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Guide for The Hell

Climb INDEX * The North Face * The West Face * Helspruit Kloof * Barbel Pool Crag

The North Face
The Main Face consists of both the North and West faces. Looking from the campsite overlooking the Olifants River, the two main sectors of the Main Face (North and West) are blatantly obvious: the North face is to the right of the Helspruit and the West face to the left. Approach to routes on the North face is best achieved by crossing the Olifants river at the point where the river turns through ninety degrees to the left, making use of the boulders when the river is sufficiently low. A vague path, which becomes more distinct further upstream, follows the true right bank of the Helspruit initially. Continue up the Helspruit, crossing from one bank to the other as obstacles dictate, until approximately 80 metres from the mouth of the Helspruit Kloof. (This takes 20 minutes only). Here there is a former campsite in some trees on the true left bank of the Helspruit. (You are now almost vertically below the ramp feature taken by the route, Portal ; this route also doubles as the descent route from most routes on the North face. Hence this is a good base from which to work). To access routes on the North face, scramble up the scruffy hillside (loose in places) until you encounter rock. Simply follow the base of the rock to your chosen route. Beware! Resist the temptation to cross the Olifants River and simply make a beeline for the routes high up the slope (such as Winter Water ) - the bush can be very thick and resistant to penetration! You have been warned! Rather walk for 10 minutes longer, as described above, and hence follow a reasonably clear path. Note: All routes, on both sections of the Main Face, ie (North) and (West), are listed in order as they occur when approaching from the Helspruit, and as they appear when facing the crag from below:
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PORTAL 11 (E3) [N]
This is the North Face descent route. The route lies up the ramp that slopes diagonally up towards the left. It is situated near the eastern end of the North Face, a few minutes walk up from The Hell Kloof.
1. 6 (C) 60m Start 6m to the left of the corner. Move diagonally up to the left for 14m. Climb diagonally up to the right for 9m to the large ledge, then walk to the right along the ledge to the corner. Move up the corner to a three-foot broad ledge. Walk to the left along the ledge for 9m and then climb diagonally back up to the right to the corner.
2. 11 (E3) 24m Climb the right-hand crack for 3m. Climb a short chimney for 3m and then scramble for 9m to a large tree at the foot of the next chimney. Ascend the chimney for 6m to a small tree on a large ledge.
3. 7 (D) 45m Scramble 8m to a series of trees on a large ledge. Climb diagonally up to the left, around the skyline, to a series of trees on a large ledge. Climb diagonally up to the left, around the skyline, to a grassy ramp. Ascend the ramp and then continue to the left along a broad, grassy ledge for 30m.
4. 7 (D) 18m Move diagonally up to the right to a bushy ledge.
5. 6 (C) 45m Continue up diagonally up to the left to the top.
First Ascent: Issy Cohen & Robyn Forsyth Jul 1965
 
RAZE THE DEAD 18 (F3) *** [N]
The line takes the break, down the left-hand side of the buttress to the left of SCOPUS which gains the top of the buttress at the end of its fourth pitch. The buttress features a large roof near its top.
Start at the bottom of the descent ramp (taken by PORTAL), in the right-hand corner. Scramble easily up the corner for 20m and belay in a bushy tree.
1. 18 (F3) 25m Climb up the ramp for 3m to an obvious ledge leading out right wards. Traverse right along this for 5m, gain the short, steep layback crack above and follow this into a steep groove. Exit right wards from the groove, traverse 4m right and then climb up to belay next to a small tree at the foot of the corner above.
2. 16 (F2) 20m Start behind the tree. Climb up to gain the crack in the right-hand wall of the corner. Follow this until it is possible to step left into the main corner crack, above a roof. Climb the corner for 10m, step right into the off-width crack and ascend into the cubby-hole stance, above. A superb pitch.
3. 14 (F1) 30m Climb directly up the break above, passing a chock stone. After 20m a sloping ledge appears on the right (this is about 4m below the roof which caps the break): traverse 5m right and up on this ledge and then climb the front of the short buttress above, to a broad sloping ledge. (SCOPUS joins the route at this point)
4. 14 (F1) 50m Climb straight to the top, via a series of short buttresses, tending slightly left wards.
First Ascent: Russ Dodding, Barbara Marcus, Adele Margetts Aug 1990
 
QUANTUM LEAP 22 (G3) *** [N]
The main feature of the route is the obvious open book 60m up, on the front of the column to the right of RAZE THE DEAD. Start to the left of the cave, which is at the base of the column.
1. 22 (G3) 45m Climb up for 3m to below an overhang and then traverse right for 5m until it is possible to break through the overhang. Continue diagonally right wards past large blocks into a crack/recess. Climb this for 3m until the crack ends and then traverse right to a smooth face with a short, broken crack system. Climb the face for 7m (crux), then move diagonally right onto the arete. Ascend the arete (poorly protected) and then traverse right into a large recess. Tree stance.
2. 19 (G1) 20m Climb 4m to a thin handrail, then traverse left at this level to the arete. Ascend to a large overhang and then traverse left under it (well protected but very exposed), to a ramp at the foot of the large open book.
3. 17 (F3) 30m Climb the corner to a small sloping platform for 3m, then traverse right around the arete to a stance at a small tree.
4. 20 (G2) 45m Climb up 5m to the roof crack. Take this and then continue to he top of the buttress. Climb diagonally up left for 20m to a large ledge.
5. 15 (F2) 20m Traverse diagonally left for 5m into a corner; follow this to a roof, rail left to a small tree, pull through and continue easily to the top.
First Ascent: Paul Every & Mark Seuring Jul 1992
 
ALLMACHTIGER 20 (G2) *** [N]
A route between RAZE THE DEAD and SCOPUS; it climbs up the right hand side of the pillar-like buttress. A break runs down the right hand side of the buttress; start to the right of this, at a cairn.
1. 20 (G2) 45m Climb diagonally up left 6m to an overhang. Traverse 2m right, then continue diagonally left wards for 10m into the bottom of the black open book. Follow this to a stance.
2. 15 (F2) 45m Climb up for 30m. then climb diagonally left for 10m to a stance in the centre of the buttress. There is an overhang 10m above.
3. 15 (F2) 45m Climb up to the left hand end of the overhang, climb right wards above the roof and then gain the top of the buttress.
(The route above this point is common with both SCOPUS and RAZE THE DEAD; climb pitch 4 of RAZE THE DEAD to the top.)
Note : Good rock with generally good protection.
First Ascent: Herbert Seuring & Erwin Muller Jul 1990
 
