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Guide for Long Tonk Boulders

Climb INDEX * Boulder A * Boulder B * Long Tonk Boulder - C

Drive back onto the dirt road towards the highway from the barn, take the first right fork and drive around the mountain. About 1km along the road park next to the road where there is a solitary tree on your left. You will see two big boulders on your right about 150m from the road.
Boulder A
The first round little boulder you pass on your way to the big Long Tonk boulder (C) including the slightly bigger boulder just next to it.
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1. POLISH SUNRAY V5/6C+ ***
Starts sitting with left on a low grip and right on a textured and sloping sidepull. Climb up and top out.
First Ascent: 2002 Daniel Vecchiato
 
2. ITALIAN FREAK EXPO V5/6C+ *** [R]
Starts just right of POLISH SUNRAY. Sit start on crimps, traverse right for about 1.5m and then climb straight up the crack and top out.
First Ascent: 2002 Daniel Vecchiato
 
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Boulder B
The large boulder in the valley to the left of the Long Tonk boulder with a steep northern side. The problems are on the back, south-western side.
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1. POX V2/5 **
Starts just right of the arete, starts on big jug, up left to a small pocket.
 
2. BUSHED V3/6B+ **
Stand start on good edges at head height, up right to a pocket and left up to another pocket.
 
3. SPATCHCOCK V8/7B ****
Start standing in a scoop with your right in an undercling pocket at head height and your left in a small gaston lower down. Move up to a pocket and finish on jug above the pockets.
First Ascent: Feb 2002 Shaun Harris
 
4. POCKET LAUNCHER V4/6C ***
Starts with right in a pocket, make a long move to a higher pocket and finish on good grips.
First Ascent: Ralph Brucher
 
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Long Tonk Boulder - C
This large boulder has most of its problems on the road-side and can be seen from the road. Many heuco like buckets make for some fun bouldering.
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1. WEGNEEM V9/7B+ ***
Low start on a sidepull for the right and shallow mono for the left up to heuco's and crimps. Top out via some rather loose rock. Kilan repeated the problem thinking it was open (error in guide) and named it WEGNEEM, Damian had never given it a name.
First Ascent: Damian McHenry
 
2. OPEN PROJECT
Sit start with undercling for left and right in a one finger pocket inside the heuco. Move up to an edge on the right, take pockets and heucos to the bush. The big heuco on the right may need to be off-route. Will go at between V7-V8.
 
3. DYNO PROBLEM V4/6C ****
Stand start with left in the undercling heuco and right in edge in heuco. Up and slightly to the leftt, dyno up to a pocket. A good mat and spotter for this one are essential!
 
4. WHAT WANDA WANTED V9-10/7C ***
Start as for C3 and traverse low to your right, do a hard move and finish up on C7.
First Ascent: Aug 2002 Kilian Fischauber
 
5. TEXAS STYLE V2/5 ***
Start standing. Use the big heuco, up to the pockets and finish on pockets to the right.
 
6. GONE SOUTH V3/6B+ ****
Start standing using big heuco, up left to a shallow heucoand up left to pockets. There is another variation of about the same grade where you head up right to a deep heuco and traverse right.
 
7. ANGORA V3/6B **
Start matched in pockets at waist level and climb up right to a gaston in a heuco, up rightish to a pocket and big jug. You can go higher with big mats.
 
8. NOTED V3/6A
Start with left on a sloper high up, jump up right to a knob/sidepull, left to an edge below 2 pockets and up right to a jug. This problem starts in a half-moon cutaway.
First Ascent: Feb 2002 Eric Riemann
 
9. CRUSH THE KIESH V3/6A+
Start 1m right of a half moon cutaway standing. Right hand on a square layback pinch and left hand on a shallow undercling pocket. Climb straight up and top out. A high ball!
First Ascent: Dave Drummond
 
10. BLEND V7/7A+ **
Start matched on standing height on a bad sloping edge, dyno left to good hold.
First Ascent: Shaun Harris
 
11. CHINESE PUZZLE V4/6C ***
Stand start up to good grips.
First Ascent: Shaun Harris
 
12. CHINESE PUZZLE TRAVERSE V6/7A *
Traverse in from the right. Start 2m to right on a good crimp, make a big move to jugs.
First Ascent: Shaun Harris
 
13. CHINESE WALL V8/7B **
Sit start if you can with your arms splayed below CHINESE PUZZLE TRAVERSE, starts with two sidepulls, up far to a big edge. Traverse to the top of CHINESE PUZZLE.
First Ascent: Feb 2002 Shaun Harris
 
14. FADED V1/4
 
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