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Guide for Barnyard Boulders

Climb INDEX * Kite Boulder * Skittle Boulder * Bovine Boulder * Reservoir Boulder * Boulder I * Bolted Boulder * Conscious Boulder * Splishy Boulder * Impressionist Boulder * Perfunctory Boulder

Behind the barn in a southerly direction several boulders can be found, they are all fairly close to the barn. The Bovine boulder can be seen directly behind the barn, just left of the high ropes course. The Skittle is a bit further left and a little further away. The other boulders are just behind the big bluegum trees which run along the fence. There is a gate through this fence just behind and to the right of the high ropes course. The large Reservoir boulder can be seen here with a few smaller boulders behind and to the right, this is where the meat of the problems are. The Bolted boulder and the boulders to the left are visible from the gate, follow the path to the left to get to these boulders. There is still potential for a few routes on the Skittle and Kite boulders and still good potential for boulder problems on most of the boulders.
Kite Boulder
Walk along the road uphill from the barn, through a gate, past the dam on your right, past the farm worker's houses on your left. About another 200m on your left after a curve in the road you will see a big boulder on your left very close to the road. The two routes on this boulder are facing you as you approach the boulder. There is more route and boulder problem potential on this boulder.
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1. NO STRINGS ATTACHED V7/7A+ ****
Start sitting on a jug and an undercling on the left. Climb up left then right for a fair crimp, up to another small crimp and then to a big jug with the right.
First Ascent: Sean Cremen
 
2. OPEN PROJECT
Sit start then diagonally up left. This should go at about 8A/V12.
 
3. ONE FOR THE ROAD 20 [6D,A]
Follows a water streak on the side of the Kite boulder facing the local's house. There is a fairly sharp move from the start.
First Ascent: Jun 2001 Victor Rundle and Dylan Morgan
 
4. KITE RESCUE (MIDNIGHT MISSION) A1 [N]
On the arete nearest the road, easy free moves are augmented with good hooks in pockets and 8mm drilled holes. Descend via the single bolt with chain above ONE FOR THE ROAD.
First Ascent: Jul 2000 Dylan Morgan
 
5. AUKAMS RAZOR V5/6C+ **
Starts sitting as for MANGO GRUNT, climbs diagonally left and finishes as for FRUIT COCKTAIL. This problem also sports some sharp holds. Does not top out.
First Ascent: Eric Riemann
 
6. FRUIT COCKTAIL V4/6C **
A stand start using some rather sharp crimpers. Move up to a sloping rail and then up to finish on some big holds rather than topping out.
 
7. MANGO GRUNT V3/6B ***
Start sitting with a pocket (a little sharp) and then go straight up using the pockets. Does not top out, finishes on some big holds.
 
8. VO PROBLEM V0/3 **
A short but nice problem, does not top out.
 
Back to Top * Back to Swinburne

Skittle Boulder
This boulder looks rather like a fat skittle. When looking out from the barn towards the mountain it is the tallest boulder to the left close to the gate, the fence intersects the boulder on the left side. There are a few short lines on the east side, a few boulder problems and potential for a few routes on the western side. Topo included with Bovine Boulder.
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1. KYLA 14 [6D,A]
First Ascent: Jan 2003 Jason Bruning Bolted: Martin Bruning
 
2. BULGE 17 [7D,A]
First Ascent: 2003 Martin Bruning
 
3. JUMP UP 19 [6D,A]
First Ascent: 2003 Martin Bruning
 
4. NARROW ESCAPE 20 [6D,A]
Climb up slightly rightward to the right hand anchors.
First Ascent: 2003 Martin Bruning
 
5. TENPIN 17 [6D,A]
First Ascent: 2003 Martin Bruning
 
6. THE SWAMP MONSTER TRAVERSE V6/7A *
Start sitting with good holds about 1.5m left of the concrete pillar, traverse to the left to KYLA on sharp holds staying low.
First Ascent: Andrew Pedley
 
7. DANGER 21 ** [6D,A,R]
Take care clipping the third bolt and beware of the concrete pillar to the right.
First Ascent: 2003 Martin Bruning
 
8. EVEN MORTALS BOULDER V1/4?
Starts just left of the fence on the eastern side of the boulder. Climb up and then traverse left and down again.
First Ascent: Feb 2002 Roland Magg and Rory Lowther
 
9. CATALAN EXPOSURE V3/6A [R]
Start just right of the fence. Climb up and traverse a bit left to get to good holds. On the ledge traverse left and down. Take care on the upper section as there is risk of falling over the pillar of the fence.
First Ascent: Aug 2002 Xavier Texido
 
10. 3RD WORLD 23 * [B,A]
Start just below a large pocket in the middle of the face. Crimps and delicate footwork get you upto the next large sidepull. Follow the pock-marked face right then up. There are no bolts yet, just top anchors. Bolts may be added to complete the route.
First Ascent: Aug 2002 Miles Cone
 
Back to Top * Back to Swinburne

Bovine Boulder
This is a small boulder closest to the barn and directly behind it, towards the mountain. The high rope course is just to the right. Several good problems can be found on this boulder.
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1. ALLSORTS V0-V2 **
There are various fun and easy problems on the south side of the boulder climbing the well featured face.
 
