the ledge on the left and follow non-descript rock to a large bushy ledge.
5 14 (F1/F2) 20m Climb short face to overhang. Break through overhang at tree and continue to a large ledge. Scramble to the top of the crag.
NOTES:
1 Descend as described in the 1988 MCSA Journal or down the gully to the left.
2 5 hours for first ascent.
First Ascent: Nov 1993 N Margetts, D Margetts, H Spencer-Wilson, B Schumacher
KING P 19 (G1) **
The route takes a line up the centre of the wall between ANJIN SAN and THE FOUR MUSKETEERS. The objective is the smooth looking red head wall to the right of and below a huge outjutting phallic symbol.
Start behind the immense detached block at the foot of a vegetated groove with a big gendarme to the right.
1 12 (E3/F1) 25m Climb the chossy groove to the top of the gendarme. Take a stance at the large Paperbark tree on top of the gendarme.
2 17 (F3) 45m From the top of the gendarme climb the vegetated looking crack up the main wall to reach the large ledge above. From the right extremity of the ledge clear the roof above on the right up the thin head wall to reach the large horizontal Paperbark tree. Take a belay.
3 15 (F2) 25m Climb the clean crack system immediately above the Paberbark tree. Thrutch (if you are wearing a pack) through the wormhole/chimney above and move on up to the sloping ledge on the left with the final open book up and on the right. Take a stance.
4 15 (F2) 10m Move left from the stance around the corner and take off from the hidden foothold at about knee height. Climb up diagonally leftwards to reach the large ledge above.
5 19 (G1) 20m Climb up the faint crack system sticking to the right. Move up to the roof, traverse to the left and exit via the notch to reach the comfortable belay ledge on the left. The opening leader traversed at a lower level across the wall at which point the grade is 19 (G1). If one moves higher and traverses under the roof as one of the seconds did, the grade drops to 16 (F2/F3). (Make sure that you have a Camelot 5 for protection)
6 17 (F3) 40m Take off from the stance and climb up the open book under the huge roof above. There are three traverse lines across the right hand wall. Move up to the top one under the roof and move right. In the middle of the traverse is a long step to the right (crux) to clear the roof. Watch out for the loose shit along the rail. At the end of the traverse reach up and pull through into the bushy groove. Ascend this to the comfortable ledge on the left.
7 16 (F2/F3) 25m Step to the right and pull up the steep knife blades above to reach the tree choked ledge in the little amphitheatre at the top of a woody gully. These knife blades pass the huge phallic symbol on the right.
8 15 (F2) 20m Move to the back of the amphitheatre and take the clean narrow crack line on the right. Climb the crack to exit to the comfortable belay block on top.
NOTES:
1. Descend by moving up the ridge of the mountain to the descent gully A.
2. Protection is adequate throughout.
3. Loose and dangerous in parts.
First Ascent: Feb 1998 K Thrash, G Devine, D Margetts; TP Willmot, N Samuels (first 4 pitches)
RELAX MCSAK 19 (G1) ***
This climb starts about 200m to the left of the first picnic site. Walk along the road past a very prominent buttress. Pass the steep recess (KANOUTSA), up a short talus slope to a break with a blank section to the left. The start of the climb is an off-width crack, about 8m high, with another recess about 1m to the right.
1 17 (F3) 35m Climb the off-width crack using a layback. Move right into another recess and continue up for a few metres. Move left and continue to a tree. Climb up to and through an overhang to a good, large, flat ledge below a large fig tree.
2 19 (G1) 35m Climb past the fig tree and then move diagonally right to the base of an open book. Climb this to a ledge with a small tree. The crux is a third of the way up the open book.
3 10 (E2/E3) 10m Traverse left from the stance to a cubby-hole and small tree.
4 17 (F3) 45m Climb the recess above to a steep crack. Climb halfway up the crack and step left into a recess. Climb the recess to the base of a short chimney. Climb the chimney up to a narrow belay ledge with a tree on the right.
5 16 (F2/F3) 40m Climb the recess above for 5m. Traverse left onto the areté and climb up the face on the left for 3m, in order to avoid the overhang. Step right, into the recess, and continue up to the final overhang. Climb up the right-hand face of the recess on large jugs to the large bushy ledge.
First Ascent: Dec 1988 MJ Seegers, D Margetts
ANJIN SAN 19 (G1) ***
The route starts on the bottom right hand side of the wall left of the major buttress containing the climb TENDEKA and has, as objective, the exit crack/open book high up on the left extremity of the wall. Start at the second small pinnacle out from the route TENDEKA (on the tunnel side). There is a cairn at head height on a small ledge.