SCOPUS 11 (E3) [N]
Start on easy rock about 30m to the left of VIGINITI, below and to the right of a recess on the right-hand side of a prominent buttress.
1. 10 (E2) 30m Climb diagonally up to the left to a tree stance on a good ledge.
2. 11 (E3) 28m Climb up a 3m crack just to the right of the stance, followed by a sloping face to a tree. Move down and to the left across to the recess and then climb up to a large tree and a good stance.
Alternatively : 16 (F2) Instead of moving down into the recess, climb a very thin face and traverse to the left to the stance.
3. 10 (E2) 25m Climb diagonally to the left up the buttress and between two prominent overhangs to a tree on a large sloping rock ledge.
4. 10 (E2) 16m Climb diagonally up to the right onto the next smaller buttress. Traverse to the right to a block on the corner about 2m beyond a vertical crack. Climb the corner to the top of the buttress.
Alternatively : 13 (F1) Climb the aforementioned crack.
5. 8 (E1) 34m Climb straight upwards.
6. 7 (D) 13m Continue to the top.
First Ascent: John Anderson & Paul Fatti Jul 1967
 
DAYS OF RED 19 (G1) *** [N]
Start just to the right of SCOPUS.
1. 17 (F3) 48m Climb up the ramp-like face (easy angle) for about 20m, heading up diagonally left wards. Pass a few metres to the right of small trees to gain access to an inverted V-like face with a distinct crack on the right. Using lay backs and under clings climb the crack to the top where it is possible to stretch out to the projecting nose on the left. Continue to a blocky stance with trees (about 5m to the right of a deep recess). A very enjoyable pitch.
2. 19 (G1) 27m From the stance move awkwardly right for 3m to the base of an overhanging crack. Climb this (crux) for 4m, then up a stepped arete for 10m until it is possible to reach right into a vertical crack. Climb up to the level of a big tree, then move right to stance at the tree.
3. 15 (F2) 30m Climb up over blocks to a corner. (This corner is the one down and left of that taken by HELTER SKELTER'S main pitch..) Climb this for a few metres then move left to a recess below a small tree. Climb the recess past the tree, then move left onto the arete. Climb up the arete to a blocky ledge with trees (stance).
4. 15 (F2) 50m Move up from the tree to the small roof, then left below the roof (awkward) for 5m, around the corner and past the first recess. Follow the easiest route to the top.
First Ascent: Gordon Erens, Russ Dodding & Maria Erens May 1992 (Pitches 3&4 by Gordon Erens, Marena Erens & Maria Erens in Aug 1990)
 
VIGINITI 16 (F2) [N]
Start at the base of a clean crack in an open book on the North Face some 60m to the left of MAD DOGS. Scramble up 15m to a tree belay at the base of a crack.
1. 16 (F2) 15m Climb the crack to an excellent tree belay.
2. 13 (F1) 33m Step to the left and climb the ramp above to an extensive grassy ledge.
3. 10 (E2) 33m Climb diagonally up to the right along a ledge above the overhangs.
4. 13 (F1) 25m Traverse around the corner on the right, climb the slight recess and then move diagonally back to the left.
5. 7 (D) 20m Climb diagonally up to the left over easy rock to the top.
First Ascent: Paul Fatti & John Anderson Jun 1967
 
HELTER-SKELTER 19 (G1) **** [N]
Start at the same point as VIRGINITI, at the small tree belay.
1. 16 (F2) 22m Traverse diagonally left to the arete, over blocky rock. Around the arete to the left is a short pillar; climb this and the open book above. At the top of the open book, traverse right to a good stance, at a small tree.
2. 16 (F2) 31m Ascend the open book above the tree, to the roof above. Move left and then gain the groove above in an exposed position. Climb the groove for 4m, then pull out on to the slab on the right. Above is a pleasant, easy open book; climb this to the large grassy ledge.
3. 19 (G1) 40m Start 3m right of some large blocks on the upper ledge. Climb a short buttress (3m), to the level of an obvious left ward leaning ramp. Follow the break to the tree below the large open book. Climb the open book, with a tricky section at 5m, to a stance in the corner at a long, narrow ledge (approximately 8m below the large, capping roof.) It may be preferable to break this pitch into two, at the tree below the open book.
4. 18 (F3) 18m Climb up and slightly left wards from the stance. A short crack gives access to a slab above. Traverse left at the level of an obvious, thin rail. Make tricky moves left & up, until beyond the roof; ascend easier ground above to the top (tree belay).
First Ascent: Russ Dodding, Barbara Marcus & Gorden Erens Aug 1990 (Pitches 3&4 opened by Chris Leslie-Smith & party in Aug, 1990)
 
MAD DOGS 18,A0 (F3,M0) [N]
1. 11 (E3) 35m The first 15m are the same as for XIEPXEOPXIXOROP, then climb diagonally up to the left for 6m. Ascend more or less straight up to a small, four-man stance under an overhang.
2. 18, M0 (F3,M0) 20m Move 6m to the left and continue upwards to the left-hand side of the sloping overhangs. Using layback handholds, mount the left-hand side of the block on the right-hand side of a shallow-angled crack. Traverse to the left to straddle the crack and, using a fixed piton, climb to the left to a two-man stance. This pitch is very severe for short people.
3. 15 (F2) 28m Ascend the left-hand side of the prominent open book 5m from the crack. The stance will hold at least four persons.
4. 13 (F1) 30m Climb diagonally up to the right across a series of ridges to a point where the route deteriorates into a scramble.
The route is short, but difficult. It is not suitable for large parties, or for climbing in summer.
First Ascent: Ken Bennetts & Tom Kerrich - Jun 1963
 
XIEPXEOPXIXOROP 11 (E3) [N]
The route starts about 10 minutes walk from the gorge. A cairn will be found next to a large crack.
1. 11 (E3) 18m Climb up and slightly to the right for 4m. Traverse 3, to the left. Ascend an open book for 3m and then traverse to the right, using layback handholds 6m to a small stance on a ledge. A block belay will be found at the right-hand end of the stance.
2. 11 (E3) 33m Traverse to the right and then climb slightly up 9m. Climb vertically up for 10m to a small ledge below an open book. Traverse 2m to the left, then climb 2m up a corner. Move up 3m over a tricky rock to a ledge accommodating a naboom. Continue up 6m to a small stance. A sharp rock may be used as a belay point.
3. 10 (E) 12m Traverse to the right to a prominent tree. The stance holds four people.
4. 10 (E) 30m Move to the left into a crack and ascend it for 6m before moving out on to the left-hand wall. Continue up to the second ledge.
5. 10 (E) 30m From the sloping ledge, climb up the corner for 2m and then swing into the open book on the left. Climb up and over the weathered slabs of rock for 3m, then traverse to the right and climb up to a ledge. Traverse to the right and climb up to a ledge. Traverse to the right again on to a nose of rock.
6. 7 (D) 25m Another 25m of climbing, tending slightly to the right. leads to the top of the route.
First Ascent: Tom Kerrich, Peter Anderson, Louis Pienaar & Monica Galvin - May 1963
 