2. AYSHIRE V0/3 **
Start sitting with both hands on a big ledge and top out.
First Ascent: 2003 Joffrey Hyman
 
3. BURGER ON THE HOOF V2/5 **
Sit down start with right hand in a shallow pocket and left on a sidepull up to a sloper on the right. Top out.
First Ascent: Dylan Morgan
 
4. THE PATTY TRAVERSE V4/6C
Sit down start as for BEEF SAUSAGE, traverse right and finish as for MAD COWS staying low.
 
5. BEEF SAUSAGE V2/5 **
Start sitting 1m left of the small scoop on some slopers for the left & right. Climb up the layback to the left.
 
6. MAD COWS V3/6A+ **
Start as for BULLDUST but climb up to the left and top out.
Variation: Left sidepull & right on a big edge, up as for MAD COW V2/5.
 
7. BULLDUST V4/6B+ ***
Sit down start in a small scoop on two edges, long move up right and top out.
 
8. THE FARSIDE V3/6B+
Start sitting on boulders at base, with left hand on sharp, shallow lipped pocket, move up to edge on the right and top out.
First Ascent: May 2003 Mark Millar
 
9. EAT MORE CHICKEN V5/6C+ ***
Starts sitting with a pinch for the left and edge or sidepull for the right, climb straight up past the little bush & top out.
 
10. FAT BASTARD V7/7A+ **
This problem starts just right of the middle of this side of the boulder more or less facing the Barn. Start on two flat edges and move up far right to the large pocket. The pocket is very sharp copious taping is suggested before lunging for it.
First Ascent: 2002 Shaun Harris
 
11. COW CORNER V2/5 ***
Climbs up the low arete from a sit start. Start low on a big flat ledge & smaller crimp slightly higher for the right and top out.
 
12. LOW FAT V0/3 **
Stand start to COW CORNER.
 
13. BULL V2/5 *
Sit start, climb up on sharp grips to top. This is about 2m left of CLEEROY.
 
14. CLEEROY V6/7A *
Stand start on the double underclings off the ground and move straight up pimply face 1.5m left of SPUNKY MONKEY. Apparantly rather solid at its grade.
 
15. SPUNKY MONKEY V8/7B **
Sit down start, left hand diagonal pinch/crimp, right hand small low sidepull, up to a diagonal edge and up slighlty to the right in scoop. The starting grip for the left hand has got smaller over time and thus is solid at its grade!
First Ascent: 1998 Ralph Brucher
 
16. UNFINISHED MONKEY BUSINESS V5/6C+ ***
A sit start about 1m right of SPUNKY MONKEY, start on a undercling low down on the right and on the higher starting grip for SPUNKY MONKEY. Climb straight up and top out.
First Ascent: 2002 James Roberts
 
Back to Top * Back to Swinburne

Reservoir Boulder
Walk out from the barn towards the mountain and slightly right. You should hit a path and a small gate in a fence just behind and to the right of the high ropes course. Ahead of you you will see a boulder with two small concrete reservoirs on the left. The little boulder to the right and two more small boulder up and to the right are included in this area. This is one of the best boulders at Swinburne with many good quality and varied problems from V0 to V9/10. This boulder was also known as the Animal House boulder.
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1. EL SILBIDO DE LUE V2/5 [R]
On the eastern side start over some bushes. Move upto 3 good holds. Climb up until the top. A highball of note!
First Ascent: Aug 2002 Xavier Texido
 
2. OPEN PROJECT
A highball just right of the right hand reservoir, some loose rock might need to be removed first, this will be fairly hard.
 
3. LONDON DRY GIN V6/7A ***
Start 2m left of DUNCE ON FIRE where the thorn bush is growing. Top out trying not to fall nto the thorn bush!
First Ascent: Aug 2002 Kilian Fischauber
 
4. DUNCE ON FIRE V10/7C+ ****
Start sitting just in two big pockets, climb up slightly rightward to some edges and up to the 'cups' of DUNCE and up as for DUNCE.
First Ascent: Aug 2002 Kilian Fischauber
 
5. DUNCE V6/7A ****
Start on two reasonable triangular shaped holds on the lip (some people may have to jump), swing your feet underneath you and jump to a flat hold and top out.
First Ascent: Shaun Harris
 
6. EBB V6/7A ***
Just right of DUNCE and about 1m left of the arete. Start matched on a good edge up high. Move up right to a pinch and top out. Take care on the top out, make sure you have a good spot.
First Ascent: Jan 2002 Sean Cremen
 
7. OPEN PROJECT ***
Stand start on the rounded arete with a pinch/ layback for the right and undercling for left, get right foot up high and long move to a good edge. This will go at around V10/7C+ and should be a classic.
 