1 18 (F3/G1) 40m Climb a small corner in the pinnacle until forced out left to the areté. Climb this to the tree belay on a ledge on the left. Pro here and there.
2 15 (F2) 25m Start in crack 2m left of tree. Move up and diagonally leftwards over a couple of shallow aretés until a hanging belay can be taken in an incipient corner below the steep wall above. A horizontal break/rail disappears leftwards into the haze at about the level of the hanging belay.
3 18 (F3/G1) 48m Move left from the hanging belay (about 2 m) until a vertical line can be seen. Ascend this moving to the right of a small roof in the process. (Just below the roof a 150 mm wide ledge disappears leftwards). Continue up the steep break until a substantial ledge (about 300 mm wide) is reached. Mantle shelf onto the ledge and move left until the next vertical break is reached. Follow this steep mother tending slightly leftwards until a comfortable belay ledge with tree can be reached. Rope at full stretch.
4 18 (F3/G1) 30m This is choss deluxe. Move up and left from belay stance to reach ledge choked with thorny bushes. Fight through this lot to a narrow finger crack open book at end of ledge. Ascend this (crux) to pile of blocks at top and take a belay.
5 18 (F3/G1) 48m From the pile of blocks move slightly left until a vertical break is reached (steep). Ascend this until it is possible to move up diagonally leftwards. At the next good rail traverse left for ± 10m making for the base of the open book above. Move up this for about 5m until a small ledge is reached on the right. Take a belay.
6 19 (G1) 40m Ascend the open book using all available protuberances . Stem, layback and thrutch your way up until the grade eases just below a tree belay on the long ledge.
7 11 (E3) 35m Take whatever easy line is available to top out.
NOTES:
1 Use 50m ropes otherwise you will not make some of the belay stances.
2 If you are carrying a small day pack it would be better to haul it up pitch 6.
3 All in all an excellent route on some very steep thin rock. Pitches 1, 3, 5 and 6 were superb.
4 We descended via the gully at the back of the mountain - One abseil.
First Ascent: Apr 1993 U Kiefer, TP Willmot
CRY FREEDOM 20/A1 (G2/M1) *****
The route moves up the centre of a cone shaped buttress which is left of the TENDEKA recess and right of the large blank face. It takes the main break up the middle of the buttress to a bush and continues up the open book capped by roofs toward the areté on the left. This is followed by a couple of pitches on yellow rock and finally up a short steep red face.
1 17 (F3) 40m Climb the break to a small stance with a bush.
2 20/A1 (G2/M1) 50m Moving left, climb a short face above the stance and then traverse left to a crack line. Ascend the crack using 1 point of aid. Continue up open book capped by large roofs. Traverse 3m left about 4m below the roof to ascend a crack on the left. At the overhang move left to the skyline. Belay here or make one move right and up for 3m to a larger ledge above the roof.
3 16 (F2/F3) 40m Climb above the stance for a few meters and then traverse right over the roof of pitch 2 (much like JACOB's LADDER). At the edge move around and up the easy face above. Climb the face and up to a large ledge below red face.
4 14 (F1/F2) 40m Climb diagonally right up a ramp. Climb the face and up to a large ledge below red face.
5 20 (G2) 20m Climb the finger crack in the middle of the face, breaking right at the top and up to the top of the crag.
NOTES:
1 Descend as described in the 1988 MCSA journal.
First Ascent: Jun 1995 D Margetts, G Devine, N McQueen,m Phillips
TENDEKA 17 (F3)
About halfway between the little bridge and the 62km stone there is an impressive recess with a crack that leans over to the left. Near the bottom two roots can be seen growing into the crack. The climb starts at a tree on the face, just to the left of the lower root.
1 17 (F3) 30m From the tree, climb up to the right into the crack, make a strenuous pull-up (F3) and continue up to an overhang. Handswing/straddle over to the left onto a ridge. Climb the ridge, then climb past a large chockstone to reach a cave.
2 10 (E2/E3) 30m From the right-hand side of the cave, climb through a hole under a flake. Continue up a crack to reach a smooth 'open-book' chimney.
3 10 (E2/E3) 30m Climb the 'open-book' chimney, then up to an overhang. Traverse to the left, over a thick white tree that grows immediately under the overhang, to a bushy stance.
4 14 (F1/F2) 45m Climb up diagonally to the left to the ridge of the buttress. Above, a little overhang made by a block can be seen. Pull up to the left of the block and continue to the top.
NOTES:
1 Descend as for KANOUTSA.
First Ascent: Feb 1975 P Bridgman, J Zietsman & E Haber
SULTANS OF SWING 22 (G3/H1) ****
The route takes the obvious open book up the right side of the major buttress (at the left extremity of this buttress is the route TENDEKA).