CATCH TWO 19 (G1) [N]
The climb starts at the foot of a prominent crack to the left of DEE.
1. 13 (F1) 40m Climb right hand crack to ledge. Continue up open book to tree. Step left onto ridge and follow same to good stance below overhang.
2. 19 (G1) 40m Follow crack passing big overhang on its right hand side. Traverse left above overhang for 3m. Ascend thin face for about 3m and then traverse left to ledge. Climb steep face above to tree belay.
3. 10 (E) 25m Scramble easy rock to top.
First Ascent: D Cheesemond & E Druschke Jun 1979
 
DEE 7 (D) [N]
The route runs diagonally to the left up the easy-looking face about 90m to the right of the start of XIEPXEOPXIXOROP.
1. 7 (D) 30m Climb diagonally up to the left for 18m, diagonally up to the right for 6m and then back diagonally to the left for 6m to a three man stance at a good small tree.
2. 7 (D) 30m Climb to the left to the corner 4m above another tree. Move to the left around the corner and then continue up to an extensive grass ledge. Scramble to the left and up to a good tree stance in a recess that is blocked at the top and downside by overhangs (45m 5 (B))
3. 7 (D) 30m Move out to the left and then continue diagonally to the left up a sloping face to an extensive grass ledge. This ledge is common with the end of XIEPXEOPXIXOROP. It is possible to scramble off to the left from here.
4. 7 (D) 30m Continue straight up to the top.
First Ascent: John Anderson, Norah Galvin & Sonja Heyne May 1966
 
ALTERNATIVE FINISH TO DEE 15 (F2) [N]
Climb DEE for the first two pitches to the grass ledge; make a stance at the right-hand end of this ledge. These pitches have good solid rock but are not over protected.
3. 15 (F2) 45m Climb straight up the corner above the stance, to an obvious tree belay.
4. 15 (F2) 45m Climb straight up to the top of the crag.
First Ascent: Mark Seuring, Herbert Seuring, Erwin Muller Jul 1990
 
DAMNATION! OFF ROUTE AGAIN! 18 (F3) [N]
The route starts about halfway between The Hellspruit and the highest point on the North Wall. There is a large orange shield shaped block at the base of a small amphitheatre which is situated about halfway up the rock face. Viewed from below the shield shaped block appears as a large jutting nose with a smaller dark jutting block below and slightly to the left of it.
1. 15 (F2) 35m Start at easiest looking point about 10m to the right of the right hand edge of the orange nose. Climb up and diagonally left to a grassy sloping ledge below a sloping face which is about 4m to the right and below the smaller dark block.
2. 17 (F3) 50m There are 2 cracks in the rock band above the sloping face. Climb up to the right hand crack and pull/layback through a small overhang and continue up sloping rock diagonally left to the base of the large orange block. Traverse below the block and belay at its left hand edge.
3. 12 (E3) 25m Above there is loose looking broken rock and a series of overhangs bordered on the left by a large smooth NW facing wall. Traverse to the left past the bottom of the wall to the base of a small open book immediately left of the wall to the base of a small open book immediately left of the wall and capped by a roof. Belay below small roof at the base of the open book.
4. 18 (F3) 50m Move back right 1-2m and then climb a sloping face diagonally left to gain the open book. Climb the open book to the roof and exit through a break on the left. Move back right and continue straight up on easier rock to a tree belay.
Scramble about 20m to the top.
First Ascent: Rose & Gavin Mackintosh Aug 1992
 
LOOKING FOR CLUES 18 (F3) [N]
Start below the left-hand end of a large, white stepped overhang which is 15m above the ground; this is approximately 45m right of the start of DEE. Cairn.
1. 17 (F3) 42m Climb to the base of a shallow groove (tricky); step left and gain the arete on the left. Climb this, past the left-hand end of the roof and then straight up past the end of a second, smaller roof. Climb diagonally right to a rail, descend 2m and then traverse right until able to gain the comfortable stance at the obvious tree.
2. 14 (F1) 50m Climb the slabby corner to the left of the tree to a second tree and ledge. Walk 3m right and then ascend directly up grooves to ledges in the base of the large amphitheatre. Stance on the left, at the foot of a shallow corner, which is to the right of a clean, smooth face. Good rope management required.
3. 18 (F3) 40m Traverse diagonally left across the foot of the smooth face, into a large groove line. Follow this, with a tricky exit move; step right 2m (avoid small, loose blocks) and climb up steep rock above. Move right for 3m to a reasonable stance, which is level with a long overlap to the right. Above is a groove/corner line.
4. 18 (F3) 35m Follow the groove line above, lay-backing around two small overlaps, to an excellent hand-traverse line left wards, at 15m. Rail left to the arete; climb this for 4m and then the wall above, climbing slightly left wards, to finish up a short, clean corner.
First Ascent: Erwin Muller, Russ Dodding, Herbert Seuring, Mark Seuring Jul 1989
 
SCENE OF THE CRIME 19,A1 (G1,M1) [N]
Start 7m left of SATANIC VERSES, at the base of a left-leaning ramp. Cairn.
1. 18 (F3) 55m Climb diagonally left wards up the ramp to its top. Gain the smooth face above and then hand-traverse 5m right into a recess. Follow this recess/crack-line to a ledge with a tree on the right (good stance if the pitch is to be broken). Step left, onto a rib, and follow this to its top; climb up trending slightly right, over ledges, to stance at the foot of a grassy open book (stance common with SATANIC VERSES).
2. 17 (F3) 25m Climb the left arete of the open book for 5m, move into the corner on the right and then diagonally left onto the arete. Climb this and then straight up, over steep rock, to a good stance to the left of a block/pillar belay.
3. 18 (F3) 50m From the block belay, traverse 2m to the right, ascend a crack for 3m and then step onto the top of a small pillar (block); hand traverse 2m right and pull up onto easier ground. Follow the long, easy ramp of grade 11, pass a tree on its right and up to a good block belay (stance common with INTERSECTION).
4. 19,A1 (G1,M1) 50m Gain the open book on the left by descending 2m. Follow the corner for 15m (common with INTERSECTION); aid through the roof/ corner crack. Ascend the corner crack above for 3m until level with a block on the left. Ascend the face above diagonally left wards (thin) to a hand-traverse crack. Rail left 3m to the arete, climb up and then diagonally left up shallow grooves to the top. Good rope management required. Belay next to small tree and block.
Note : The top pitch will probably go free, now that the crack is clean.
First Ascent: Erwin Muller, Russ Dodding, Mark Seuring, Herbert Seuring Jul 1989
 
SATANIC TRAVERSES 19 (G1) ** [N]
Starts in the Hellspruit Kloof, on the true left hand side. Walk up the kloof until the path is blocked by a pool. A diagonal, left trending corner is located on the far side of the pool; get to the base of this.
1. 19 (G1) 42m Climb up the corner for 10m, then go diagonally left ward up to a suitable stance.
2. 19 (G1) 45m Move up and left, then right and straight up to a ledge. Climb dubious rock above diagonally left to a small stance.
3. 19 (G1) 45m Climb up 4m from the stance, then swing right across the lip of the overhang; then traverse right and up to easy ground. Scramble off right wards to abseil points.
First Ascent: Stewart Middlemiss & Grant Cockburn Aug 1990
 
