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Guide for Whale Rock Boulders

Climb INDEX * Tsunami Boulder * The Shark Tank * Guppy Fish Boulder * The Whale Rock * Bikini Atoll Boulder * The Dolphin Boulder * Maxi Minnow Boulder * South Pacific * Pacific Ocean Boulder

From the Spearhead boulders head up and left towards the mountain for 50m until you hit a path. Follow this path leftward through the bottom of the Forest boulders. Once you get clear of the forest the path splits, take the path heading up with the forest to your right. The boulders are now visble up the hill and to the left, follow the path until it splits again, stay left, you are now at the Whale Rock Boulders. There are several very high and steep boulders here. The hiking trail passes through these rocks, one of which is signposted "Wale Rock". This area is seeing some development now.
Tsunami Boulder
Some 30m high and overhanging routes just waiting to be developed!
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The Shark Tank
The steep little boulder just in front of Whale Rock. It was previously known as the Sea Boulder. It sports a nice hard line on the north east side. One route at present and potential for many easy lines at the back (southern side) and some super hard ones on the front (northern side). GPS: -28,23.429,29,16.929
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1. PAUL'S PROJECT [B,A]
Starts about 2m left of SWORDFISH, will go at about 30-34.
First Ascent: Bolted bu Joffrey Hyman.
 
2. SWORDFISH 28 *** [6D,A]
This route takes the steepest line of the boulder on the north-west end. A nice combination of power and technique.
First Ascent: May 2000 Joffrey Hyman
 
3. SEAWEED V2/5 **
Standstart on the west end of the boulder just right of the arete. Start on broken rock for feet, straight up and top out, fairly high. Downclimb on FISH FOOD (the route!)
First Ascent: James Chapman
 
4. OCEAN BASKET 15 *** [5D,A]
Short but fun route up the south side of the boulder 3m right of the left arete, good rock.
First Ascent: James Chapman
 
5. SOMETHING FISHY 20 *** [5D,A]
Starts just right of OCEAN BASKET in the middle of the boulder.
First Ascent: James Chapman
 
6. FISH FOOD 14 *** [4B,A]
The access route on the Shark Tank Boulder.
First Ascent: Nov 1999 Solo by Joffrey Hyman, Bolted by Dylan Morgan Aug 2000.
 
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Guppy Fish Boulder
The boulder at the base of the Whale Rock boulder where the hiking path hits the boulder. Three problems on this boulder in amongst the trees.
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1. GUPPY FISH V0/3
Climb the slightly overhanging left side of the small boulder between Whale and Sharktank boulders next to the path. The rock at the bottom of this small wall is rather knarly.
First Ascent: Apr 2000 Marianne Pienaar
 
2. BELUGA V1/4
Standing start at the wildly overhanging face on the right side of the Guppy Fish boulder.
First Ascent: Apr 2000 Dylan Morgan
 
3. NO NAME ?
Sit start from a large layback up to climb BELUGA. The large layback may not be permanent, take care. The face to the right is off-route.
 
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The Whale Rock
Many lines waiting to be bolted here including some way steep stuff on the Whale's head section.
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Bikini Atoll Boulder
The huge boulder onto which the Whale Rock 'leans'. A stack of easy to moderate lines will go here.
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1. BAN THE BOMB 14 *** [12D,A]
From the Dolphin Boulder the route starts just behind a tree to the south. A nice long route of about 22m with some pleasant and varied climbing. Take care with a bit of loose rock still on the route.
First Ascent: Oct 2004 Dylan Morgan
 
2. GREAT SHARK HUNT 12 [7D,A]
Starts about 6m right of BAN THE BOMB, the route is about 10m long.
First Ascent: Oct 2004 Dylan Morgan
 
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The Dolphin Boulder
This is the boulder directly below the northern face of the large Bikini Atoll boulder.
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1. SKIFF 15 [4D,A]
Follow the bolts left of SQUID.
First Ascent: Jul 2000 Clara Hoyberg
 