1 16 (F2/F3) 25m Climb smooth grey rock and make for the large ledge below the obvious left leaning open book above.
2 19 (G1) 25m Gain the base of the left leaning open book and move up with difficulty to reach the large blocks below the final crack under the roof. There is a fair amount of old "ab cord" at this point.
3 22 (G3/H1) 25m Step right off a small rock projection. Traverse right with difficulty at first then move up a faint crack to place protection high. Descend then to the same level as the ledge. Continue traversing with difficulty to the areté. Climb up the relatively easy rock to reach the very airy two man ledgelet on the areté.
4 17 (F3) 15m Leave the small 2 man ledge at its left extremity and climb up the thin face and to the left to reach a large pair of ledges above. Due to the smallness of the previous stance the opening party (5 persons) combined pitches 3 and 4.
5 18 (F3/G1) 45m Move left of the belay stance and layback up the 4m long off-width crack to reach easier ground above. Climb up this to reach the obvious deep roof just right of the easy stepped gully. Pull through the roof awkwardly (crux) and move up the easier ground above to take a belay amongst the blocks on the long ledge above.
NOTES:
1 An excellent, scary route and except for the bat shit here and there, technically pleasing.
2 Protection is reasonable.
3 Descend down the back of the mountain or abseil down the normal route above the first picnic spot.
First Ascent: Mar 1996 N McQueen, D Margetts, TP Willmot, S Norman, G Devine
GOOD VIBRATIONS 19 (G1) ***
At the tunnel end of the wall to the left of KANOUTSA is a prominent low buttress below a fault line which goes all the way to the top (the lowest approach of the cliff to the road). The route starts at the right most open book (facing the road) on this buttress - some 160 paces from the Picnic table closest to the tunnel (in that direction), moves up the broken ground above, climbs a pronounced chimney, makes for the huge roof above and then breaks right to take a deep groove to reach the large grassy ledge below the upper walls.
1 19 (G1) 15m Climb the smooth slab (not much gear) to the left of the root of the book until a diagonally rising crack to the left can be reached. Move up this, dodging tree roots and branches in the process. Take a stance on the ledge amongst the roots,
2 10 (E2/E3) 15m Ascend the blocks in the broken groove until the base of a wall on the left is reached (tree belay).
3 13 (F1) 15m Climb the deep fist crack at the right extremity of the wall above moving up diagonally leftwards until a ledge (large) is reached below a steep wall on the left and a well defined chimney at the back of the recess.
4 15 (F2) 20m Thrutch up the admittedly good chimney to the stance above - good stuff.
5 19 (G1) 10m Take the well defined crack line through the steep wall above to reach the sharp Texas flake below the huge roof high up.
6 15 (F2) 5m Move to the right via a small nose on the areté and step across a bottomless groove to reach the base of a classical open book with a fist crack in the root of the corner (airy though not technically too difficult).
7 19 (G1) 15m Climb the superb book by means of stemming and fist jamming until the right tending rail is reached. Move right to the areté (to miss the roof) and then up to the small ledge above. Mantle onto the very airy sloping stance above (Camp 4).
8 15 (F2) 30m Bring second up and allow to climb across to base of chossy looking groove to the right. Get second to belay leader on fixed nut and krab (above stance) whilst a down climb to the ledge below chossy groove is embarked upon. Climb the groove through some real grot to the large grassy ledge at top (move slightly left at top of groove up well defined crack system).
NOTES:
1 A worthwhile route especially in the mid reaches where the rock is crisp, clean and sharp.
2 Descent via the recognised gully is epic if you get lost.
First Ascent: May 1990 TP Willmot, F Greig
SCALLYWAG 18 (F3/G1) ***
This climb starts about 100m to the left of the first picnic site. The climb takes the obvious large break to the right of a prominent buttress. The climb starts in the rightmost open book.
1 14 (F1/F2) 45m Climb the short open book to a tree. Continue up the recess to a small ledge below a large ramp. Climb up the ramp to a small ledge below a prominent recess.
2 12 (E3) 15m Climb the blocky recess to a large ledge.
3 14 (F1/F2) 25m Climb the recess above into a chimney. Climb the chimney to a good ledge. Move 1m to the right and climb past a tree to a good ledge below a steep corner with a 'hand' sized crack.
4 18 (F3/G1) 20m Climb the corner to a good ledge with a tree.
5 16 (F2/F3) 30m Climb the recess to the large bushy ledge.