STRETCHING FOR HEAVEN 19 (G1) [N]
Start at the base of the prominent recess about 50m left of INTERSECTION. The recess bulges to the right about 30m up.
1. 18 (F3) 20m Climb the crack just left of the main corner for 20m and step left on to a narrow ledge. Traverse 4m left to a small stance on the face.
2. 18 (F2) 25m Step up and move back diagonally right, past the crack, into the main corner. Move up strenuously on to a ledge on the right, below the bulging crack. Climb this to a large ledge with a tree belay.
3. 15 (F2) 50m From the highest point on the ledge climb up for about 8m and then continue diagonally right wards, passing about 4m below the large bushy tree, to a ledge. INTERSECTION traverses across from the right along this ledge. Continue diagonally right wards across a steep face and continue, via a small pinnacle, on to the large ledge about 20m below the base of the prominent left-facing open book. Belay in the corner on the right.
4. 19 (G1) 40m Climb up the face just left of the stance for about 12m, traverse left for 4m and move up, past a loose-looking block, into the base of the open book. Climb this, past a section requiring a very wide straddle (hence the name of the climb), to a large stance on the right. A magnificent pitch.
5. 19 (G1) 40m Climb the crack on the right for 3m and then swing back on a sharp hand-rail into the main recess. Climb to the top of the recess and continue up, past a small overhang, to the base of a shallow recess on the left. (This about 4m left of a prominent overhanging crack.) Climb the recess, which steepens at the top, to the overhanging crack. Climb through the overhang to a stance on the right.
6. 15 (F2) 40m Climb up and diagonally left into the broad recess above. Climb this, via some steep moves at the top, and step out left. Continue more easily to top.
First Ascent: Erwin Muller, Paul Fatti & Russ Dodding May 1989
 
GLASNOST 19 (G1) [N]
Start 10m right of STRETCHING FOR HEAVEN, in the next obvious corner.
1. 19 (G1) 20m Ascend the corner for 6m, make a delicate traverse to the left for 2m and then ascend directly to a long narrow ledge, over easier ground.
2. 17 (F3) 30m At the right hand end of the ledge is a crack. Follow this for 10m until it is possible to transfer into the easier groove/corner on the right. Ascend this for 5m and then climb straight up to a spacious ledge (generally straight forward climbing).
3. 15 (F2) 40m Climb the corner at the right-hand end of the stance. Continue straight up over ledges (generally grade 11 climbing), trending left at the top, to belay at the bottom of a large open book. (The main groove pitch on STRETCHING FOR HEAVEN is 20m to the right of this book.)
4. 19 (G1) 30m Ascend the open book to the level of a pinky-white streak, traverse 3m right into the next groove. Belay.
5. 15 (F2) 20m Traverse to the right, at the level of the obvious horizontal crack, to a roomy stance.
6. 17 (F3) 30m Climb straight up for 4m, through the bulge (this section common with STRETCHING FOR HEAVEN), and then climb diagonally left below the large roof. Climb up past the left-hand end of this, and then continue diagonally left to stance at an abandoned (hopefully!) eagle's nest, below a huge roof.
7. 19 (G1) 28m Climb up 3m, past the right-hand end of the huge roof, traverse into the corner on the right and ascend this, with difficulty, taking the crack line above and finish left over easier ground.
First Ascent: Russ Dodding & Erwin Muller May 1989
 
INTERSECTION 16 (F2) [N]
The route starts at the second definite chimney to the left of INTERNATIONAL and is beaconed. The foot of the chimney may be reached by ascending about 6m to its right and then traversing back to the left.
1. 11 (E3) 30m Ascend the chimney for 20m and then move out on to the face on the left past large boulders. Ascend a short, delicate face and then move back diagonally to the right to a good stance. There is a tree belay.
2. 13 (F1) 33m Continue climbing directly above the stance for 6m then traverse to the left using a large flake. Move down 1m at the end of the traverse and continue traversing to a large cubby-hole stance. There is a block belay.
3. 13 (F1) 28m Traverse to the left for 12m and then climb diagonally up to the left into a large recess. Ascend this recess to another cubby-hole stance. A block belay will be found.
4. 9 (E1) 30m Climb diagonally up to the left to a fair stance on a block.
5. 13 (F1) 25m Move up diagonally to the left to a loose-looking but secure pillar. Climb over this and around the corner into an open book recess. Ascend the recess to a small stance under an overhang.
6. 16 (F2) 20m From the stance move to the left to the end of the ledge and continue around the corner, then on sloping footholds traverse a further 3m. Climb up diagonally to the left to a piton point. At this level a foot traverse and a little rail for the hands will be found. Move across this delicately into a small recess and second piton. Continue slightly further to the left and climb up vertically for 4m. Then move slightly to the right to gain a small two-man stance where a piton belay is necessary.
7. 16 (F2) 20m Directly above the stance there is a corner topped by a ceiling. Climb up this corner until an indefinite handrail running to the right is reached. Using the handrail move to the right around the corner to a ledge with loose blocks. From the ledge climb up diagonally to the left for 12m to gain the top of the route. A tree belay point may be used.
First Ascent: Mat Makowski, Hans Graafland, Ron Kinsley & John Anderson Jnr - Aug 1963
 
INTERVENTION 18 (F3) [N]
The route starts at the foot of a sheer 30m crack about halfway between the starts of INTERSECTION and INTERNATIONAL. Scramble diagonally upwards from the right to a bushy tree at the bottom of the crack.
1. 16 (F2) 28m Climb diagonally up to the left over a steep face to the left of the crack. Climb a slight overhang at the top of the left-hand corner of the face, and then move diagonally up to the right to a tree belay at the top of the 28m.
2. 16 (F2) 30m Climb up and then move slightly to the left on a steep face for 14m. Continue diagonally up to the right on to a clean face forming the back wall of a shallow recess, and then climb to a tree belay on a large ledge. Scramble diagonally up to the left for 8m to chock stone belay points.
3. 18 (F3) 30m The first move consists of lay backing and straddling up a slab; the second a lay-back with an awkward start and finish; and the third, some wide straddle movements up towards the left; the fourth consists of a mantle shelf. Continue up to a good stance.
4. 13 (F1) 26m Climb up and then move slightly to the right to a ledge with block belays. Climb diagonally up to the left, and continue up a corner. Proceed up to a good stance.
5. 7 ( D) 8m Climb up a scrappy recess to a large grassy ledge.
6. 10 (E) 24m Climb diagonally up to the left over a very pleasant face to the left of the chimney.
First Ascent: Hans Graafland & John Anderson Sep 1965
 
