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Guide for The West Face

Climb INDEX * Catherdral Area * William's Gorge

The crags on the main mountain after the out-of-bounds eagle nests. These are all on the western side. After the Eagle's domain you will get to Catherdral Cave wher the routes start. The main hiking path ends in William's Gorge but the crags continue southward. Access is as per North Face walking up through the Hillside boulders to the righthand side of the mountain and from there keep to the path at the base of the cliff. One can also drive all the way along the road until it ends, park and walk straight up to Williams Gorge, the right hand end of the West Face, there is a path heading up from where the road ends.
Catherdral Area
Follow the path from Windy Gap on the northwestern corner of the main face southward. You will pass the Eagle's domain and a short while further you will see the Cathedral Cave which is marked by a sign on the main hiking path. These crags start here and continue until you get to the William's Gorge sign.
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1. FRIGGIN IN THE RIGGIN 25 **** [7D,A]
Starts about 50m right of the main Catherdral Cave. It takes the steep corner with pockets and ends just below a tree growing out of the crack. Some really fun moves.
First Ascent: Oct 2001 Joffrey Hyman, Bolted by Russ Dodding & Joffrey Hyman.
 
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William's Gorge
This is the forested gully at the western end of the footpath. William's Gorge is stop number 5 on the map found in the barn. From the Tented Camp, follow the trail for about 10min. until seeing a sign to the Gorge. You can also blast up the hill and head right following the path at the base of the cliff until you see the sign. At the top of the gorge, the path turns left to the commercial abseil station.
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1. PAUL'S PROJECT 34? [8D,A]
Very hard line just left of THE GOLDEN TORC PROJECT.
 
2. THE GOLDEN TORC PROJECT 28? **** [12D,A]
Joffrey's project (Now Open) taking the golden pocketed streak up the face to the top, a huge dyno ends the long 24m route. Please do not lever the flake after the 4th bolt. Climb slightly left and the upward AVOIDING PULLING AGAINST THE HUGE FLAKE. Engineers we need help securing this monster!
 
3. THE MAGICIAN PROJECT 26? [1B]
Open project starting right of GOLDEN TORC, heading up just right of a small tree following an orange streak to the top.
 
4. STONE MONKEY 19 *** [N]
At the top of the gorge where the path hits the face it turns left to the commercial abseil station, here you should see a short overhanging open book about 4-5m high.
1. 18 (8m) Climb this open book. Friends #0 to #1, or Rocks #2 & #5 in the corner protect a wierd step out right to another crack, from which you pull up, then onto the arete. Rocks #7, #8, and #9 provide a bomber top-rope anchor, which is cleaned by down-climbing the arete.
First Ascent: Apr 2000 Dylan Morgan & Marianne Pienaar
 
5. RANDY ROOSTER'S RAPID ACCESS 15 [2B,N, R]
This is an access route to the top of the mountain. Scramble up the water streak or up over the small cave to the right of STONE MONKEY. Traverse to the right ignoring odd bolts placed in odd places. Scramble up to the right at a tree, there will be a small pinnacle to your right, continue a little further around a corner to your left until you see a bolt on a small slab of rock. Climb up here to your left to another bolt. Climb up close to the left arete to a tree. Scramble up slighlty left to the slabby rock. Continue past some rap chains (to exit) and into the vegetated gully. Follow this gully higher rather than lower to your left and exit on steepish terrain to the top.
First Ascent: May 2000 Dylan Morgan
 
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