First Ascent: Dec 1988 D Margetts, MJ Seegers, A Margetts, T Truter
MEMORIES 21 (G2/G3) ***
This route starts about 50m to the right of the start of scallywag (see 1988 Journal of the Mountain Club). Climbs the obvious open book about 2/3 up the crag.
1 13 (F1) 10m Scramble up to a small ledge. Traverse right to the base of a corner. Climb the corner to belay on top of a large block.
2 21 (G2/G3) 25m Climb the face above the ledge, move left after 5 m. Continue up the face above to the ledge below an overhang.
3 15 (F2) 25m Traverse left into the break, continue up the break past a bushy stance to a ledge below the prominent open book.
4 17 (F3) 20m Climb the right hand open book. Exit left to a tree belay.
5 6 (D) 30m Scramble up the recess traversing right higher up to escape the jungle.
NOTES:
1 For the descent see the MCSA Journal 1988.
First Ascent: May 1992 D Margetts,m Seegers
KANOUTSA 17 (F3)
From the last table, to the left of the picnic site just downstream of the bridge over the road, walk diagonally to the left up to the face. The climb starts in a corner a few metres to the right of a prominent thick tree root, growing down the face, which can also be seen from the road below. The route goes up the recess just to the left of a greenish buttress.
1 14 (F1/F2) 15m Climb a crack in the corner to the top. Move to the right, straddle, and pull up over a boulder to reach a good stance at the level of a horizontal crack.
2 15 (F2) 40m Move down a bit, then using the horizontal crack as a handrail, traverse to the left to the thick tree root. Continue diagonally up to the right over some big blocks to a large vertical crack. Climb the crack (F2).
3 15 (F2) 35m Walk to the right, climb diagonally up to a bushy ledge, then walk to the right again, to the bottom of a smooth, wide crack between the buttress and the main face. Climb up to a chock-stone, mantle shelf out to the right and continue up to the top of a few big blocks. Climb up one metre, then move diagonally to the left, doing a delicate mantle shelf (F2) to reach a small stance.
4 17 (F3) 38m From the left-hand side of the stance, climb down two metres and traverse to the left into a crack. Ascend the crack and, reaching a chockstone, step to the left onto a sloping ledge. Move up (delicate) on the face, then move back into the vertical crack. Continue up by a strenuous layback and straddling to the start of another crack, which is climbed by means of handjamming. Traverse to the right, around a tricky bulge, and climb up to a big chockstone.
5 10 (E2/E3) 40m Continue up to the right over large chockstones to the neck between the buttress and the main face. Climb left over two big chockstones and up the main face to the top.
NOTES:
1 Descent - Walk a 100m to the right into a gully which requires two abseils.
First Ascent: Jan 1975 P Bridgman & E Haber
RAINY DAY WOMAN 21 (G2/G3) ****
This route takes the line that KANOUTSA should have taken but did not. Start as for KANOUTSA. From the last table (in the tunnel direction) of the picnic site just downstream of the bridge over the road walk diagonally to the left up to the face. The route starts in a corner a few metres to the right of a prominent thick tree root growing down the face. The route climbs "direttissima" to the top.
1 15 (F2) 20m Climb the crack until it fades. Move slightly left, climb to the top of a small block and traverse right awkwardly under the roof to reach the large ledge at the back of which is a pronounced crack system.
2 17 (F3) 25m Climb the vertical crack which then changes into a steep thin slab. Move up this until a Y-shaped feature is reached comprising two chimneys. Climb the right of the two chimneys to reach the large ledge above. At the back of the ledge is a faint line with a small roof above. There is a pocked face to the left of the roof. At the right extremity of the ledge is a large gendarmé with an off width crack to its left between the gendarmé and the buttress.
3 21 (G2/G3) 45m Climb the faint crack moving left under the roof to reach the pocked face. Move up (crux) to reach the ledge above the roof. Above the ledge is a pronounced overhanging crack system. Climb this moving left at the top of the crack at which point the base of a thin steep slab is reached. Climb this to a small resting ledge with tree. Climb yet another thin steep slab above the ledge to reach the base of a vertical thin wall above which has a pronounced crack system bisecting it. Climb the crack to reach the large ledge above. Move delicately right and gain the steep thin slab above with difficulty. Climb this to the spacious ledge above. Take a belay.
4 10 (E2/E3) 30m Climb the choss feature between the buttress and the main face. Move onto the main face and climb this to a belay ledge. Scramble off. This last pitch is common with that of KANOUTSA.
NOTES:
1 Descend by traversing upstream until the cliff high left slanting feature appears opposite you (on the other ride of the gully down the back of the mountain). Scramble down the scree to reach the base of the gully, turn right and walk down to the road.