INTERNATIONAL 16 (F2) [N]
Start at the beacon at a green bush 23m to the right of a 30m vertical crack that terminates at a tree.
1. 11 (E3) 28m Climb more or less vertically up past a small bush to gain a stance below a small triangular overhang.
2. 13 (F1) 28m Traverse to the left and then climb diagonally up to the left using a tricky layback move to reach a small stance with a block belay point.
3. 13 (F1) 25m Climb to the left on to a pillar and execute a tricky move up the face using layback handholds. From here, climb more or less vertically up to a large stance on a block.
4. 10 (E) 25m Climb up to beneath a tree. Continue diagonally to the right to a good stance on a block.
5. 16 (F2) 30m Climb up the face for 4m then climb diagonally up to the left, move round a corner, and continue up past a very small overhang into an "open book". Move to the left across the face on small handholds. Continue up diagonally to the right to gain a good stance with a tree.
6. 11 (E3) 18m Climb up and through a crack directly above the stance. There is a tree belay point in the large recess.
7. 7 (D) 22m Continue up a bushy recess to a large stance at the foot of a chimney.
8. 9 (E1) 30m Climb the crack for 15m then continue up to a tree belay point. Scramble diagonally to the right to a beacon.
First Ascent: Hans Graafland, Mat Makowski, Lutz Klingmann, John Anderson Jnr - Jul 1963
 
WINTER WATER 18,A1 (F3,M1) [N]
Start at about the same distance to the right of INTERNATIONAL as this route is to INTERSECTION.
1. 11 (E3) 30m Ascend 15m to the first of two large out jutting blocks. Climb round the block either to the right or to the left, then climb diagonally up to the right to a fair stance to the left of the second block.
2. 9 (E1) 30m Traverse some 15m to the left and climb diagonally up to the left to some excellent block belays on a prominent ledge.
3. 14 (F1) 33m Move diagonally up to the right for 7m to the foot of a steep, slightly left-slanting ramp. Ascend the ramp for 21m and then move to the left before continuing up to an excellent, small stance. Block belays. This pitch is remarkably sustained.
4. 11 (E3) 14m Traverse to the left at the level of the stance for 8m. Then using excellent layback holds, ascend the nose. Move out to the left and climb up to a fair stance on a block.
5. 13 (F1) 24m Starting just to the right of the stance, climb 9m up the buttress to below an overhang. Traverse to the left under the overhang for 6m. Move diagonally upwards to the left to an excellent little stance.
6. 18,A1 (F3,M1) 24m Climb diagonally to the right to the right-hand end of a long overhang and end up by standing on top of a small pinnacle. Using karabiners on slings attached to three fixed pitons as handholds, move up and to the left on to the first of two exposed noses forming the right hand end of the overhang. The move to the left on to the second nose is the crux. Continue upwards and then slightly to the right to a small, though very adequate, stance. Eye belay.
Alternatively : 16 (F2) 26m Move up 2m and then traverse to the right at that level for 11m to the right-hand side of the shallow recess. Climb this recess for 14m to the small stance mentioned above.
7. 11 (E3) 35m Hand-traverse 6m to the left. Continue traversing for some 14m, and then climb diagonally up to the left to a tree belay. Scramble diagonally up to the right to the beacon marking the top of INTERNATIONAL.
First Ascent: John Anderson & Dave Cretchley Sep 1964
 
ORANGE AID 19 (G1) [N]
Start 15m to the left of the prominent buttress at the start of ROLL OVER and 3m to the right of the start of WINTER WATER.
1. 13 (F1) 40m Climb up just to the left of a shallow scoop for 15m to the level of a small band of overhangs and then traverse to the right and climb up onto a good ledge. Continue diagonally up to the right for 20m to a shady stance next to a 5m high buttress.
2. 13 (F1) 37m Climb the recess formed by the left-hand corner of the buttress and continue up for 6m before traversing diagonally up to the left, via some delicate moves, to a stance with nut & peg belays below and to he right of a shallow black recess.
3. 13 (F1) 37m Climb up from the left-hand edge of the stance for about 5m and then step to the left under a small overhang and continue up into the base of the black recess. Climb the recess for 3m, step to the left onto a flake and continue up to a small stance at some blocks. (Peg and nut belays.)
4. 19 (G1) 37m Climb up for 5m above the stance to where the rock steepens and then swing to the left onto a ledge. Traverse to the left into a corner which is climbed with difficulty for 3m before traversing back to the right to a sloping ledge almost directly above the stance. Make a difficult move up the open book above and then traverse to the right into the base of a recess which is climbed for 15m to a small stance with peg belays below a huge overhang.
5. 16 (F2) 25m Traverse 6m to the left under the overhang and then climb straight up past the left of it to a jamming crack which leads to a good stance.
6. 13 (F1) 45m Climb up and slightly to the left to two big flakes underneath an overhang. Climb the flakes and continue up through the overhang via a small recess to a tree and ledge. Continue up, bearing slightly left, over easier rock to the top.
First Ascent: Paul Fatti & John Anderson Jul 1971
 
ROLL OVER 16,A1 (F2,M1) [N]
This route starts at the centre of the very obvious buttress some 90m to the left of a similar, though larger, buttress at the foot of BRAZIER. There is a type of cave between the buttress and the left-hand face.
1. 13 (F1) 30m Climb up the crack for 7m and then traverse to the right for 6m to a slight recess forming the right-hand edge of the buttress. Ascend 7m to an open book recess and then continue up the open book recess to a large stance with blocks.
2. 11 (E3) 30m Move to the left for 4m along a rock ledge, climb 6m up a steep face, and then continue diagonally up to the right to a grass ledge. Move to he left along the ledge and proceed diagonally to the left up an easy ramp behind a small pinnacle. Climb diagonally to the left up an easy ramp behind a small pinnacle. Climb diagonally to the right up a slight recess to a large grass ledge. Scramble for 35m at grade 6 diagonally up to the right to a block belay.
3. 11 (E3) 16m Climb 3m to a block and then traverse to the right to the skyline. Continue up a slight recess to a small overhang, and then traverse to the right using an excellent handrail to reach a stance in the chimney behind a very large block.
4. 11 (E3) 24m Traverse to the right to the skyline and then move down slightly to a grass ledge. Climb diagonally up to the right over a steep section for 4m, and then continue straight up to a tree on a grass ledge.
5. 11 (E3) 30m Climb diagonally to the left up a rock ramp and then continue around the skyline. Climb up an open book recess and then proceed over easy rock to a tree & block belay on a grass ledge.
6. 16,A1 (F2,M1) 30m Climb up 6m keeping to the left of an open book recess. From the sloping ledge use a karabiner on a piton to move to the right and up to a small ledge in an open book recess. (If the grass is cleared from the crack in the open book, the use of the piton can probably be dispensed with. We had no time). Traverse to the right to the skyline corner of the buttress and then continue climbing up the buttress. Finally, easier rock leads to a piton stance on a rock ledge.
7. 7 (D) 30m Climb diagonally up to the left to the top.
First Ascent: John Anderson & Norah Galvin Apr 1966
 
