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Guide for Forest Boulders

Climb INDEX * Ribbed Boulder * Really Good Slab Boulder * Thunder and Lightning Boulder * Quivering Heights Boulder * Gem Boulders * Fontification Boulder * IBC Boulder * Pyramid Boulder

From the Spearhead boulders looking toward the mountain and slightly left (east) you will see several boulders scattered within a forest. At present there are no opened routes here but there is potential for some good lines, especially on the prominent Pyramid Boulder in the middle of the forest. A few boulders are developed with a fair amount of scope for new boulders. Also see the Hillside topo for boulders west of the forest.
Ribbed Boulder
From the Really Good Slab Boulder head north (downhill) for about 15m, on your right you will come to a boulder with rounded slabby ribs on its northern side. This is about 140m east of the Spearhead Boulder.
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1. LEFT RIB V0/3 **
Climb the left rib using the crack, the descent can be trickier than the ascent.
 
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Really Good Slab Boulder
This boulder is about 130m left (east) of the Spearhead boulder and a little uphill, follow the main path that leads east to the forest and Whale Rock boulders, it will be the first slabby boulder with a whitish smooth face you come to on your left a short distance off the path with a yellowood tree to its right.
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1. REALLY GOOD SLAB V1/4 ***
Climb the obvious slabby arete feature on the downhill side of the boulder, try not to use the holds close to the crack to the right.
 
2. SLAB ONE V3/6B
Just left of a blunt arete starting sitting. Use a sidepull for the left and a mono for the right, move up to good pockets and climb straight up.
 
3. SLAB TWO V3/6B?
Start just right of SLAB ONE standing, climb straight up to the right arete.
 
4. SUPER SLAB V6/7A **
Climb up the middle of the west face of the slab finishing just above a tiny bush but don't use the arete to the right.
First Ascent: 2004 Eric Riemann
 
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Thunder and Lightning Boulder
Walk uphill and to your left from the Spearheaed boulder for about 60m. Just next to the right of the forested area is a good boulder with a prow on its right side.
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1. WIND V2/5 *
Sit start right of a rock sticking out of the ground using a crimp climb up and top out.
 
2. ROARING 40'S V7/7A+ **
Sit start on a good flake and climb up to some slopers, diagonally left on the face and top out as for WIND.
First Ascent: Shaun Harris
 
3. THUNDER V4/6C **
Start sitting with a sidepull, up left to the slopers, right on underclings and then to a jug to the right topping out.
First Ascent: Sean Cremen
 
4. LIGHTNING V6/7A ****
Start sitting and 'hug' the arete, top out. A good problem. This problem needs a good spot.
First Ascent: Sean Cremen
 
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Quivering Heights Boulder
About 20m uphill and slightly off to the right from Thunder and Lightning Boulder is a Fontainebleau-style boulder with a tree on the left side of the north facing side.
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1. QUIVERING HEIGHTS V4/6C+ ****
Start standing, right on a roundish crimper and left on a sidepull. Reach up right to a thumb-catch and then left to the slopers and top out. The problem name says it all!
First Ascent: Guy Hubbard
 
2. QUIVERING BUM START V6/7A?
The sitstart to QUIVERING HEIGHTS. Consensus required.
First Ascent: Jun 2004 James Roberts
 
3. OPEN PROJECT
Start in the overhanging scoop and top out, this should be a classic. This may go at about V7/V8?
 
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Gem Boulders
Good quality rock just inside the forest on the western side not too far from the Pyramid boulder. Pass the Quivering Heights Boulder and head left into the forest at a small cairn, its about 8m into the forest from there.
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1. GEM V3/6B ****
One of the classics at Swinburne. Going between the two boulders you should see a prominent prow. Sit start on a boulder on the left side of this arete. Up right for a crimp, move out to the right on the left arete and go for the finishing jug.
First Ascent: Sean Cremen
 
2. OPGEM V1/4
Starts sitting directly opposite GEM with both hands in a small roof, climb up on the arete and top it out.
 
3. SEMI PRECIOUS STONE V6/7A **
Start sitting in a hole straddling the boulder. Match on a fairly good rail and then up right and slightly left.
First Ascent: Sean Cremen
 
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Fontification Boulder
From the IBC boulder go left and uphill about 5-10m into the trees until you see a small boulder facing west.
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1. FONTIFICATION V4/6C ***
Sitstart with your right on a good sidepull and left also on a sidepull below the prow. Go up to a sloper and top out.
 
2. OPEN PROJECT
About 1m right of FONTIFICATION.
 
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IBC Boulder
About 20m west of the Gem boulders and out of the forest is an obvious small overhanging boulder.
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1. IMPERIAL BATTLE CRUISER V1/4 **
Sit start on the downhill side and traverse right along the lip around the prow and then top it out at a small recess next to a tree.
 
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Pyramid Boulder
The huge pyramid shaped boulder in the forest, this boulder is probably over 30m high and has good potential for some great routes.
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