2 Protection is excellent.
3 If it was not for the last pitch this route would have five stars. Magnificent climbing. This is real stalky stuff.
First Ascent: Jan 1988 D Margetts, K Thrash, TP Willmot, T Walker
TURNING POINT 20 (G2) ***
This climb is situated directly above the first picnic site. An obvious chimney/recess, which curves rightwards when viewed from the road, marks the first pitch of the climb.
1 15 (F2) 35m Climb on to a ledge and then ascend a short corner to a higher ledge (tricky). Walk along the ledge past a tree to below a chimney. Climb the chimney moving right near the top to a good stance.
2 15 (F2) 35m Move right along the ledge and climb the recess to a ledge. Climb up a further recess onto another ledge. Continue up a corner to a good ledge. Traverse left across an easy face towards a recess and make a difficult move into a gully with a tree. Continue up a few metres higher to a good ledge below a steep face.
3 20 (G2) 12m Climb up the initial step onto a good ledge. Starting at the tree stump climb the steep crack, in the shallow corner, to a good ledge.
4 18 (F3/G1) 20m Move left along the ledge to the base of an attractive corner with a 'fist' sized crack. Climb the corner until it widens to off-width and then hand traverse right to another ledge. Climb the short left-facing corner to a good ledge.
5 8 (E1)10m Scramble up the gully past an initial tricky section. The gully splits into two and the climb follows the right-hand recess.
6 12 (E3) 50m Climb the recess moving right at the overhang. Continue straight up the face (easy 'D' climbing) past a broad ledge up to a wide bushy ledge.
7 12 (E3/F1) 40m This pitch ascends the final section of the crag and a small overhang marks the start. Climb the buttress, starting at the undercut section. Step up and left onto a nose and continue up the steep, juggy face to the top of the crag.
First Ascent: Sep 1988 D Margetts & MJ Seegers
MAGICAL MYSTERY TOUR 20 (G2) *****
The route takes the crack line/open book down which the traditional abseil route moves. Start in the deep wide chimney immediately above the first major picnic site below the river/bridge. Start up the 100mm wide left leaning crack in the right containing wall of the chimney - cairn.
1 19 (G1) 25m Climb up the crack to about halfway and then move right to the areté. Move right and then up to gain the good jam crack on the right. Move up this (on occasion in friction) to reach the large tree at the left extremity of the ledge above.
2 20 (G2) 25m Walk to the right extremity of the ledge and climb the broken groove above to reach the tree below the roof in the groove. Move up the groove and traverse right under the roof to gain the base of the steep looking open book above with a tree at its base (tricky). Climb the steep open book (strenuous and sustained) to the ledge at the top. Take a comfortable belay.
NOTES:
1 Protection is excellent.
2 A superb, technically pleasing, sustained route on crisp clean sharp rock.
3 Abseil from the tree at the top of the second pitch.
First Ascent: Mar 1996 S Norman, G Devine, D Margetts, TP Willmot, N McQueen
ITS A KINDA TRAGIC 23 (H1) *****
This climb ascends the short buttress to the right of the right hand descent gully. The start is below the smooth slab and aims for the left hand open book on the second pitch. The climb MAGICAL MYSTERY TOUR ascends the right hand open book.
1 19 (G1) 25m Climb the slab, starting slightly right making for the small overlap with a crack through it. Once on the upper headwall traverse 3m left (crux) and ascend to the long ledge with a tree.
2 23 (H1) 25m Climb the same open book as MAGICAL MYSTERY TOUR but do not traverse right at the first overhang but continue up and make a traverse right 2m at the larger overhang above. Your are now directly below the left hand open book. Climb this. The crux is to gain the base of the open book.
NOTES:
1 Descent: One abseil off tree
First Ascent: May 1996 N McQueen, D Margetts, G Devine, E Istead
SCOTCH ON THE ROCKS 19 (G1) ****
Immediately above the bridge across the stream on the right hand side moving down towards the tunnel is a small gully. Gain this gully by scrambling up the face above the first picnic spot after the bridge and traversing diagonally up rightwards. Move up the gully to the last obvious line on the true right of the gully. The line has, as objective, the steeply overhanging fist wide crack high up - cairn.
1 19 (G1) 28m Climb the open book to the small roof above. Break through this on the right (The walls below and above the roof are smooth) by means of tricky climbing. Move up the crack and pass the nettle tree on the left. Climb up the open book to reach the overhanging off width crack above. Move up this, with caution, to reach the comfortable ledge on top.
NOTES:
1 A 19 route with attitude - steep and sustained.
2 Protection is adequate.
3 A superlative technical climb.
4 Descend by moving slightly upstream and scrambling down. One short abseil.
First Ascent: Mar 1997 S Broccardo, TP Willmot, L Costa
WHITE ROUTE 17 (F3) ***
The route ascends the root choked crack to reach the Y-shaped crack feature just to the left of BLACK CORNER.
