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Guide for Hillside Boulders

Climb INDEX * Psychedelic Caterpillar Boulder * Eagle View Boulder * Cherry Charmer Boulder * Scorpion Face Boulder * Trespasser Boulder

The field of boulders up and right of the Spearhead boulder to the right of the forest when looking towards the main face. The topo needs some work still and the positioning of some of the boulders may be a bit out.
Psychedelic Caterpillar Boulder
A boulder about 60m west of the Quivering Heights boulder more or less at the same level and directly uphill from the Spearhead boulder. The east side has a hollowed out scoop section. There is a small bonsai on top of the boulder with some flat bushes in a hollow on the top of the eastern side. A mat & spotter are recommended.
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1. PSYCHEDELIC CATERPILLAR V1/4 **
Sit start below the obvious vertical pocket and move diagonally left to a jug pocket and straight up to top out.
First Ascent: Feb 2003 Dave Drummond
 
2. WHOM V1/4 ***
Start up the obvious hollow in the middle of the face. Big incuts to top out slightly left.
First Ascent: Feb 2003 Dave Drummond
 
3. ROLY POLY V3/6B **
Start standing with the left on an edge and the right in a two finger pocket, next to each other on the arete. Move slightly right and top out straight up onto a ramp, you can exit right from the ramp.
First Ascent: Feb 2003 Dave Drummond
 
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Eagle View Boulder
This boulder has a large blank face on the east side and a prominent arete that is rounded and stepped at the top.
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1. THE DIAMOND FACE OPEN PROJECT
An obvious line up the clean and high diamond-shaped face. Some loose rock will probably need to be cleaned off first.
 
2. FAITHLESS V4/6C ***
Climbs the blank face, the start is ok and then the holds become very hard to find. Quite high!
First Ascent: Sean Cremen
 
3. OPEN PROJECT
This line takes the arete and is very high! It may go at about V7/7A+ ?
 
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Cherry Charmer Boulder
The boulder is located about 250m up the hill from Spearhead, at -28deg 23.251minS, 29deg 16.729minE (WGS84/Hartebeeshoek94 datum).
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1. CHERRY CHARMER V1/4
The problem takes the overhanging groove at the left end of the down-hill edge. Although the top-out is high, the hard moves are low enough not to be high-ball.
First Ascent: May 2004 Dylan Morgan
 
2. OLIVE OVERTURE V0
Ascend the face 3m to the right of CHERRY CHARMER. Again, the upper sections are easy.
First Ascent: May 2004 Dylan Morgan
 
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Scorpion Face Boulder
This boulder has a prominent fist wide curved crack on its eatern side and has a steep northern side. It is about 150m uphill and slightly to the right (west) of the Amorph boulder.
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1. THE SCORPION FACE V6/7A ***
Start sitting with both hands on the slopy grip underneath the prow. Climb over the lip and top out.
First Ascent: 2004 James Roberts
 
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Trespasser Boulder
To the far right quite high up the hill. It is a large boulder closest to the fence.
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1. TRESPASS V2/5 ****
Climb the short south face on the left side of the boulder. Climb up using a sloper rail to a 'delicate' finish.
 
2. THE POACHER V3/6B+ ***
Climbs up just right of TRESPASS using small crimps and sidepulls. Tops out the same as for TRESPASS.
First Ascent: Andrew Pedley
 
3. CLASSIC HIGHBALL V6/7A ****
Climbs the high east side with a few bushes below. Some dynoing needed here.
First Ascent: Craig Reed
 
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