8. OPEN PROJECT **
Start on the little slighlty steep and smooth face just around the corner from EBB. Start with left in a small sidepull and right in a small pocket, get your feet high and move up to a small sharp pocket and then to the top. It should go at about V9/10 7C.
 
9. OPEN PROJECT [R]
Starts on the broken piece of the Reservoir boulder, it is hidden behind bushes and a tree. Starts on a high crimp for the left, move up on the arete. A good spot for the rock behind is essential.
 
10. OPEN PROJECT [R]
Sandwitched between the main Reservoir boulder and its western part that has split off. Start between the two upto an edge and dyno to a comfy hollow on the lip. Be sure to spot away from the boulder, possibly a few mats are needed here.
 
11. HEKTIK V4/6B+ **
This is on the little boulder just in front and to the right of the Reservoir boulder. Start standing on the south-western arete and climb up slighlty right on the arete to the top.
First Ascent: Oct 2001 Greg Streatfield
 
12. SIGUE LA HUELLA V1/4
On the opposite arete to HEKTIK start over a bush just right of the footprint. Just one movement to the top.
First Ascent: Aug 2002 Xavier Texido
 
13. GRASS SNAKE V3/6A **
This problem starts off a flat rock in the middle of the small face. Stand start on good edges, move up to edges & slopers and top out slighlty leftward.
First Ascent: Dec 2001 Sean Cremen
 
14. MOONFACE V2/5 *
Start on the arete of the broken off section of the boulder on the left and move on up slightly left.
 
15. COME DOWN V2/5 **
Start about 1-2m right of the left hand arete of the boulder on some good edges climb to the top on good holds. This route is usually used as the 'come down' route when topping out on all the other problems.
 
16. MYSTERIOUS V2/5 **
Start just left and almost in the ex-small bush. Sit start on a low rail and up right on large holds, mantle and top out.
First Ascent: Jan 2002 Sean Cremen
 
17. LATERAL V3/6B ***
Sit start just right of an ever growing bush with your left on a layback and right on a good edge quite low down. Move up to a small edge with the right and crank up to some slopers to top out. There is a variation to start on the same grips and move diagonally up right to the big flat edge and top out as for VERTICAL, it is about the same grade.
First Ascent: Jan 2002 Sean Cremen
 
18. VERTICAL V1/4 **
Sit (or crouch if you are short) starting matched on a big flat edge and climb up to good grips and top out.
 
19. PFERTL PFANI V7/7A+ **
Sit start just left of MOONING MISS V with left on an undercling pocket next to a sloping edge or in the pocket to the right and your right on a sidepull, dyno up to a jug on the lip or use the intermediate edge.
First Ascent: Aug 2002 Kilian Fischauber
 
20. MOONING MISS V V9/7C *
Sit start with your right hand on a small crimp up high and left in a small and shallow finger pocket next to a gaston grip. Dyno up far with your left to a good hold slightly to the right on the lip above the crimp. This has one real hard move.
First Ascent: Paul Brouard
 
21. BLUE FUNK V6/7A ***
Sit down start, use two finger undercling/layback for right hand and mono pocket for left hand. Dyno to lip with your left hand.
First Ascent: Shaun Harris
 
22. DIE KRUPPS V6/7A ***
Start on the deep one finger pocket which has a small edge on its left side for the right hand and the two or three finger undercling/pocket for the left hand from a sit down start. Move left hand up to a pinch and top out.
First Ascent: Shaun Harris
 
23. LOW TIDE V3/6A+ ***
Start with both hands on a large sloper under the overhang and traverse far left on big holds.
 
24. REACH V4/6C ***
Start sitting on a big sloper as for LOW TIDE under the right side of the overhang, reach up far to your right to a good edge and top out.
 
25. GRATER V3/6A+ **
This problem is in the band of yellow lichen just right of the dead tree. Sit start on edges and traverse diagonally to the left on edges and pockets, top out on top of REACH.
First Ascent: Jan 2002 Sean Cremen
 
Back to Top * Back to Swinburne

Boulder I
This is the small boulder up and to the right from the Reservoir boulder, there are 3 problems on it at present. Boulder J is just off to the right again. Topo included with Reservoir boulder.
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1. NO NAME V3/6A+?
Climb up the face, exact details of this problem unknown.
 