The route starts at the base of a white root choked left leaning crack which starts at the left extremity of a large detached block some 30m left of the start of BLACK CORNER - cairn.
1 17 (F3) 21m Climb the face next to the crack containing the profusion of roots. Use the roots for a sling here and there. If the roots were not there, this pitch would be a lot harder. Follow the crack up to a comfortable ledge.
2 16 (F2/F3) 18m Move left along a bush choked ledge to reach the base of a clean looking flake. Lay back up this and climb the face above to reach the base of the attractive looking left leaning crack. Traverse right to reach the base of the main open book above.
3 17 (F3) 20m Climb the open book carefully to reach the small ledge up and to the left.
4 16 (F2/F3) 25m Traverse right and move up to reach the second open book just above the crux open book of the route BLACK CORNER. Climb the face to the left of this to reach the stance on the very roomy ledge below the large roof above, with the attractive crack leading up to it.
5 15 (F2) 25m From the stance one can see a crack leading leftwards and up towards the areté on the skyline. Step down left off the stance and traverse to the hanging flake and loose block with a tree slightly to the left. Climb the hanging flake to clear the tree. Climb up the crack above and move left to reach the areté. Move up this to reach the comfortable belay stance with tree.
6 11 (E3) 20m Climb the broken groove until forced rightwards by the large roof. Break through this where convenient and climb up to take a comfortable stance on top.
NOTES:
1 Good belay ledges.
2 A surprisingly clean route: technically pleasing.
3 Protection is adequate throughout even if root based.
4 From the top of the sixth pitch move down the steep woody gully (1 abseil) to emerge at the start of BLACK CORNER.
5 The last 3 pitches are common with those of the route BLACK CORNER.
First Ascent: Mar 1997 01 G Devine, TP Willmot, L Costa 33 RAINBOW NATION 17F3*** Start at the same place as DOUBLE GREEN. 1 16 (F2/F3) 25m Start as for DOUBLE GREEN but instead of tending to the left, move straight up tending slightly to the right up to a large ledge 2 16 (F2/F3) 25m Move up the recess above the ledge. Traverse left above the tree. Move up the short ramp to below the overhanging crack. Climb this then climb to the top of a block. Finally traverse right to take a belay on a block. 3 17 (F3) 25m Traverse right along the broken ledge to below a overhanging recess with a crack on the left. Climb this passing a tree on the left. Continue to a large ledge. 4 11 (E3) 25m Climb the short recess above the ledge. Continue up the right hand edge of the face to the top of the crag (1st part shared with DOUBLE GREEN). @ Mar 1997 C Nicole, D Margetts
BLACK CORNER 22 (G3/H1) ***
The route ascends the second prominent buttress on the true left when driving down towards the Strijdom Tunnel. One approaches the buttress by moving some 30m towards the tunnel from the bridge and then moving down off the verge to cross the river. Move across the Tuffa plain to reach the second buttress from the road. The route has, as objective, the short black looking open book about half way up in the centre.
The route starts at the right extremity of the buttress at a very large Paperbark tree at the base of an easy angled slab. (Some 4m left of the start of the climb DOUBLE GREEN.)
1 13 (F1) 25m Climb up the centre of the slab moving left just below the top to reach a ledge choked with lots of stalky choss. Protection is not obvious but is adequate.
2 22 (G3/H1) 25m Move up the broken rock above the stance to reach the base of the black slightly left leaning steep open book above. Stem up this to exit at the top in a state of perspiration and move up to the short wall above capped by a small roof on the right. Climb the right hand side of the wall at the crack and exit left to take a stance on the very roomy ledge below the large roof above, with the attractive crack leading up to it.
3 15 (F2) 25m From the stance one can see a crack leading leftwards and up towards the areté on the skyline. Step down left off the stance and traverse to the hanging flake and loose block with a tree slightly to the left. Climb the hanging flake to clear the tree. Climb up the crack above and move left to reach the areté. Move up this to reach the comfortable belay stance with tree.
4 11 (E3) 20m Climb the broken groove above until forced rightwards by the large roof. Break through this where convenient and climb up to take a comfortable stance on top.
NOTES:
1 Good belay ledges.
2 On the opening ascent the seconds could not manage the 22 (G3/H1) pitch due to broken ribs, fright, etc. One opened a variation just prior to the crux by reaching right and pulling up the areté at grade 19 (G1) and the others by moving delicately left across the wall just before the crux and pulling up the left areté at grade 19 (G1).
