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There are many kloofs (gorges) in this range of mountains each having about 50-150 climbs. Most of these are natural multi-pitch climbs with a few sport routes in one or two of the kloofs. There is a moratorium on bolting in most of the kloofs - please repect this. The mostly quartsite rock provides for excellent climbing with mostly good protection. These kloofs are upto an hours drive apart so directions are given per kloof where possible. Access to the MCSA owned kloofs must be obtained from the MCSA directly, together with permits for a nominal charge. See the MCSA Access page. Please support them to help keep these areas open as well as to conserve them. This page serves as a summary of all areas within the Magaliesberg, click on the Kloof Name to see all the routes. There are printed guides available from the MCSA Johannesburg section as well as a selected Classics guide from Fran Hunziker
BOULDER KLOOF Access This kloof is owned by the MCSA and permits should be obtained - see the main page for details. It is part of the Tonquani Complex. Contact the MCSA for access details. Routes/ Gradings There are about 60 traditional climbs here, mostly single pitch routes but generally of very high quality. The grades vary from 8 to 27 and many routes in the early twenties can be found here including many good classics. Aspect Sometimes water can be found in the kloof but usually one needs to get close to the intersection with Tonquani. Climbing is good all year round. CEDARBERG Access This kloof is owned by the MCSA and permits should be obtained - see the main page for details. Contact the MCSA for access details. Routes/ Gradings Over 100 natural climbs exist here, mostly multi-pitch natural lines. Routes of close to 100m high can be found at the junction of the kloof with Tonquani. The grades vary from 5 to 30 with the bulk of the routes in the 17-20 range. Aspect A good stream flows down the whole kloof which is quite long, like all other kloofs it is mostly shaded by forests. Climbing is good all year round. Heavy rains can make the kloof dangerous. Back to Top * Back to Home Page Access Access is via the Bergheim Resort which offers good camping facilities etc. Get onto the R28 highway from Johannesburg or Pretoria and travel west towards Krugersdorp. When the highway gets to a 4-way stop at a Zenex garage turn right towards Tarlton. Follow the road to a T-junction at another Zenex Garage and Oak Tree shop where you turn right. Follow this road until you see a sign to "Bekker Skole", turn left (if you get to a T-junction before this turn you missed it by a few km. Pass "Bekker Skole" and turn right at the next T-junction. Follow this road towards Rustenburg until it curves and goes around a dam. A few kilometres further you take a right turn (The first right after the dam). Follow this road and after passing "The Wigwam" resort on your right look carefully for the "Bergheim" sign, also on your right. If you get to a tar road turning left you have gone a bit too far. This resort offers good camping facilities and there are a few chalets.There is secure parking for day visitors and a short flat path to the sport crags. The natural climbs requires a steep, hot walk or a tricky and damp ascent through the kloof. To access the kloof goto the bottom right corner of the campsite, climb over the fence and follow the path, always keep right until you get into the kloof. Routes/ Gradings There are about 82 climbs here with grades varying from 8 to 32. There are several classic sport routes which are relatively hard and steep, but good quality as well as many multi-pitch natural climbs of moderate grade. Aspect The kloof is shaded and cool all year round with plenty of running water. You can climb all year round just avoiding the occasional thunderstorm in summer. In the sport crags wasps like to gather in the cracks in winter, but if not provoked never seem to sting. GROOTKLOOF Access This kloof is owned by the MCSA and permits should be obtained - see the main page for details. Contact the MCSA for access details. Routes/ Gradings There are 129 traditional climbs here, mostly single pitch routes but generally of very high quality. A few routes are bolted or have some bolts but many of them are very badly rusted. The grades vary from 5 to 28 with some really good classics at most grades. Aspect Water is always available in the river. It is usually quite shaded and cool in the kloof. LOWER TONQUANI KLOOF Access This is also an MCSA owned kloof and is the continuation of Upper Tonquani going downstream. Permits should be obtained - see the main page for details. It is part of the Tonquani Complex. Contact the MCSA for more access details. Routes/ Gradings This is a long section of the kloof with 132 natural routes. The climbs are mostly multi-pitch natural lines. These routes see grades from 7 to 26. Some 90m and higher climbs can be found in the area where Cedarberg intersects Tonquani. Aspect There is plenty of water and moving up and down the kloof usually results in you getting wet. Climbing is good all year round. MHLABATINI Access This is also an MCSA owned kloof and permits should be obtained - see the main page for details. Contact the MCSA for more access details. The walk in is slightly strenuos and moving through the kloof can be challenging at times too. Allow enough time to get into and out of the kloof from the parking. There have been thefts from the standard parking spot, rather park at the farmers house. You MUST however contact the MCSA for the latest arrangements. Routes/ Gradings A truly beautiful kloof famous for its many crack climbs. The 136 routes are mostly multi-pitch natural routes, grades vary from 5 to 27 with many at each grade above 15 until 25. Aspect With plenty of water and nice shade all day it is a very pleasant kloof all year round. TRIDENT KLOOF Access This kloof is owned by the MCSA and permits should be obtained - see the main page for details. It was once known as Cavern Kloof. Contact the MCSA for access details. The walk in is fairly level and easy. Routes/ Gradings There are about 110 traditional climbs here. The grades vary from itch routes but generally of very high quality. The grades vary from 6 to 23. Aspect A small stream usually flows all year, there are many large trees making for a nice shady kloof. Plenty of good climbing all year round. UPPER TONQUANI KLOOF Access This is also an MCSA owned kloof and permits should be obtained - see the main page for details. It is part of the Tonquani Complex. Contact the MCSA for more access details. Routes/ Gradings This is one of the most popular kloofs with almost 150 routes. They are mostly multi-pitch natural routes. These routes see grades from 5 to 25. Many classics can be found here such as Hawk's Eye, Stone Needle and so forth. Aspect There is plenty of water and some impressive pools all surrounded by forests. Climbing is good all year round. Please send us any corrections or new route/area information. Read our Disclaimer. news@saclimb.co.za |
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