2. NO NAME V4/6B+?
Start sitting, climb up the obvious crack in the face to the top.
 
3. NO NAME V4/6C?
Start just right of I2 from double undercling in small roof and climbs up the small arete in the face.
 
Back to Top * Back to Swinburne

Bolted Boulder
This is the small boulder to the left of the big Reservoir boulder when facing the mountain (south). This boulder was used for extensive bolt testing as can be seen on top of the boulder, not on the actual problems. Topo included with Reservoir boulder.
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1. HYDRAULIC V2/5 **
Stand start on edges and top out.
First Ascent: Jan 2002 Joffrey Hyman
 
2. FUSION V4/6C **
Sit start in incut edges on diagonal rail. Climb up right to an edge and then up the scoop to the top.
First Ascent: Jan 2002 Sean Cremen
 
3. CURIOUS NURSE V7/7A+ **
Sit start with your left on an undercling and a gaston for your right, pull left to ad edge on the face and top out straight up.
First Ascent: Shaun Harris
 
4. ENERGY V6/7A **
Sit start on two edges in overhang, move up with right to a sharp edge on the lip and top out.
First Ascent: Dec 2001 Sean Cremen
 
Back to Top * Back to Swinburne

Conscious Boulder
From the path that starts at the gate in the fence which is just above and to the right of the high ropes course head left after the tree, pass the Bolted boulder and then head uphill to two small boulders which have quite a bit of vegetation around them. The problems are on the larger lefthand boulder, the boulder on the right is too vegetated for problems at present.
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1. BUSH BASH V3/6B ***
Start standing on eastern side of boulder on a high good flat edge, move up left to a good edge and reach up high and top out.
First Ascent: Jan 2002 Joffrey Hyman
 
2. OPEN PROJECT
Start sitting just left of corner wih a pocket for the left and right, move up left to a crimp and top out. This could go at about V4/5.
 
3. AWARENESS V6/7A ***
Stand start on the corner using the 'prow' at head height and climb up left.
First Ascent: Shaun Harris
 
4. SUBCONSCIOUS V8/7B ***
Sitting start with left hand in undercling pocket below roof, right on edge above lip. Dyno with right to diagonal prow. Top out tending left. Possibly harder?
First Ascent: Shaun Harris
 
5. OPEN PROJECT
Sit start project to CONSCIOUS, will go at about V8/V9 or harder?
 
6. CONSCIOUS V6/7A ***
Start with your left on a small edge/crimp and your right on a big sloper both just above the normal head height. Move up with your right to a diagonal edge, sidepull and top out straight up.
First Ascent: Jan 2002 Sean Cremen
 
7. FACE IT V3/6A **
Start standing on a good edge at chest height on the little orange face, climb straight up on unusual grips.
First Ascent: Jan 2002 Joffrey Hyman
 
8. FACILE V4/6C **
Sit start to FACE IT starting on small diagonal edge for left and small crimp low down for right.
First Ascent: Feb 2002 Sean Cremen
 
9. SCRUNCH V3/6A+ **
Climb the arete just right of FACE IT.
First Ascent: Jan 2002 Joffrey Hyman
 
Back to Top * Back to Swinburne

Splishy Boulder
This little boulder is about 20m uphill and slightly to the left of the Conscious Boulder.
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1. OPEN PROJECT
Starts sitting under the overhang climbs up the the big sloping edge over the lip and to the left. Will be fairly hard! Needs good spotting.
 
2. SWOOSH V2/5 **
Stand start left on an edge and right in a pocket, climb up the arete and top out.
First Ascent: 2002 Joffrey Hyman
 
3. SWISH V3/6A **
Climbs up the arete from a sit start, left sidepull and right in a pocket up the arete.
First Ascent: 2002 Joffrey Hyman
 
4. SPLOOSH V2/5 **
Start sitting on big pockets for the right & left, up to a big edge and top out.
First Ascent: 2002 Joffrey Hyman
 
Back to Top * Back to Swinburne

Impressionist Boulder
Just south of the Splishy boulder hidden by bushes and trees.
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1. MONET V7/7A+ *
Sit start in front of tree in a pocket and edge, head up to a small pocket with left hand (about chest high) and then to a small sloping edge about 2030cm directly above. Reach far up right to edge on lip of roof and top out. Boulder on left is off limits. A scary route as the topout is dirty and loose and the tree behind you could be a problem! The stand start is about V6/7A.
First Ascent: Mar 2002 Sean Cremen
 
Back to Top * Back to Swinburne

Perfunctory Boulder
About 50m east of the Conscious boulder. The steep side faces the road.
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1. SLASHER V4/6C **
Stand start with a left sidepull/undercling at head height & right in slot. Top out.
Note: Marked as "CAS" on the rock.
First Ascent: 2003 Shaun Harris
 
2. CHOPPER V2/5
Stand start high in two pockets and top out.
First Ascent: 2003 Yiding Jiang
 
3. PERFUNCTORY V2/5
Sit start with left in a sidepull pocket & right in a pinch, top out.
First Ascent: 2003 Monique Harris
 
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