3 A superlative clean route, technically pleasing.
4 Protection is adequate throughout.
5 From the top of the fourth pitch move down the steep woody gully (1 abseil) to emerge at the start of the climb at the huge Paperbark tree.
First Ascent: Jan 1997 C Nicole, D Margetts, L Costa, TP Willmot & G Devine
RATBAG 14 (F1/F2) ***
The route has, as objective, the steep, jagged looking crack just to the right of BLACK CORNER. Start 2m to the right of BLACK CORNER - cairn.
1 13 (F1) 25m Climb the faint crack up the slab to reach the ledge system below BLACK CORNER. Traverse along this to take a belay on the first stance of BLACK CORNER amongst the stalky choss.
2 14 (F1/F2) 25m Move up the broken rock above the stance to the base of the jagged looking crack some 3m to the right of the black corner. Climb up the steep flake and the easier ground above to take a stance on the ledge next to the huge Paperbark tree.
3 13 (F1) 25m Traverse to the right, over the tree trunk, across a bottomless groove and up over the detached block to reach the base of the chicken head spattered faint groove just shy of the areté. Climb the groove and the face above to reach the humungous ledge..
4 13 (F1) 30m Choose a line up the broken blocks at the back of the ledge. Climb up to take a comfortable stance on top.
NOTES:
1 Good belay ledges.
2 Protection is adequate.
3 An excellent route on clean rock, technically pleasing.
4 From the top of the fourth pitch move down the steep woody gully (1 abseil) to emerge at the start of the climb.
First Ascent: Apr 1997 L Costa, TP Willmot
DOUBLE GREEN 17 (F3) ****
This climb ascends a prominent buttress on the left hand side of road when going down hill towards Strijdom Tunnel.
Take the path directly down to the river and cross the river. Continue through bush towards a obvious buttress with a steep bush gully to the right. Climb starts on the smooth slab at the left hand edge of the steep gully and makes for the prominent tree 3/4 of the way up the buttress.
1 14 (F1/F2) 25m Climb the faint crack line up the slab starting at the right hand edge of the buttress moving diagonally left until a good ledge is reached.
2 17 (F3) 25m Climb up a short distance then traverse left to a large block. Climb up above the block. Continue directly up to the ledge below the tree. Climb to the ledge above the tree.
3 17 (F3) 30m From the ledge traverse left to below a obvious crack line. Climb this to a large ledge.
4 12 (E3/F1) 30m Climb the easy rock above tending left.
NOTES:
1 Descend the gully on the right (looking up). One abseil.
First Ascent: Jul 1996 D Margetts, G Devine, C Nicole
RAINBOW NATION 17 (F3) ***
Start at the same place as DOUBLE GREEN.
1 16 (F2/F3) 25m Start as for DOUBLE GREEN but instead of tending to the left, move straight up tending slightly to the right up to a large ledge.
2 16 (F2/F3) 25m Move up the recess above the ledge. Traverse left above the tree. Move up the short ramp to below the overhanging crack. Climb this then climb to the top of a block. Finally traverse right to take a belay on a block.
3 17 (F3) 25m Traverse right along the broken ledge to below a overhanging recess with a crack on the left. Climb this passing a tree on the left. Continue to a large ledge.
4 11 (E3) 25m Climb the short recess above the ledge. Continue up the right hand edge of the face to the top of the crag (1st part shared with DOUBLE GREEN).
First Ascent: Mar 1997 C Nicole & D Margetts
WAITING FOR THE BUS 20 (G2) ***
Scramble up the gully to the right of the double green buttress. Climb through the worm hole on the left. At this point traverse right along a ledge (opening party used ropes) to an obvious open book capped by an overhang.
1 20 (G2) 20m Climb up the corner to the roof. At this point traverse left for 5m then move up to a ledge. Climb up and leftwards to a good ledge with a tree.
2 18 (F3/G1) 15m Climb the wide crack above the ledge to a small stance. Continue up to a sloping stance with a wide crack where the sloping stance meets the face behind.
3 17 (F3) 15m Traverse right up the crack. At this point continue further right and down to a stance.
4 15 (F2) 15m Climb diagonally right up to a root then move right and up to a stance in the recess.
5 18 (F3/G1) 30m Traverse right to the recess with a tree in it. Climb the recess past the tree. Continue up the recess, finishing up a crack system to the top.
NOTES:
1 Traverse right and then up the scree slope. Descend the obvious gully with a short section of down climbing (on left looking down) to the base of the crag.
First Ascent: Oct 1997 D Margetts, M Philipps, K Thrash
IFIDI ICE 17 (F3) ***
IFIDI ICE takes the recess/crack system to the left (looking up) of the climb ONE OF THE LADS. Scramble up as far as you can below ONE OF THE LADS.