MEHITABEL 18 (F3) [N]
This route starts 30m to the left of the start of BRAZIER on a brownish face 18m high and bounded on both sides by slight ridges.
1. 18 (F3) 30m Climb diagonally up to the left (from just to the right of the right-hand ridge) and onto a ridge 8m up. Continue up to the left on to a brown face. A few awkward moves lead to sloping holds near the top of the brown face. Traverse to the left for 9m and continue round the left-hand ridge. Ascend a crack to a stance. Good blocks.
2. 7 (D) 30m Climb diagonally to the left up to an extensive grass ledge. Scramble up to the right to a square block 9m before the skyline.
3. 11 (E3) 15m This pitch is common with the pitch #3 of ROLL OVER.
4. 11 (E) 9m Climb to the left, either inside the chimney or on the outside of the block, to a small two-man stance on top of the very large block. Eye belay.
5. 13 (F1) 28m Climb diagonally to the left up the ramp for 15m. Continue up to the left to the corner. Move around the corner and then climb up 3m to reach a small cubbyhole. Traverse to the left for 2m and then proceed up to a good block stance.
6. 13 (F1) 28m Continue diagonally up to the left over broken rock to a grass ledge.
7. 18 (F3) 15m Move up to the foot of an overhanging chimney. Climb the chimney using wide straddles and fist jams to a good stance.
8. 11 (E) 28m Climb diagonally up to the left for 14m and then continue up to the right for 14m to the top.
First Ascent: Paul Fatti, John Anderson & Dave Cretchley May 1966
 
BRAZIER 11 (E3) [N]
Start at the cave on the left of the buttress on the corner where the cliff changes from the north face to the north-west face.
1. 9 (E1) 30m Climb diagonally up to the left, at an angle of about 45 degrees, to a good ledge. Piton belay.
2. 11 (E3) 28m Climb up 3m then traverse to the left around a flake. Continue around the next corner and climb 3m up the recess. Traverse to the right back past the belay to 4m recess with small bush at the top. Ascend the recess, and continue up another 6m to reach a stance with a block.
3. 7 (D) 27m Scramble diagonally to the right for 25m to a pinnacle. Climb up 2m to a tree on a smallish ledge.
4. 11 (E3) 30m Traverse 1m at the level of the base of the tree. Climb up 9m and pass the left-hand side of an overhang to a block belay. Turn the corner to the right and continue up the open book recess to a good stance. Block belay.
5. 9 (E1) 33m Climb more or less vertically up to a large stance on a block.
6. 9 (E1) 35m Traverse to the right for 30m and then climb up to a tree on a large stance.
7. 11 (E3) 30m Climb diagonally up to the left to a large belay-point on the nose. Scramble at grade 6 diagonally up to the right for 35m to the top.
First Ascent: Paul Fatti, John Anderson Jnr, Sonja Hyne, Nicolette Thomas & Lynel van Anselen - 1963
 
WHAB 18 (F3) [N]
When one slogs down from the parking place a little buttress can be seen at the bottom of the main face where the top of the rock face is at its highest. The route goes up this buttress, following a more or less straight line to the top.
Bundubash up along the bottom of the North Face until the highest point is reached. Scramble up a ramp diagonally to the left , to a tree below a right angled recess.
1. 18 (F3) 35m From a tree, climb a right-angled recess to a tree overhang. Traverse to the right past a boulder to a tree. Belay on a wedge in a crack above the tree.
2. 16 (F2) 35m Traverse back to the left over the recess and continue to the left until it is possible to move up to a higher ledge beneath a recessed crack with two trees.
3. 16 (F2) 36m Climb the crack to a tree for a belay. This pitch is steep and sustained.
4. 10 (E) 40m Climb up to a higher ledge on the right. Continue up a recess, moving out to the right. Scramble 5m to the right and climb a ridge to a good tree.
5. 11 (E3) 25m Step 2m to the right, then move diagonally to the left up the face.
First Ascent: D Archibald, J Wilson, E Budding & E Haber Jul 1975
 
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The West Face
To access the routes on the West face , up to and including INTERDICT follow the approach given for The North Face as far as the former campsite, cross the Helspruit and scramble up to the foot of the rock, where the going gets easier. For route numbers 32 to 37 inclusive, it is possible and desirable to take a more direct approach. Having crossed the Olifants River, walk directly and steeply towards Spring Gully (the large gully which splits the West face towards its left-hand end, seen from below). This will involve crossing a fence, crossing a steep-sided gully and then ascending on to a broad ridge. From here pick your way to the foot of your route. Note: All routes are listed in order as they occur when approaching from the Helspruit, and as they appear when facing the crag from below:
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HIGH HEAVEN 18 (F3) [N]
The route is situated on the south west buttress immediately above the exit of the Hellspruit from the gorge in the escarpment. It follows the steep and obvious corner up the big buttress above the gorge exit.
Scramble up 60m from the Hellspruit and start just to the right of the line of the main corner and below the left hand to two grooves which lead up to the main corner.
1. 7 (D) 18m Easy climbing leads to a small stance below the left hand groove.
2. 13 (F1) 18m Climb 12m up the corner in the groove, then move diagonally to the right to a small stance.
3. 18 (F3) 15m Continue up the overhang, the last 3m are the crux. Step to the right to a good spike on the arete and pull up into the continuation groove above. Move to the right to a good stance.
4. 16 (F2) 9m Traverse to the left back into the groove and climb this to a good ledge.
5. 7(D) 18m Ascend over easy ledges to the foot of the main corner.
6. 13 (F1) 6m Climb a short slab just to the right of the corner to a wide ledge below a chimney.
7. 16 (F2) 25m Climb the wall to the right of the chimney for 4m then traverse back into the chimney. Continue up this and then move to the left (awkward) to a sloping ledge.
8. 16 (F2) 12m Continue up the crack above a niche with loose blocks at 6m. Climb a layback crack past a tree on the right to a stance on semi-detached blocks.
9. 18 (F3) 36m Climb the steep continuation groove by lay backing until it is possible to step to the left to ledges. Continue straight up then up a short chimney to a sloping ledge on the left. Traverse to the left below a steep crack (difficult) then move up grooves to the top.
First Ascent: John Anderson & Paul Fatti 1969
 