2. SQUID 13 [4D,A]
Follow the large pockets up the right side of the face.
First Ascent: Jul 2000 Clara Hoyberg
 
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Maxi Minnow Boulder
It is a large slabby boulder west of the Bikini Atoll boulder and south of the Pacific Ocean boulder, four easy lines can be found here. GPS: -28,23.436,29,16.856
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1. KONRAD THE KILLER KIPPER 13 [8D,A]
On the NW face of the boulder (the main slabby face).Smear and balance up the face just left of the main water streak.
First Ascent: Aug 2000 Marianne Pienaar
 
2. BLOWHOLE 14 [4D,A]
Near the centre of the slab there is a large pocket, trivially up to this and then a tricky move through the bulge.
First Ascent: Early 2001 Dylan Morgan
 
3. MEDACINO 12 [8D,A]
Between BLOWHOLE & GILBERT THE GAY GUPPIE there is a slight ridge running up the face, climb this to the chains.
First Ascent: Early 2001 Dylan Morgan
 
4. GILBERT THE GAY GUPPIE 11 [7D,A]
Follow the gnarly arete on the right hand end of the main face.
First Ascent: Aug 2000 Marianne Pienaar
 
5. COWBOY ATTITUDES V1/4?
An easyish highball up the scooped-out face in the little alley. Consensus required.
First Ascent: 2002 Dylan Morgan
 
6. SURFING RSA V0/3?
Up the highest bit of the face above the poorly-trod "climber's path" from the Pacific Ocean boulder to the Bikini Atoll boulder. Consensus required.
First Ascent: 2002 Dylan Morgan
 
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South Pacific
The boulder parallel and to the south of the Pacific Ocean Boulder.
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1. MARIANUS V1/4
The easy line from a standing start to top out slightly left. Starts on small edges.
First Ascent: Apr 2000 Marianne Pienaar
 
2. NAZCA V2/5
Opposite CONTINENTAL MARGINS there are 2 recesses. From a standing start between them move right and to the top from some slopers.
First Ascent: Apr 2000 Dylan Morgan
 
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Pacific Ocean Boulder
This is the first boulder of the complex you get to when on the path from the Forest Boulders. At this point the path also splits and goes uphill to the Miracle Fountain. Six short but good lines here at present including a wayout trad crack climb.
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1. OPEN PROJECT 16+ [A]
Project just left of SHARK ON A LEASH. It takes the gnarly rock heading right to the same chains as SHARK ON A LEASH. No bolts yet.
 
2. SHARK ON A LEASH 17 *** [6B,A]
The line just right of the gnarled rock.
First Ascent: May 2000 Russ Dodding & Joffrey Hyman
 
3. OCTOPUSSY 20 ** [7B,A]
This is the line that starts just left of the trees on the right hand side of the north face of the boulder. An interesting start, take care on the second clip.
First Ascent: May 2000 Martin Bruning & Joffrey Hyman
 
4. TONGA 21 [N]
On the western side of the Pacific Ocean boulder there is a perfect hands-to-fists-to-body crack. One piece each from Camalot t#3 to #4. Climb the crack on the west side of the PO boulder - named after the Tonga Trench on the western side of the Pacific Ocean.
First Ascent: Apr 2000 Dylan Morgan
 
5. CONTINENTAL MARGINS 23 *** [6B,A]
On the South-Western face of the Pacific Ocean boulder there is a short left-leaning seam leading to smooth slabs brushed by tree branches. Thin just-over-hanging climbing leads to pockets, and on-angle smears.
First Ascent: Apr 2000 Dylan Morgan
 
6. SARGASSO SEAS 26 **** [7D,A]
Start 5 metres right of CONTINENTAL MARGINS. Sustained climbing with both powerful & balancy moves.
First Ascent: Oct 2000 Joffrey Hyman
 
7. TRITAN 24/25 *** [7D,A]
2m right of SARGASSO SEAS, just right of the tree.
First Ascent: Jan 2002 Joffrey Hyman
 
8. POSEIDON 25 **** [7D,A]
One metre right of TRITAN, really nice moves, finger friendly grips. Can be a bit easier if you are tall.
First Ascent: May 2002 Joffrey Hyman
 
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