1 15 (F2) 25m Climb a short ramp to a tree. Traverse left to a buttress. Make a tricky move left to a recess, climb the recess to the large ledge with an obvious open book/corner.
2 17 (F3) 20m Climb the open book/corner to a ledge on the right.
3 13 (F1) 20m Climb directly up the face to a stance directly below the slot.
4 17 (F3) 25m Climb up the slot/recess making a tricky move leftwards. Continue up the corner to a ramp. Traverse left across the ramp to the exposed areté. Climb this to the large ledge.
NOTES:
1 The opening party climbed a further two pitches of nondescript rock and descended as for ONE OF THE LADS, but this is not recommended. An abseil down the gully to the left (looking up) of the climb is recommended.
First Ascent: Aug 1997 D Margetts, G Devine, K Thrash, P Carstensen
ONE OF THE LADS 16 (F2/F3) ***
The route MABALENG has, as a salient feature, a large roof low down with a splash of white bird shit below it. To the left of this route is a prominent low buttress. ONE OF THE LADS takes the very marked slightly right leaning (certainly not incipient) groove between the above two features. Start at the right extremity of the prominent low buttress immediately below the groove.
1 11 (E3) 40m Climb up the smooth rock in the gully making for the clean cracks slightly to the right. Move up these until forced left by the containing wall to the right. When level with the Paperbark tree move left and take a stance on the tree.
2 16 (F2/F3) 40m Climb the crack immediately behind the Paperbark tree and move around the tree growing horizontally out of the crack. Climb the chimney above and ascend the knobbed face to the right of the small pinnacle on the left. Take a stance on the ledge at the Maroela tree.
3 16 (F2/F3) 27m Climb the obvious broken looking groove immediately behind the stance and move up the chimney above to just prior to the roof above. At this level break right and around the areté to move up the fine face to reach a sloping ledge with a large rocking block at its back.
4 16 (F2/F3) 40m Climb up behind the rocking block and move right to clear the mild roof above. Move back left and climb up into the open book above. Move up this until it fizzles out and then move right around the areté to reach the steep crisp wall on the right. Move right to the base of the flake system. Climb this moving slightly leftwards to clear the roof on the right. Climb up to the huge ledge above. Take a stance.
5 11 (E3) 28m Above the stance and to the right is a headwall with the beautiful crack taken by MABALENG moving through it. Climb between this wall and the large detached block to the left until able to move right at the top of the wall section. Walk right and climb again the crack/chimney between the wall and another large detached block. Move up and to the right to take a stance on some sloping blocks at the base of a clean looking pillar.
6 11 (E3) 25m Climb halfway up the pillar and then move right into the main gully. (Do not climb the pillar to the top as it is detached.) Fight through some thorny choss to the right open book. Climb this and then traverse left to take a cramped stance on a small ledge in the middle of the gully face.
7 11 (E3) 40m Take an incipient line to the top.
NOTES:
1 An excellent route of middle grade.
2 Protection is adequate throughout.
3 The best descent route is down the back of the mountain to reach the tar road upstream of the bridge or down the descent gully specified in BLACK CORNER. The opening party descended the left gully of the Y-shaped feature immediately to the left of the route, but the gully is loose and considered to be extremely dangerous.
First Ascent: Feb 1997 TP Willmot, G Devine & L Costa
MABALENG 18 (F3/G1) ***
The climb starts to the left of a large roof 35m up with a white streak below it (Bird shit). Takes the obvious break then left onto face for approximately 40m. From here the route generally follows a direct line to the top.
1 16 (F2/F3) 25m Start at the base of a left slanting bushy recess. Move right at ±10m and ascend till the base of a small pillar. Belay from here.
2 12 (E3/F1) 10m Traverse left for 3m then up and left onto leafy platform.
3 18 (F3/G1) 35m Hand traverse 4m in crack on the left wall and move onto areté. Ascend superb easy rock for 30m. Belay from recess.
4 14 (F1/F2) 35m Climb left face for 25m then move across recess onto right wall and up to a small ledge.
5 15 (F2) 45m Continue up on good rock to a large ledge.
6 13 (F1) 20m Climb directly up onto another ledge and belay from large tree at back of ledge.
7 16 (F2/F3) 20m Climb left for a few meters then up and through the roof to a ledge. Scramble to the top.
NOTES:
1 The descent gully can be located by walking eastwards along the edge of the cliff - ±100m. Scramble down scree slope and boulders until recess is reached.
First Ascent: Feb 1997 I Mcmaster & A Erasmus

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