SVIVANE 18 (F3) [N]
The climb is easily located by the very prominent open book near the kloof of the West Face. Start very near the top left-hand end of the West Face. Start very near the top left-hand end of a large grassy platform about 60m above The Hellspruit.
1. 13 (F1) 28m Climb diagonally to the right up a short face and continue up a steep shallow recess to a sloping ledge. Traverse 3m to the left to a small stance with a peg belay on a large, steeply sloping ledge.
2. 16 (F2) 30m Move back to the shallow recess and continue diagonally to the right up the exposed face to a stance with a peg belay on a block in a small recess.
3. 10 (E2) 28m Climb diagonally up to the right to a tree on a large ledge and continue diagonally to the left up the broken, easy buttress, to a good ledge.
4. 13 (F1) 15m Move diagonally to the right up a black face followed by a neat face.
5. 16 (F2) 28m Start up an open book via a tricky layback and jamming moves and continue to a sloping ledge and peg belays on the left.
6. 18 (F3) 13m Climb up through a narrow overhanging crack section and continue out to the right and up to a ledge just beyond a tree.
7. 11 (E3) 25m Move diagonally up to the right across a face and then traverse to the right to some blocks on a large ledge.
8. 8 (E1) 18m Climb diagonally up to the right to the top.
First Ascent: John Anderson & Paul Fatti Jul 1967
 
PINK PANTHER 19 (G1) [N]
The route follows a very prominent pink & white crack between Interdict & Svivane about 250m from Hellspruit.
1. 18 (F3) 30m Start in corner and climb awkward off-width crack. Follow crack system to chock belay where loose rock starts.
2. 18 (F3) 35m Climb diagonally right for 3m onto face and traverse back into crack system. continue up smooth crack and mantle shelf to narrow ledge. Traverse diagonally right into bottomless groove. Continue up groove and step left into corner and good chock belay.
3. 19 (G1) 20m Climb thin face to small overhang (4m). Layback move into open book and continue up to stance.
4. 16 (F2) 35m Continue up crack to overhang. Climb left face to ledge. Continue up prominent crack in centre of face to tree belay.
5. 11 (E3) 25m Climb face to overhanging rock (2m right of smooth open book). Traverse right around corner and immediately straight up to ledge.
6. 10 (E) 35m Climb open book and follow easy rock to top.
First Ascent: D Cheesemond, R Druschke & E Druschke Jul 1979
 
INTERDICT 13 (F1) [N]
The climb runs up the left arm of the Vee midway between DADS DAY OFF and the kloof.
1. 9 (E1) 20m Climb a broken face 10m to a small tree. Veer to the right and head to a bigger tree 10m higher.
2. 10 (E2) 60m Move up 10m from the tree then to the left on to a rib and up for 13m to a ledge. Traverse 7m to the right then climb 5m up a book and through a narrow gap to a stance.
3. 13 (F1) 48m Ascend a corner to the left of a crack for 13m to a tree. Continue up 7m to a ledge then move 3m to the left. Move 5m to the top of a large block and euphorbia, then 5m up an open book. Traverse 17m to the left across a smooth face to a tree.
4. 13 (F1) 43m Climb a tricky rib for 17m, move 3m to the left and up on to a large block. Traverse 7m to the right move up 10m and diagonally to the right to a stance.
5. 11 (E3) 27m Move down 2m, step across 1m to the right then climb up to a ceiling. Traverse 4m to the right using an undercut layback, step across to a nose and climb to a ledge..
6. 7 (D) 50m Scramble to the summit.
First Ascent: Merv Prior & R Green Jul 1968
 
SEVEN-YEAR-ITCH 16 (F2) [N]
Start at some blocks about 50m to the right of DAD'S DAY OFF on the West Face, about 80m below and slightly to the left of a very prominent open book leaning slightly back to the right, with a large white patch of bird guano on its left-hand wall.
1. 11 (E3) 30m Climb the face to a stance on a grassy ledge at the base of a small recess.
2. 11 (E3) 39m Climb the recess and continue diagonally up to the left and then back to the right into a crack which is climbed to a large ledge below the prominent open book.
3. 16 (F2) 25m Climb 2m up a recess capped by an overhang, swing to the left into an awkward chimney and climb this to a stance in the base of the open book.
4. 16 (F2) 30m Superb climbing up the open book leads to a ledge and stance on the right.
5. 10 (E2) 35m Traverse to the right along the ledge to the base of a recess and climb up this, avoiding some bush by moving out to the right, to reach the top.
First Ascent: Peter Lowe & Paul Fatti Jul 1972 (Pitches 1 & 2 by Peter Lowe & Rodger Reid in 1965)
 
BREAKING OUT OF HELL 21,A0 (G3,M0) [N]
Start 50 to 60m to the right of the main descent gully on the West Face and about 10m to the left of a dark small gully, at a boulder 0.5m away from the rock face.
1. 16 (F2) 52m Climb grassy face moving up into slight recess to tree for a good belay stance.
2. 16 (F2) 15m Climb up recess for about 8m stepping left onto ledge out of the recess. Climb up large blocks to a ledge under roof.
3. 21,A0 (G3,M0) 20m Climb up to roof and delicately move right along under roof. At the corner of the roof move up and around into flaring crack, 2 aid moves. Follow crack diagonally up right to obvious stance under a roof where crack intersects with the vertical crack.
4. 21 (G3) 25m Continue up diagonal crack until it opens up, keep left, move up vertical open book for 3m to stance below big roofs to the left of white stains on rock.
5. 16 (F2) 50m Traverse 8m left past small sturdy tree and then up over easier ground to top.
First Ascent: Alard Hufner & Dermot Brogan Jun 1997
 
TO HELL WITH SKIN 19 (G1) **** [N]
The climb is situated about 50m to the right of the descent gully on the West Face, between DADS DAY OFF and SEVEN YEAR ITCH. The start is at a tree in a right-facing corner at the end of an ascending ramp 15m above the level of the base of the cliff.
1. 19 (G1) 40m Climb the corner and continue up the face above to the base of a prominent steep right facing corner curving slightly to the right. Climb and layback strenuously up the corner to a stance on a series of small ledges on the right hand face.
2.15 (F2) 45m Climb up on the right on small holds for a short distance to the overhang and traverse right around the corner. Climb straight up to a large sloping ledge at the base of the very prominent corner crack.
3. 19 (G1) 30m Climb strenuously up the prominent crack just below a ledge with a tree. Move left on to the corner and climb to the large ledge.
4. 13 (F1) 30m Climb straight up above the stance to the top.
First Ascent: Paul Fatti, Ulrike Kiefer, Mark Seuring & Anton Fatti May 1992
 
DADS DAY OFF 14 (F1) [N]
This route lies on the ridge to the right of Spring Gulley which cuts the West Face. Scramble horizontally out to the right for 30m from the point where the gully opens out on to the scree. Scramble up for 14m to a beacon at the foot of a steep face.
1. 10 (E) 30m A slightly awkward move up to the left leads out on to the face. Climb vertically up to a good tree belay at the foot of a recess.
2. 14 (F1) 28m Ascend the recess to an overhang. Straddle up and then move out to the left on to a large ledge with blocks. (From this point it is possible to scramble to the left into the gully.)
3. 10 (E) 33m Climb up the buttress directly above the blocks. There are three alternatives from which to choose to reach the top half of the buttress.
(a) Veer off to the right & via a mantle shelf proceed to top.
(b) Veer off to the left up an open book recess until it becomes very steep. Hand traverse out to the right and then continue upwards.
(c) Instead of hand traversing, continue straight up the open book recess (14).
4. 7 (D) 33m Climb diagonally up to the right for 14m and then continue diagonally upwards to the left for 18m to a large stance.
5. 10 (E) 25m Ascend the slight recess on the left-hang wall of the buttress. Move to the right using a finger rail under a block, and then continue up along the ridge to a good stance. Scramble along the very clearly-defined ridge to the top.
First Ascent: Merv Prior, Godfrey Barclay, Oliver Barker & Nigel Grylls Jul 1965
 
COOLTH 18 (F3) [N]
Start at the base of the steep buttress forming the left-hand side of SPRING GULLEY. Scramble at grade 11 up the left-hand side of this buttress to the base of the very square diedre cutting the lower half of the cliff.
1. 13 (F1) 20m Climb into the corner and up the crack past a bush to a stance below a large block in the recess.
2. 18 (F3) 15m Passing the block on the right, climb up to a large stance in the corner.
3. 18 (F3) 20m The roof above is uninviting, therefore traverse to the right on a finger-rail foothold on the exposed corner. Step delicately down and continue a descending traverse to the right to a stance after a further 10m
4. 16 (F2) 20m Climb diagonally up to the left and then straight up the steep face to the large stance below a roof.
5. 16 (F2) 40m Traverse 15m to the right to a small roof with horizontal flakes on its left. Handswing to the left on the flakes to reach easier grooves leading onto a sloping face. Continue up to a ledge.
6. 10 (E2) 40m Follow an easy recess to the right and traverse back to the left under the overhangs. Break through steep blocks at the left-hand end of the overhangs and climb easy blocks to the top.
First Ascent: Tony Dick & Greg Moseley Aug 1972
 
INTERLUDE 13 (F1) [N]
Start about 200m left (uphill) of SPRING GULLEY on the West Face.
The route goes up a prominent buttress, the lower third of which consists of a smooth face split by a deep chimney.
Climb the chimney and continue more easily up the buttress to the top for about 3 or 4 pitches.
First Ascent: LP Fatti & G Langmore Jul 1975
 
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Helspruit Kloof
The only existing route in the Helspruit Kloof proper (Satanic Traverses) is accessed by following the access route described under (A), above, and then continuing further ,into the kloof. The kloof is deep and narrow and affords good shade (and hence is cool).
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SATANIC VERSES 19 (G1) [N]
Start at the base of a short crack 10m left, and around the corner from STRETCHING FOR HEAVEN.
1. 18 (F3) 45m Climb awkwardly up for 5m to the top of the crack, step right and continue up for a further 10m before moving right and up again to where the angle eases. Climb to the base of a smooth recess. Don't climb this, but traverse 5m left to the base of another recess; follow this until the angle eases. Step delicately right onto the arete and climb up (lack of protection) to where the angle eases again. Continue up diagonally left to belay below an open book (this stance shared with SCENE OF THE CRIME).
2. 18 (F3) 45m Climb steeply up the corner to where it is possible to swing right and up to where the angle eases. Climb easily diagonally up right wards to the base of the prominent recess. Climb this to a small stance on the left, about halfway up.
3. 19 (G1) 35m Continue to the top of the recess and climb diagonally left wards up the ramp to the base of the first vertical break through the steep rock above. Climb this for about 5m to a small overhang, step right with difficulty and then back left above the overhang. Climb diagonally up left to a comfortable stance in a corner.
4. 17 (F3) 45m Step left and climb up and right to the large ledge. From the right-hand end of the ledge make a long hand-traverse right to where it is possible to crawl onto a sloping ledge. Step right and climb up on the right-hand side of the pillar to its top. Climb diagonally right and up to a small stance next to a piton.
5. 15 (F2) 45m Step left an climb straight up to the top.
First Ascent: Erwin Muller & Paul Fatti Jul 1989
 
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Barbel Pool Crag
This crag is the closest to the campsite. It comprises 1 pitch routes and hence is useful if one has insufficient time/inclination to climb on the main face. From the campsite, walk downstream and towards the river, along a well-defined path which is marked with white-painted cairns. This brings you to the top of the Barbel Pool Crag. Access to the routes is then via either a gully to the north, or via abseil.
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GRAMMY! WE WANT TO GO FISHING 14 (F1) L ** [N]
When walking downstream from the campsite towards Loskopdam one moves down a descent gully to emerge at the drainage point of the second large pool. The route takes an open book capped by a roof at the top - Cairn.
1. 14 (F1/F2) 26m Climb the open book to the roof. Move to the right, with difficulty to clear the roof and pull up the easier rock to the comfortable belay stance on top.
Notes : Protection is good.
First Ascent: M Byrd & Tim Willmot Jun 1995
 
GRAMMY! WE INSIST 13 (F1) L ** [N]
Takes the open book immediately downstream of GRAMMY! WE WANT TO GO FISHING! The route sports a small roof halfway up - cairn.
1. 13 (F1) 26m Climb the open book. Straddle past the roof and move up the easier rock and face above to take comfortable belay at the tree on top.
Notes : Good protection. Poor fishing.
First Ascent: Tim Willmot, M Byrd & Ulrike Kiefer Jun 1995
 
A NEW DAWN 18 (F3) *** [N]
This route is located on the crag which overlooks the Barbel Pool, on the eastern bank of the river (ie. the same side as the campsite). From the campsite, walk to the top of the crag, and then get to the base of the rock by scrambling down on the left (facing the river). Follow the foot of the crag towards the Barbel Pool, until it is not possible to walk any further. The route takes the wall which forms the right side of the last arete you have just walked past. There is a large hamerkop nest in a tree directly beside the arete; start 4m right of the tree, ie. 3m left of the open book.
1. 18 (F3) 28m Starting below and left of a large block/flake on the wall, gain the top of the block. Attain the good rail at the next level by some trickery. Place good runners here and traverse 3m left to below the steep wall. Climb the wall on good holds, trending diagonally left wards under the roof to the arete (this section is not protected). Climb the easy open-book in the arete to the top.
Note : A satisfying route.
First Ascent: Russ Dodding, H Murch & K Phillips Jun 1998
 
ANOTHER DAY IN PARADISE 18 (F3) [N]
Start 5 m right of A NEW DAWN and climb the obvious open book/crack system. Pull into the roof and exit gynmnastically to the right onto a large ledge with aloes.
First Ascent: Jun 2002, Stephen Mallory, Tanya Geldenhuys
 
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